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2001 ML270CDI
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, the engine swap has been in progress for a bit over a week now, and the workshop is almost finished, so I thought I'd give you a progress report so far...

First of all, the new, used engine wasn't exactly "as advertised" - it bore marks of frequent contact with tools and signs of being well used...

The condition of the engine was discovered a bit late in the process, so it was a bit late to do much with it at this time. I know - I should have gotten a compression test and engine evaluation in a bench before going on with the project, but the engine were supposed to be good so....

Anyhow. The project suffered a few setbacks due to wating for parts. I needed a few extra parts for the exhaust, and some parts for the starter motor. The pinion drive on the starter motor had a crack when they pulled it, so a new one was needed. Also one of the outlets on the oil cooler was pretty messed up by one of the PO, so they had to put in a fix on it. Since the oil cooler was aluminium, they warned me that this was only a temporary fix, and that I should think about getting a more permanent fix on it. I'll either trawl the wreckers for a decent specimen or buy a new one (~$750 in parts) - I haven't decided what to do, yet.

All that remains is the mounting of the flexible hose from the air filter to the turbo and some finishing work on the exhaust system.

The finally got the engine going yesterday, and they gave me a report on it. The engine starts ok, but gives out some black smoke at first and doesn't really get going until the turbo cuts in. It has some signs of the compression not being all it should be..

Now what the guy at the workshop said, was that since the engine has been sitting on a pallet for 6 months at my place (and god knows how long it has been sitting at a shelf at the parts store where I bought it...), so it could be that the piston rings were stuck a bit and it would get better after running for a while.

Anyway, we agreed that they should finish it, and I should pick it up on monday and drive it for some time before seeing if any aditional work needs to be done with it.

I'm thinking about using it as it is for a few monthts while checking oil levels frequently, and then seeing about an engine rebuild in the fall. That job'll run me at least $3000... [V] I'm figuring I'm going to need new piston rings, head gasket, bearings and some of the other gaskets. I just hope the pistons themselves are okay...

Johan-Kr
 

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1980 LWB 280GE
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Good to hear of your progress!

We have it on good authority from our friend Warren T. that the oil cooler isn't really requierd and especially if yours is suspect at all, it's okay to just remove it and plug the ports where the lines leave the filter housing. Something to think about. Look around recent threads on the 617A.

-Dave G.
 

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230 G BGS 300G TDI
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I second that and maybe even use the space for a wet intercooler, I hope you switched flywheels for a G 300 and clutch? The 123 ones dont last too good in a G especialy if worked hard. do you have a product called redex over there, if you do its worth pulling the injectors and pouring a few ml down each bore, it frees off rings and valves, what I used to know in the UK as a dealers de-coke[:)]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well - I have an auto tranny, so I didn't need to fuss about with clutch problems.

Thanks for the suggestion about redex - I'll look into it. One of my customers is a car accessory dealer. I'll ask him if he knows about it.

Is it Redex Engine Flush, by the way ? http://www.honeywell.com.au/business/holts/redex/ref.html

I've found at least one dealer in Redex products in Norway on the internet, so there's bound to be more.

I'll think about the oil cooler. I was thinking of adding an intercooler anyhow, so that suggestion makes sense :)

Johan-Kr
 

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230 G BGS 300G TDI
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Thats the stuff, its very good. didn't realise you fitted an outo, is that out of the 123 or 300gd?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The car has always had an auto.

The old one was ailing (switching back and forth between gears, as well as brass filings in the oil pan during oil change on the tranny), so I got hold of a new, used one from a 280GE and put that in at the same time.

By the way - isn't there something you can add into the fuel tank to give a similar effect as the redex ? I see STP has something called a "Fuel injector cleaner" http://www.stp.com/fuel_sc_fic.html - will that do the trick ?

Also, I see that STP also has something called "Engine Stop leak" http://www.stp.com/oil_stop.html, which is supposed to "Stop minor oil leaks, Rejuvenate seals and gaskets, Fortify oil with viscosity enhancer". Has anyone tried it, and does it really help with oil sweating from worn gaskets and such ? I'm expecting this engine of mine to sweat oil... [:)]


Edit: Whoops - Looks like the fuile injector cleaner is for gas engines. They do have an injector cleaner for diesel engines, though: http://www.stp.com/fuel_deisel.html

Johan-Kr
 

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STP and REDEX are similar but make different claims, but for an initial degum of rings and valves the method I described with REDEX is very efective, but when you start it do so on some waste ground, becuase the crap will come out of the exhaust, with injector cleaner, my take on it as follows, how much fuel do you have in your tank when you put it in full half full nearly empty?? what I do is remove the fuel filter, fill the casing with fuel conditioner, replace filter casing and filter carefuly and, Start your engine, It will do no harm but a hell of a lot of good, make sure no one is behind the truck when you start up because once again the crap will fly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ah - so I don't need to actually pull the injectors, then... [:)]

I'll give the fuel filter method a try, then...

