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Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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LOL, well now you've found the issue. At least the car drives okay now?

Confirm the 5th gear thing, see if you can consistently replicate it.
 
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Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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And to answer your question, yes rear window regulators go out like candy.

They're made out of noodles, and they have consistency of noodles as well.

All of my 210's had rear regulators done at some point, and my E300 is now on the 2nd rear left regulator. But eh, it was only $20 for 3-4 years longevity, I'll pay that.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
And to answer your question, yes rear window regulators go out like candy.

They're made out of noodles, and they have consistency of noodles as well.

All of my 210's had rear regulators done at some point, and my E300 is now on the 2nd rear left regulator. But eh, it was only $20 for 3-4 years longevity, I'll pay that.
yeah pretty funny issue.
did you use mbz regulators or aftermarket? I see the Meyle ones on autohaus for like $30.

I dont understand why the window fell out of its track when it went into the door. Im worried that will keep happening.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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I just buy chinese aftermarket bullshit regulators. Only $20, and they last about the same length as the original regulators.
 
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Discussion Starter #65
I just buy chinese aftermarket bullshit regulators. Only $20, and they last about the same length as the original regulators.
youve got it all figured out man lol.
car needs a water pump and accessory drive anyway so ill try the meyle regs out.

drove the car back to sf just now and stuck it back in the garage because its got an open rear window haha. it went into 5th just fine. feels good, plenty of power. maybe the shaking at low speed acceleration is an alignment issue, which it still needs.
 

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93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
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as far as the transmission, it did the oil pump seals and replaced a bent friction in the K1 clutch. the car is all back together but doesnt drive correctly. the accelerator pedal is really soft, does very little, as if the engine has no power, and the car wont shift in low gears until you lift off the pedal once the fluid is hot. it will just rev, wont really speed up or shift. it has no power, wont go over 25 or 30 mph and if you try to climb a hill it just revs and feels like its slipping. i havent gotten it past 3rd, it wont go fast enough.

it could be a whole range of things, but if its something I messed up its probably that there is another bent friction somewhere or i put the outer oil pump gear in upside down and it isnt building enough pressure. could also be the engine.
it goes into gear fine and shifts somewhat normally if youre barely touching the throttle, but wont make any power or go over around 30mph.
i have a video i will post here
Sorry for the late reply as I was in the heat of the moment working on two homes in these last two weeks trying to beat the rain, and no time to get on the internet. PM me and we can exchange phone numbers if you need deeper level help.

The continuous black fluid is not a great sign on any transmission as most of the time it is excessive friction wear. On these transmissions the clutch packs that wear the most is B1, B2 & K3.. B1 is in the front of the tranny, and wears-out if you are a lead-foot driver, or you own a AMG as what do people do with AMG's? Race..... B2 and K3 are at the back of the tranny and are used in the low gears, but K3 is common with all gears, so it get the MOST wear of all the friction packs. I think you have very WORN frictions in those three clutch packs.... See truth table....

722.6-Gear Truth Table.jpg
722.6-Clutch n Gear Layout.jpg


Now, stuck on 3rd gear can be a valve in the valve body... You can manually go through the gears to pin point what gear you are stuck at, but 3rd can be a valve, but it can be a solenoid that is electrically okay, but mechanically will not open, but that you can swap with the other solenoids like one one does a ignition coil pack miss-fire on a engine. Here is a fix on the valve body.

I will have to find the link on another computer...

Not enough pressure, just disconnect the drivers side cooler line at the radiator, and watch how much time it take to fill a calibrated new disposable paint bucket. Use a one-gallon bucket. Empty two quarts with the engine running, and each quart should take 15 to 30 seconds. It should not take no 1min or 2min a quart. Then stop the engine. Pour the ATF back into the transmission.

You may be driving the C240, and put the 4Matic on back-burner for another day. Here is all the tranny literature if you want more-data on these trannies...

Index of /docs/mb/transmission/722.6

Hope this helps.

Martin
 

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93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
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PS... What kind of welder are you using, and the model number tooo...

I like your exhaust DIY... No one does it here on the forums

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Hey MAVA it looks like you missed this reply where I figured out the cause of my transmission issues after I put the car back together...

I got to the house today planning to smoke test the engine. I thought I might get lucky and it would be a vacuum leak and I wouldnt have to pull the trans.
I removed the airbox housing from the MAF and this fell out..
IMG_2201

the paper towel I had used to protect the maf while the intake was off the car... LMFAO
I was in there the whole time being sucked up against the maf screen and restricting flow into the intake. Im impressed the car did as well as it did.
62630708901__F0B85AAD-42E3-40BB-9663-90A3468EF2A8 2
a nice imprint in the towel from being sucked against the screen. problem solved.

the car drives well now, as well as it ever has. There is no more howling noise on the freeway, which I suspect was the nearly empty front diff. It shifts alright too.
I cruised home from San francisco to Oakland in it.
It wouldn't shift into 5th. not sure why. I noticed I was doing 3k rpm at 65 mph and I had to manually shift it into high gear with the shifter. unsure why. and it bangs down into first. that may be because it has a bit too much fluid in it.

Mitch
Im still laughing about this fuck up.. but its sorted now. The car drives pretty well.. Im still having trouble getting the transmission fluid level just right, but it shifts nicely now.
Have you ever seen these transmissions have trouble getting into 5th? Once in awhile while Im on the freeway the trans gets stuck in 4th.

