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722.6 Transmission compatibility-- MAVA pls help!

11K views 36 replies 11 participants last post by  MAVA 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi All,

I have a 2000 e320 4matic wagon with 189k that is slipping out of gear when the trans gets warmed up. I have read everything about this trans and the possible issues, service and culprits ( 2months of research). All have been checked but she still slips and goes into limp mode. I think in my case, the clutches were affected by anti-freeze exposure and a rebuild or replacement is in order. What I cannot find is the what transmissions are compatible with my specific model of the 722.6

Mine is a 722.664 (w5A/300). I was hoping MAVA or anyone with info about what other 722.6 transmissions can be used. It must be 4-matic obviously. I have not been able to source a cost effective replacement trans of the exact model and the rebuild costs ($2500+ is not worth it for me to invest into this car. I am happy to source a replacement and swap the trans, but need to know all my options for compatible versions that I can use. In all my reading, MAVA was the only poster hat seemed knowledgeable in this area.

The more options I have the easier and more resourceful I can be in locating a good replacement candidate. I thank you all in advance. Please provide any info of the compatibility of the 722.6 transmissions if you have any.

For example if the e430/s500 - 4M - V8 trans will work, that would help me greatly. These are more available and were some of the better examples of the 722.6 as they came with various updated parts etc in the later years (up to 2003 if I recall). gear ratios are very clsoe in 1st & 2nd, the rest remain the same. Can i use this without issues?

Details of all the various models and or their difference seems non-existent in my research. This is odd being that this is a super common transmission model and made in some many variations. Any info is greatly appreciated.
 
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#2 ·
Only difference in regular 722.6 and 4matic is the transfer case at the back. Internals are the same.

You want to get the 722.6 out of a V6, doesn't matter what variety. C240, C280, E320, S320, ML320, whatever. Internals same between the two, gear ratio the same.

V6 and V8 have different clutch packs and internal gear ratio. AMG's are different.

If you want a no headache swap....grab a 722.6 from a ML320. It's the same. All ML's were 4matic.

EDIT: you may want to swap the transfer case from W210 to the ML trans.
 
#4 ·
Thank you both for the replies.

@Deplore- Thank you. That helps.

@illstplaya- The radiator was replaced right before I purchased it from the PO. No other info provided at the time of sale. Traces (2 Tbsp) were seen when the trans pan was dropped for service. It was not terrible, but was likely already flushed by PO so this was leftovers more than likely. The transmission slipping issue was the reason he sold it. I thought I may get lucky and troubleshoot it back to life, but I tried, and had others also did. All roads lead back to R&R. My buddy owns a shop and has scanned it for me for MB trans codes. The clutches need replacement and considering the miles she has, this is understandable.

Any other compatibility info is appreciated. This seemed to not be available. may help others as well. Thanks again!
 
#7 ·
Too bad you are so far away from MAVA and he must be busy with something else.
He rebuilds those transmissions and IMHO putting new clutches in yours will be better bet, than getting used transmission with unknown records.
But shipping in US has several options. ..............
 
#8 ·
Mike,

I have been up and down the state of California, but been in Los Angeles Area for the last year and I just ordered a new Nissans radiator because of you as I'm on borrowed time on my 220k mile radiator, so I do not want to blow up my 220k mile tranny yet!!!!! I do have a spare 4-matic tranny in my storage unit, but I would like to rebuild mine on my car soon before quits.

Honestly, I do not like to steer the wrong way if the document says so then that is ok, but I just like to take them from the same cars. Just like most say the ML M112 6cylinder is the same as the E class engine, but they are not when it comes to emissions in my state of Kalifornia...

What I would do first is swap out a valve body from any 2000-2004 6cylinder Mercedes car as the last result... Why don't you rebuild it? here on the forum? I got all the time in the world as I was going to school full time and now it has been cancelled... to help you on the forum..

When it gets hot and slips it is a seal in the body of the transmission or a solenoid or solenoid seal?? What gear does it slip on? Does it slip on 4th? Really try to drive it around with the max of 3rd gear if it slips intermittently it could be the frictions in the torque converter.

