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I can't find mine to verify the number but from pictures I found it is.(y)
 

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Yes - MB part 116 589 02 01 00 is a Hazet 329-4. The shape of the crows foot on that tool helps the 17mm spanner sit properly on the adjustment nut without slipping. This adjustment requires a good deal of force to open or close the gap.

I use a normal 17mm crowsfoot socket on a 3/8" extension. Alignment is very important to prevent damage to the adjustment nut. I like Hazet functionality, price is a little steep for me given the 2 times I've done this job in 9 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK, thanks for the replies. I bought a used one. I figured if I don't need it in the future I can probably sell it and get my money back. :D

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Has anyone made a DIY version of this? It is just a simple switch - press and it connects the two wires together?

Thanks, Andy

2605263
 

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Thanks. What is hiding under the insulation tape at the push button end? Looks like it is more than just wires to the button?
Nope... just wires to the button. A simple momentary switch. Push the button and hold to crank, let up to stop cranking. :)
 

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What year and model? If it's close to mine I can show you where to connect the clips on the right side fender and what to disconnect so you're not pumping fuel and driving the ignition while you crank. If that's what you intend to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That would be great, thanks! 74 450SL. I know I need to disconnect the cable from coil to dizzy. Also remove the fuel pump relay? Not sure where the "terminal 50" is yet.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanks to Brad's excellent annotation of the electrical diagram for the 450SL I believe I have found it:

2605299

Three connector terminal on right fender shelf below coolant reservoir. Looks like the switch needs to connect between the violet wire and the center red wire. Do I have this right?

Andy
 

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Yes sir, you have it - note the "50" next to the starter terminal that the 2.5 vi(olet or purple) lead connects to. You have properly traced that back to the terminal on your distribution block indicated by your red arrow.
 

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I'm not sure about your setup but on my '83 380 there is no need to remove the cable from the dizzy or pull the fuel pump relay... you simply remove the screw connecting the white wire to the 3 wires that are crimped together (see photo) on the terminal block mounted on the right side fender and then connect the remote switch from the white wire to the 12 volt source aft of the block (under the black flapper door). That's it... push the button and the starter motor will engage.
Don't drop the screw... it's a real PITA to find if you do.
MercRemoteStartSwitch.JPG
 

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Good luck with it!

I have a couple of those. But I have never found them useful when doing a valve adjustment. More precise to rotate engine using a wrench or ratchet breaker bar on PS pulley nut. (have to pull up on belt on underside of pulley to stop it slipping)
 
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