PS... What kind of welder are you using, and the model number tooo...

I like your exhaust DIY... No one does it here on the forums

Martin
Thats probably because its quite a difficult bit of welding. The exhaust tubing is different diameter on each side in areas, and the cats that come with these cars have irregular shapes. you have to do custom bends and mess around with angles to get it to all line up. and then you have to account for weld shrinkage, which means your sections will be a couple mm shorter on each side after final welding than when you mocked it all up with tacks. And then you have to purge everything because its all stainless, and welding tin stainless tube is no joke either.. and after all that work my passenger side cat hangs about an inch lower than stock. It hasnt scraped on anything yet, but when I start taking this car down dirt roads in the back country I imagine it will..

my welder is the AHP alphatig 201XD. I would NOT reccomend dealing with this company. It took me a month to convince them to warranty the machine that was well within its 30day warranty period because it had an internal gas leak. If you want a budget TIG welder I reccomend the Everlast brand. They come with CK Worldwide torches, which are far less likely to leak than the cheap chinese stuff that comes with the AHP brand, and Everlast should have better customer service than I experienced with AHP. Honestly, if I could do it all again I'd just buy the HTP Invertig right off the bat for an extra grand, and have the only tig welder I'd ever need from the jump.
just my 2c
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I spent all day on the car today.
did the tailgate struts and the accumulators.
one of the damn studs on one of the accumulators snapped off while tightening. I dont think the nut had even landed on the bracket yet, it took almost no force.
gonna try to get a replacement from autohaus.

on my car both the feed and possibly the return line to that carry hydraulic fluid to the rear suspension level controller are leaking. I mentioned it earlier on in this thread.

I tried to loosen those fittings today, I was planning on using Loctite 545 and tightening them back down to see if I could alleviate the leaking.
All I did was strip them both.
I think they are held on with some kind of hardening sealant. I wasnt able to get my heat gun up in there because its so tight
Its a f$%ing stupid design because those fittings have a 12mm head and a much larger thread diameter than any other fitting. so with age and corrosion good luck getting them off. I may just replace the whole damn level controller at some point and cut the hard lines and flare new fittings. really frustrating system. or I may just throw it all out and go with standard shocks.

can anybody speculate as to why my rear suspension is still a half inch lower on the driver's side after replacing both accumulators?

Mitch
 

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Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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Could be faulty SLS valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Could be faulty SLS valve.
as far as I can tell the shocks are fed by one line coming out of the valve that goes into a T fitting and then splits to go to each shock. so you'd think they'd both get the same pressure all the time.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
Joined
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5,114 Posts
Yeah, that's why faulty SLS valve. Normally it's supposed to be equal proportion, but if there's debris or otherwise, could clog it and then the fluid distribution is off.
 
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93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
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Hey MAVA it looks like you missed this reply where I figured out the cause of my transmission issues after I put the car back together...



Im still laughing about this fuck up.. but its sorted now. The car drives pretty well.. Im still having trouble getting the transmission fluid level just right, but it shifts nicely now.
Have you ever seen these transmissions have trouble getting into 5th? Once in awhile while Im on the freeway the trans gets stuck in 4th.



Thats probably because its quite a difficult bit of welding. The exhaust tubing is different diameter on each side in areas, and the cats that come with these cars have irregular shapes. you have to do custom bends and mess around with angles to get it to all line up. and then you have to account for weld shrinkage, which means your sections will be a couple mm shorter on each side after final welding than when you mocked it all up with tacks. And then you have to purge everything because its all stainless, and welding tin stainless tube is no joke either.. and after all that work my passenger side cat hangs about an inch lower than stock. It hasnt scraped on anything yet, but when I start taking this car down dirt roads in the back country I imagine it will..

my welder is the AHP alphatig 201XD. I would NOT reccomend dealing with this company. It took me a month to convince them to warranty the machine that was well within its 30day warranty period because it had an internal gas leak. If you want a budget TIG welder I reccomend the Everlast brand. They come with CK Worldwide torches, which are far less likely to leak than the cheap chinese stuff that comes with the AHP brand, and Everlast should have better customer service than I experienced with AHP. Honestly, if I could do it all again I'd just buy the HTP Invertig right off the bat for an extra grand, and have the only tig welder I'd ever need from the jump.
just my 2c
Mitch,

Well glad you sorted it out on the tranny....

Yea, I'm just a basic Stick-Welder I mastered 3G vertical, and I was on 4G overhead, and COVID hit, and my school kicked everyone out. I see nice flowing welds, and I'm always catches my attention.... I have not forked-out any dough for a welder..

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Mitch,

Well glad you sorted it out on the tranny....

Yea, I'm just a basic Stick-Welder I mastered 3G vertical, and I was on 4G overhead, and COVID hit, and my school kicked everyone out. I see nice flowing welds, and I'm always catches my attention.... I have not forked-out any dough for a welder..

Martin
thats bad ass. stick is difficult, you could pick up tig pretty quick. Ive thought about doing a tradeschool for machining/welding or going back to community college for engineering.

In other news, the car rides really nicely now that it has new accumulators.

Im thinking about stuffing some of this in the back of the leaking fittings at the height control valve and seeing if it doesn't seal up the seepage. It isn't leaking from the threads, just from the hardline inside the fitting.
The system appears to work well besides the leak.
 
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