Johan-Kr
 

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85 300GD 83 300TD
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I have had very good results with LubroMoly Diesel Purge. The technique I use is to fill a fuel filter with the stuff and install it. Purge the air and allow the product to fast idle throught the injectors. This product works and is approved by Mercedes. I think it should be availabe where you live or via the internet.

-Dai
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I found a similar product I'm going to try. I'll report back to you what happened [:)]

Johan-Kr
 

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Fenalaar - 4/1/2006 8:29 AM

I found a similar product I'm going to try. I'll report back to you what happened [:)]

Johan-Kr
This product is STP or same other brand?

Vasco
 

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Lubromoly

Just my 2 cts, but putting the LM in the filter lets most of it go back to the tank.

Especially in a case where there's known injector trouble, I'd follow the package directions to make sure the LM is burned at full strength a couple times. Once the system is clean, the filter method is a good way to keep a little bit in the system on a regular basis to keep things tip top. I'd probably still run it full strength a couple times a year. Maybe at valve lash time, just so I'd have a way to remember when.[:)]
 

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Very good point, Dave. I would use the siphon it out of the can method for a sick, smoking, system. I don't like to do that for typical service because it is a sure way to get a bit of lint or dirt into the fuel. It is time consuming as well and the fill the fuel filter method works. You can hear it hit the injectors; the typical nailing these motors make quiets instantly. The amount that cycles through the system has a solid impact on smoking and performance for the machines I work on. Your milage may vary. It is a great product.

-Dai
 

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Great point

Cleanliness is next to godliness when working with the open fuel system like that. That must be part of why they tell you to use a glass jar. But I think you're right. Some additional precautions even over and above that are probably in order. Maybe having a glass tube to insert into the ID of the cigar hose or something. Maybe even making a dedicated jar where connections are made external to a jar cap and making sure fuel only contacts the ID of the fuel lines and such....

More food for thought.

Right now I'm engaged in grosser activities. Sawzalling the body of the parts G into dumpster sized pieces. [:(] The rear side doors were okay to save, and all the glass and hardware stuff like latches and window actuators (manual) were fit for saving, but the body itself is over all junk. Now I just have to find some place to dump it all.

-Dave G.
 

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If you fit a 8mm ball valve in the RETURN line you can simply do the tratment with neat mix as long as the pump is bled.

You can buy screw on filters with awater trap built in the base with a simple pipe outlet so you could do an intravenus or an enama! to cure the constipation.
One to try being filter WK842/2 by MANN which may direct fit.

A blocked return line will not cause a problem.

The Uk parts stores and ebay are full of diesel cleaners, my favorit being one on a tall red alloy bottle that appears to be multi labled and stinks to hiheaven, sometimes badged by STP, or in the UK Bradville.

This does work well and appears to be best used on along continuous run of altering speeds.
The mix is very detergent and will increase the oil consumption to some degree. Have used in 616/617/601 engines over about 450,000. Do an oilchange soon after to best effect.
 

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What about mixing same Vegetable Oil in the diesel? Same one told me that the oil will dissolve the deposits in the diesel tank and that cleans the fuel lines.
 

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Regarding the veg oil bit.
I do occasionally run a supermarket fuel mix at about 5-8% no more.
Tick over and engine noise appears less with slightly raised t/o speed ocouring.Better combustion or raised combustion pressure?.
Exhaust emmisions visually seem better but that isnt always the best stand.
The sunflower oil gives good results with no hesitancy or filter lag.
Again the use of injector cleaner provided not overdone shouldnt hurt. Any cleaner will scour but if it doesnt shift all the residue/carbon deposits the result could be negative especially injector seats.

David
 

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RE: Good to hear of your progress!

Hipine - 4/3/2006 8:35 PM

We have it on good authority from our friend Warren T. that the oil cooler isn't really requierd and especially if yours is suspect at all,
-Dave G.
Dave - does this also apply to the OM617 ( non Turbo)?
Would be keen to bypass the cooler as on an older engine the risk of failure is faily high. BTW is the cooler suject to the full oil( _+ 5 bar) pressure ?
PEter
 

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4x4rancher - 4/3/2006 8:53 PM

I hope you switched flywheels for a G 300 and clutch? The 123 ones dont last too good in a G especialy if worked hard. [:)]
IS there a difference between W123 and W460 300D flywheels? I have a W123 300D engine in my 300GD and have a strange clutch problem - push all the way on the clutch pedal and you get a metal scaping noise at related to engine speed. Perhaps crankshaft endfloat is not correct?
PEter
 
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