Here is the list of the popular self serve junk yards;



The junk yards that they pull the parts from, plug in you info and find one locally:


Let us know what is going on?

All the best,

Martin
 
#11 ·
Hi Martin

I have 02 e320 4matic. in Canada, 140k. vehicle went into limp mode, did total trans flush, worked great for month, limp mode again, changed conductor plate, same result. changed valve body, same result. found oil in tcm, cleaned it up, same result. as soon as tranny gets warm, back in limp mode, this time a whine is there. Current indy tech tells me its a pump in tranny and best to replace? way too much invested already, please help. Thank you Cheers Mark
 
#9 ·
I have a 2001 E320 4matic wagon with 176k on it. The torque converter was shot, so I've pulled the trans/transfer case and am in the middle of replacing all the clutches and both "sprags". It's neither magic, nor especially difficult. It is built and therefore comes apart in sections. I'm replacing the clutches in each section and then moving on. No big deal. I'll simply say this: if you can pull the transmission and transfer case out of the car yourself, then you certainly have what it takes to do the rebuild of the trans. The clearances between the transmission and the exhaust system, the front drive shaft, the floor sheet metal and control linkage are minimal and probably would be problematic if the trans is changed for a different model. I considered converting to a manual trans, but the notion of installing a third pedal disabused me of that notion.
FWIW: Portland Transmission Warehouse, Portland Transmissions had all the parts in stock.
 
#10 ·
I have a 2001 E320 4matic wagon with 176k on it. The torque converter was shot, so I've pulled the trans/transfer case and am in the middle of replacing all the clutches and both "sprags". It's neither magic, nor especially difficult. It is built and therefore comes apart in sections. I'm replacing the clutches in each section and then moving on. No big deal. I'll simply say this: if you can pull the transmission and transfer case out of the car yourself, then you certainly have what it takes to do the rebuild of the trans. The clearances between the transmission and the exhaust system, the front drive shaft, the floor sheet metal and control linkage are minimal and probably would be problematic if the trans is changed for a different model. I considered converting to a manual trans, but the notion of installing a third pedal disabused me of that notion.
FWIW: Portland Transmission Warehouse, Portland Transmissions had all the parts in stock.
A manual trans would be ideal!
 
#14 ·
Ohh do I hate that word OEM, it is a super loose word. My word is use ACTUAL MB Plate. Now in these times their is a glut of Chinese plates at the "OEM" level. The actual MB plate is like $240 USD at bottom level wholesale pricing.

My next level is to "Scope" the speed sensors once the tranny is nice and hot... That is the true test: this is bad plate
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Unless you want to keep opening the transmission. Scope the sensors. True transmission work is ALL troubleshooting, but it can be the solenoid seals not making a good seal. The seals are available. Run MB Xentry look at the fill-times of every clutch pack. Like this image.
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FYI, these transmissions last to 300K-400K MILES on average with conductor plate replacement every 120k-miles to 200k miles. Some 722.6's make it to 1/2 million miles. I'm at 228k Miles. My car did not go into full limp mode, but slowly hesitated to shift to 3rd where it was delayed for like 20 seconds, so I knew I was in the conductor plate zone. A bad conductor plate will be like this:
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A wierd problem that happens to these 722.6's is the shifter-arm-bushing. That will leave you "IN-Between" shift points. Look at that bushing.

Some cheap things to do:

A) Scope out the Speed Sensors to see if the plate works.
B) Do the Xentry Adaptation Filling times to see how worn the transmission is
C) inspect the presence of that shifter bushing at the transmission. It is a green bushing
D) Do you have any codes for us? Past or Present?

The oil pump problem, at idle the drivers side cooler line should empty out at about 30 seconds per liter or so. If it taking 1minute or two then you have pump problems.

Now another twist, if you cooler section of your radiator quits it will put you in this quasi-state, and for that you need to do some more testing by blocking out the cooler, and attach a temporary cooler and drive like that for a little while. You may need to flush-out the tranny, and start with fresh fluid.

I'm not parts changing kinda person. I troubleshoot problems. Sometimes it is not glamorous, and take TIME, but I get to the WHY... My techniques are not feasible by some shops as they do not do that. One does not get good at anything on a hunch. I investigate WHY...

