[Issanesh98]

Hi all,

I have a 2010 GLK350 with ~146k miles. I believe it has the early 722.9 revision with red fluid. I noticed the car clicks and binds when turning the steering wheel hard left or right. At first I thought it was the CV-axles, but those were fine. I jacked it up and found about half an inch of play in the front driveshaft where it meets the transmission/transfer case. After doing a little research, I believe I found the part that needs to be replaced but I think theres a lot of obscurity of the parts' availability and reparability. I wanted to ask if there was a place I can purchase this part from a well-known site/place, or potentially repair it. I see that there is an internal u-joint, however I am not sure if that u-joint is replaceable via snap rings or if its welded as one unit.

From what I researched online, it looks like I can replace this part without taking the whole transmission out, which would be a huge advantage and time saver

I appreciate everyones time for reading this and any advice you can give. Please dont tell me I need to replace the whole transmission, Im only asking for information on replacing/repairing this part. If all else fails, I know I will have to replace the transmission.

 

[10CL550AMG4matic]

Hi all,

I have a 2010 GLK350 with ~146k miles. I believe it has the early 722.9 revision with red fluid. I noticed the car clicks and binds when turning the steering wheel hard left or right. At first I thought it was the CV-axles, but those were fine. I jacked it up and found about half an inch of play in the front driveshaft where it meets the transmission/transfer case. After doing a little research, I believe I found the part that needs to be replaced but I think theres a lot of obscurity of the parts' availability and reparability. I wanted to ask if there was a place I can purchase this part from a well-known site/place, or potentially repair it. I see that there is an internal u-joint, however I am not sure if that u-joint is replaceable via snap rings or if its welded as one unit.

From what I researched online, it looks like I can replace this part without taking the whole transmission out, which would be a huge advantage and time saver

I appreciate everyones time for reading this and any advice you can give. Please dont tell me I need to replace the whole transmission, Im only asking for information on replacing/repairing this part. If all else fails, I know I will have to replace the transmission.

View attachment 2746297 View attachment 2746296

Mine is wore out as well, and I too have been trying to source a new/rebuilt Cardantic joint from a reputable retailer. There is only one company that keeps popping up. Maktrans.com. And if you go through the purchase steps on their site, it shows the visa and MC logo at the bottom of the page but only selectable payment options are PayPal and p2p money wire transfer.
and I’m just not comfortable sending 600$+ to some possibly 13 yo kid who made a website.
mine is the 722.9.386, with the double blind splines.
I have been squeezing as much grease as it will hold in to it once a month for a year now.
my issue is one of the caps has been destroyed and the needle bearings were floating around in there eating it up even more . What MB was thinking by creating an unserviceable yoke/ internally housed universal joint, way out of my ability to justify.
There are other sites that say they sell they sell them but the kits are twice the price.
Any insites would be appreciated,

 

[Triggerman]

Mine is wore out as well, and I too have been trying to source a new/rebuilt Cardantic joint from a reputable retailer. There is only one company that keeps popping up. Maktrans.com. And if you go through the purchase steps on their site, it shows the visa and MC logo at the bottom of the page but only selectable payment options are PayPal and p2p money wire transfer.
and I’m just not comfortable sending 600$+ to some possibly 13 yo kid who made a website.
mine is the 722.9.386, with the double blind splines.
I have been squeezing as much grease as it will hold in to it once a month for a year now.
my issue is one of the caps has been destroyed and the needle bearings were floating around in there eating it up even more . What MB was thinking by creating an unserviceable yoke/ internally housed universal joint, way out of my ability to justify.
There are other sites that say they sell they sell them but the kits are twice the price.
Any insites would be appreciated,

I took the chance and made the purchase with Makstrans. Sure enough it arrived in only 4 days from Poland and looks great!

 

[Triggerman]

 

[Triggerman]

I got it all done and it’s fixed perfectly! No leaks, no noises or vibrations. I highly recommend doing this job of you can grab your front drive shaft and wiggle it back and fourth pretty stoked!

 

[j.vail517]

I gambled the money today. I'll let you know if/when it arrives and see if I can add some feedback on maktrans.net.

 

[Triggerman]

I gambled the money today. I'll let you know if/when it arrives and see if I can add some feedback on maktrans.net.

So how did it go for you?

 

[j.vail517]

So how did it go for you?

Came from Poland faster than the bearing set from FCP. Quality seems good. Measured within 0.002” length wise. Didn’t make any other measurements. Finished job middle of the month. So far 3k miles on it and it’s quiet and solid. I’d call it a success and I’d gamble with maktrans again.

 

[Triggerman]

So this was a cool find. This is called a VMI (Vehicle Master Inquiry). Provided your vehicle was serviced by mostly 1 dealership, you "may" be able to talk that dealerships Service Advisor into sending you a VMI on your vehicle (These are apparently tied to the dealerships, MBUSA can Not get you this). If anyone wants to see what it took to keep a 327,000 Mile GLK 350 going over the last 11 years, here you go. Spoiler allert: Other than fluids, filters, and other maintenance items..Not Much!