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63 220SEb engine dies!

1604 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Captain Scott, 
S
I am stumped trying to figure out what is wrong. I can be casually driving along on a mild day in the level city for about an hour and then when I come to a stop the engine rpm starts a low cycle and then stalls.If I immediately restart, it runs like it is choking and then stalls again. After a few more restarts it finally quits and won't restart. When I waited for a few minutes and restarted, it ran perfectly again for another 10 minutes as I safely got all the way home. This is a repeat of a similar incident on a previous trip. The car's fuel tank has been boiled out, the tanks bung strainer has been cleaned, a new fuel pump installed and checked for proper pressure and flow volume, the fuel return line has been blown and verified to be clear, the engine mounted fuel filter was inspected and shown to be absolutely clean,the injector block screens cleaned, the injectors check for proper spray,and the vacuum advance works properly. When the engine is operating normally, it hums smoothly without skipping a beat.I've lost confidence in going anywhere in that I might not be able to return home! Any ideas?

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M
Yummy,i love your car![8D][8D]
Now for the cure!,have you had the igniton done?.If the car is playing up,always always(!) start there.
I would say that you are running the original coil and it is breaking down internally as it gets hot.
The best bet is to ditch the whole points deal and replace them with a pertronix ignitor,along with their coil and replace the ballast resistor with a new one.With the Pertronix you won't know it's in there so if you are into showing your lovely car no one will know.[:)]
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S
I appreciate the suggestion but I installed a Pertronix module long ago along with their coil. You did bring my attention to the coil which poses a question. Is the body of the coil supposed to be "hot"? I did see a trace of oil at the seam of the coil which I assume shouldn't be. I think I'll reinstall the original coil to see if it solves my problem.

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M
If there is oil around the coil,it is definately sick.i would try a good coil as a test,if that cures it buy a new pertronix coil.What i have done many times ,to save time is aim a hairdryer at the coil with the engine running.this simulates the sort of heat experienced under the hood while you drive.Coils will run warm ,but not hot and certainly not hot enough to burn.
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S
Problem solved!

The suggestion to troubleshoot the coil was right on. The Petronix coil has a lifetime warrantee. I called them and they immediately sent a replacement. The new coil also erased the slight miss at high between 3500-4000 rpm. I am a happy person again.

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doc_rage
Hot damn, that car looks good from most every place. Love the way that engine looks!
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M
Hey Doc ,I saw her first ![8D][:D]
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S
Aftermarket coil vs. oem with risistor?

Now that I have solved my ignition problem, can I expect the replacement Pertronix coil to fail again due to overheating? When I replaced the OEM Bosch coil with the 40,000 volt 1.5 ohm Pertronix Flame Thrower, I removed the white resistor block that was in line with the positive post of the coil. Is there too much current going to the aftermarket coil without the resistor? I would be interested in the experience of others that have made this same Pertronix module conversion, as to whether they have left the resistor in place or eliminated it. During my trouble shoot procedure, when I reinstalled the OEM Bosch coil without the designed/required resistor, the engine would miss slightly. Immediately installing the Pertronix would eliminate the miss.

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M
The idea of the resistor is to provide the points with 6 volts instead of 12-14 volts ,thus preventing them from burning prematurely,.No points, no resistor needed.I use a pertronix on my Beater 230 (115 engine,450,000 klicks !)and it still has the resistor,doesn't seem to make any difference and the ignition is the same design as your six cylynder.It seems as though what ever works is best.[:)][:D][:D]
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C
ICU/Tach wiring after Pertonix conversion

I'm not sure how to wire the Ignition Control Unit after putting in the Pertronix kit? I know it isn't needed, but without certain connections, the tach does not get its signal.

She runs great now, but without ICU being in the loop, I have no tach.

I have seen posts on folks who have successfully made this conversion, but there has been no mention of having to give up their tach. So I assume they have figured out how to wire it up.

Does anyone here know how?
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