Martin
 

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#15 ·
Hi Martin, again thank you for the reply! I also prefer not to replace parts when troubleshooting can be done. I am waiting to hear back from another Indie who may have the diagnostic equipment you suggest. This is way over my head, so sadly have to fork out the going rate to troubleshoot these problems. Will be back at ya when I can find a proper tranny tech who knows what you are talking about.
I do not have a mb dealer in my small city, and the tow charge would be huge in itself, so trying other means. More soon, thanks again
 
#17 ·
Xentry in MB(just wrote about this) cost about $500, and the scope you can buy one for $50 to $100...

You can learn, because I learned it on my own, and I was not born with the traits of transmission work. I'm electronics guy by trade, and venturing in to programming ALL on my own....

This adaptation thing others are doing it too.

Load your self with some sets of ramps, and tools. Everything is possible from this forum.

Martin
 
#22 ·
Pepto bismol looking fluid is sign of coolant contamination.
Wouldn't coolant contamination look more like creamy coffee? To me that fluid looks more like it's full of clutch materials. Shedding clutch materials looks very cloudy, and yes the reasons the clutch would shed like a husky is.... Coolant contamination.

I say that because I don't know what pepto bismol is.

Edit: Google shows pink fluid.
 
#23 ·
Mark,

Everything Witek said is right on...

A)The only bit of salvation is replace that radiator like yesterday.
B) Do a fluid exchange where you disconnect the drivers side cooler line,
C) Attach a hose to the cooler line to a graduated clear paint bucket.
D) Attach and Fill the pan up. Use the old filter too. Fill to the normal dipstick reading.
E) Start the car to empty three liters only then stop the engine
F) Fill the pan with three liters
G) Repeat step E
H) Repeat step F
I) Repeat E
J) Repeat F
K) Repeat E
L) Repeat F
M) Repeat E
N) Repeat F by now all the fluid should have flowed out.

Remember do this with the new radiator installed. I use lower cost transmission fluid to do this compatible with the 722.6

This is you last ditch effort to save your tranny. Many times it works, and many times it does not.

The engine oil leak that is super common on these cars. You just need a rear main seal. Mine was pissing oil at 100k Miles. IF you do replace the transmission, replace the rear main seal too on EVERY TRANSMISSION JOB....

Your radiator did the damage here....

The copper flakes is okay. Normal to see it on this transmission.

Martin
 
#26 ·
A whining sound isn't proof that your transmission pump is done. In January 2019 I had a whining sound from my transmission. Trans went into limp mode at a red light and a few miles down the road I got a check engine light. It was P0700 and 705. These codes usually mean a bad conductor plate.

But since my transmission was making that whining sound I decided not to get a conductor plate. Instead I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, cleaned the magnet, replaced pan gasket, replaced drain plug gasket, and replaced the pilot bushing. Also had to open up the TCU and clean out the transmission fluid that was about half way full in the TCU case. Put everything back together and cleared the ECU codes and I also cleared the TCU codes. Car drove great for 2 months with no issues. Whining sound was completely gone.

Fast forward to March 2019, I am on my way to a job interview and car goes into limp mode in the middle lane of a busy 3 lane road. End up having to cancel the interview, and slowly driving back home. Whining sound was louder this time, transmission would not stay in second gear. It would just go into neutral every 10-15 seconds. Turning ignition off and back on again would buy me another 10 seconds, and I had the same codes again like before.

This time I replaced the conductor plate, transmission filter again, pilot bushing again and transmission pan gasket and drain plug gasket again. Cleared the codes and I've had no issues since then. The car is good and the whining sound was gone when I started the car after replacing everything. I don't know why I had a whining sound from the transmission pump when all I had to do was replace my conductor plate. But don't automatically assume the transmission is shot.
 
#27 ·
A whining sound isn't proof that your transmission pump is done. In January 2019 I had a whining sound from my transmission. Trans went into limp mode at a red light and a few miles down the road I got a check engine light. It was P0700 and 705. These codes usually mean a bad conductor plate.

