[d2e]

Like some others here, I'm still on my quest to find me an inexpensive yet well kept MB, preferrably a 300TD.

However, I've come across a '76 240D with a manual transmission and want to know, is it worth considering? Will the manual tranny in this one make it any more responsive than a 240 with an AT? I've driven a 300TD before but I haven't driven a 240D and I hear it's very slow. If it's worth considering, what should be the most I'd pay?

The owner has stated that everything works great on the car, but that the A/C needs charging and because it's been sitting awhile, the fuel tank needs cleaning. Other than that, all is assumed well. I'll be talking with the car's mechanic for years tomorrow morning.

There is another one I've found, an '83 300SD Turbo. I don't know though what the SD features over just a D/TD. The owner reported it being an 8 cyl? I thought these were only 5 cyl.

Thanks..

d2e

 

[d2e]

Anyone???

I spoke with the mechanic. They haven't serviced the car in a few years.

What I was told after this post by the seller was that the car has been stored for 3-4 years but that it has been taken out and started up from time to time. Prior to that, the owner says he has all service records and that he IS the original owner.

I'm sure this is why I was told the fuel tank would need to be cleaned. It has not had an inspection in that time as well.

Now I'm a bit more concerned because it's been sitting, but then again, should I really be concerned over this?

Not being a self-mechanic, what would anyone suggest I do or ask at this point?

Or, let's go back to the initial question - is this model even worth my time (and money)?

thanks.

 

[Ed Mclass]

RUST?

Was it inside? If there is rust in the trucnk area and under the front fenders, forget it! It will cost more to make it sound than it is worth. If it starts and runs, you will still have to go through the brakes, rotors, pads, possibly a master cylinder---$1,000 no less. This car might be worth $500 if it is running. Plan on some major expense to get it up to par. The 300 SD Turbo does have five cylinders. Comfort and economy as well. Most of these are looking at 200,000 miles and over. Weak point is the automatic transmission. $2,000 to replace. You at least have a large economical car when you are done. A good paint job can run between $800 and $1,800 depending on how much body work there is to do. Rust is a major concern on any of these older (15 years or more) models.

 

[d2e]

Hi Ed,From pics and what I was told by the owner after speaking with him, it only has ...

Hi Ed,

From pics and what I was told by the owner after speaking with him, it only has a small spot of rust on the rear wheel wells and that's all.

He says that he has put shocks on it and has replaced the starter and alternator both twice.

He said the only thing the car needs is that fuel tank cleaning and it's ready to go.

I don't know if this helps you to help me, but that's the most info I have right now.

Thanks for your feedback.

***Forgot something - he said he puts about a quarter tank of oil in it every 1,500 miles.***

 

[Ed Mclass]

$1,500 maybe

Similar cars with no rust and running are bringing $1,500, maybe more in cases of detailed and complete maintenance history and good paint. The biggest plus is the simplicity of the engine and the fuel mileage. You won't win any races but you will get there!

 

[d2e]

Ok. I was offering a bit lower given that I'd need the fuel flushed and I'm sure routine ...

Ok. I was offering a bit lower given that I'd need the fuel flushed and I'm sure routine maintenance work done (oil/filter change, trans fluid changed, etc.) I'm still trying to get more details about all that's been done recently before this car became for sale.

Looking for a car is hard work!

Any additional advice you have or anyone has, please share.

Thanks.

 

[dfwdiesel]

The big thing to worry about on the 114/115 body is
the blower motor, very time consuming...

The big thing to worry about on the 114/115 body is
the blower motor, very time consuming to remove and replace.

On 77 to 85 300D's can be done in an hour.

The 300D/240D tank is easy to remove and drain. I have even skipped doing that, put some fuel in it, then siphoned it out, replaced the filters and drove away.

A pal recently bought a 75 240D stick, is it nice.
A great feature of the early 240D is glow it as long as you want or need to, so the engine will always start. Later diesels have a relay that cuts off the glow, so a 20 degree day and or a worn motor can make later neglected engines a pain to start.

No worries about Mercedes automatic trans when there is a trusty stick.

If you get it change the brake fluid, you might make out fine, but can't tell without being there.
Not worth taking any chances where brakes are concerned.

The 240D you are looking out is very undervalued in the car market. But could last you so long being independently wealthy form skipping car payments alone is a possibilbity.


You may find a reasonable independent in your area for service. But you can learn fast. Basic work takes
very few tools a torque wrench suggested, a cheap socket kit, and wrenches, a set of valve adjustment wrenches, a Haynes manual or gray market factory cd from ebay.

Junkyard and online parts houses makes parts cheap.
If there is a local MBCA many new diesel pals.

And SD would also make a very good car, but a stick 240D with manual glow is bullet proof and cheap to operate.
John Gregg