But since my transmission was making that whining sound I decided not to get a conductor plate. Instead I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, cleaned the magnet, replaced pan gasket, replaced drain plug gasket, and replaced the pilot bushing. Also had to open up the TCU and clean out the transmission fluid that was about half way full in the TCU case. Put everything back together and cleared the ECU codes and I also cleared the TCU codes. Car drove great for 2 months with no issues. Whining sound was completely gone.

Fast forward to March 2019, I am on my way to a job interview and car goes into limp mode in the middle lane of a busy 3 lane road. End up having to cancel the interview, and slowly driving back home. Whining sound was louder this time, transmission would not stay in second gear. It would just go into neutral every 10-15 seconds. Turning ignition off and back on again would buy me another 10 seconds, and I had the same codes again like before.

This time I replaced the conductor plate, transmission filter again, pilot bushing again and transmission pan gasket and drain plug gasket again. Cleared the codes and I've had no issues since then. The car is good and the whining sound was gone when I started the car after replacing everything. I don't know why I had a whining sound from the transmission pump when all I had to do was replace my conductor plate. But don't automatically assume the transmission is shot.
Thank you sharing that experience. Your symptoms are very similar to mine. I did a flush, conductor plate as well, also cleaned out tcm for oil, same same
 
#29 ·
Mark,

Sorry, age means nothing. My father is still digging ditches at 80, demolition, and remolding homes. His younger workers just cannot cut it. He just started doing this in the last 15years. Same with me in the last 15 years I started messing really with these cars. I was a " pay for service" kinda guy. The more you play the better you get. This portal here, and the people here will help you. Plus you will fill the mind with knowledge too-It does a body good!!

Saying what I said above. I would take the car back. Get your self another(if you need another). Work on this one slowly. Acquire the basic tools.

The picture of the Mocha-Oil pan. That is not an oil pump. The copper particles on these 722.6's only come from two places that have nothing to do with the pump-very normal. Your radiator did this from a damaged cooler section, Now you can bypass the cooler section too, but you can do a fluid exchange(get rid of all the fluid in the system). Use this fluid . Get 4 or 5 of them.

What I think what will happen these guys will sell you a bill of goods with a new transmission, and find out that it will whine again. The fluid will come out Mocha again,

One super important thing many transmission Re-builders do is test the old fluid for coolant contamination. You can do yourself and us to see who is dead wrong and cheap cheap to do. If your guy refuses, find a new repair shop... Find a transmission shop not a MB repair shop...

Do the coolant test it is the best money spent. Get the fluid your self from the car as they may be liable to give you another car fluid.

Martin
 
#35 ·
Yea, when any fluid looks like mocha with milk on ANY car that is the give-away. You can save it when it first happens, but time is of the essence...

I changed my radiator at 220k Miles as I did not want to go through that no-matter how much transmission knowledge I have. I changed my radiator as Preventative Measure. Working on someones car with similar mileage.

Now, a word of wisdom. Change your rear main seal on the engine, and change your torque converter seal too. You will not have oil leakage.

Martin
 
#36 ·
Hey Martin,

I have a 2000 E320 4matic 200k miles with a 722.664. It started making a whining sound (kinda like a super charger). Super hard shifts, manually have to keep it in 2-4th gear to drive it. First time it happened it only really whined on acceleration. Check engine light came on + p0700/p0715. I replaced conductor plate/connector plug/oil/gasket/drain plug. It worked great for a day (no whine or shifting issues) but then on my way to work it just started shifting super hard downshifting and then driving from first. Whining was now just a constant sound until at a dead stop. Not sure what to do now. Mercedes said they don’t work on them 7500 to replace or a reman costs 2500 from a third part shop. The car isn’t worth anything according to kbb so don’t want to put a lot of money into it. I thought I could rebuild it myself but after looking at the forums doesn’t seem like I should need to. I’m pretty handy but don’t know how to troubleshoot things as I’m not a tech so need help on that side. If I have instructions/general knowledge on what needs done I can’t figure it out.
Thank you
 
#37 ·
@6host

Welcome to the forum. The world has changed and I am super busy like never before.... The last ditch effort is to change the whole valve body(solenoids and all) for any(CLK/ML/C/E) 2000-2005 MB Pick later year involved in a crash if you can from the junk yard..



Martin
 
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