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The torque, The finer the threads the less torque. The M112/M113 have fine threads. The M119/M104 have more coarse threads, But do a three-stage torque on everything to seat equally.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
not proud of this one, but at least I caught it.
Got the pressure plate on and the bolts in with a dab of red loctite this am, then began torquing everything.
two of the bolts wouldnt achieve the preliminary 45nm, after which you tighten them a further 90* according to WIS.
they reached about 35 and just started spinning. All the bolts felt soft.

I pulled out the two that wouldnt achieve torque, and hunted down one of the original pressure plate bolts.
IMG_6448 by Mitch, on Flickr
that would explain alot.

there are 3 different bolts for this engine according to EPC, I picked the wrong one. If you take the time to reference your engine code, you'll get it right.
I needed bolts with a shank length of 25.5mm. the ones i ordered were 18.

more waiting for the proper bolts now..

Mitch
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
bolts are here. no progress on the wagon though. this week hopefully get the car back together and start working on the exhaust.

however, this entered my life yesterday.
IMG_3353 by Mitch, on Flickr

its an '02 c240 with a 6 speed. I bought the c240 because its an M112, so theoretically the car is compatible with other M engines.
These cars have the sgs270 transmission, which is weaker and apparently overall less good than the Sgs370 which came in the chrysler crossfire and jeeps.
If you get a 6 speed car with a non-M series engine, it will still be an sgs270 but it will have a different bellhousing. turns out M272/3 have same bellhousing as the M112/3

Ill make a separate thread for it.
Its an autocross project. Its pretty ragged cosmetically and has a healthy number of early w203 electrical issue but the drivetrain seems very healthy. definitely an "all the problems I want and none of the ones I dont" car. I sailed back to the bay area from LA yesterday at 85 with cruise control and AC blowing. got a great deal on it.

Mitch
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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370's and 400's were found in crossfire and SLK's, mostly. I doubt you're going to find one from a Jeep, people tend not to part them out, or parts sell within hours.

They yoink the 400's from other jeeps so they can swap into their CRD diesel jeeps.
 
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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
370's and 400's were found in crossfire and SLK's, mostly. I doubt you're going to find one from a Jeep, people tend not to part them out, or parts sell within hours.

They yoink the 400's from other jeeps so they can swap into their CRD diesel jeeps.
wrong bellhousing regardless. all these trans seem to have cast case/bellhousing that was engine specific. same internals different case with integrated bellhousing.
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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Supposedly OM642 had the same bellhousing pattern as the M112/113.

I can't confirm that, unfortunately, I didn't have a 112/3 nearby on hand when I took out a 642 for bunch of work ages ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Supposedly OM642 had the same bellhousing pattern as the M112/113.

I can't confirm that, unfortunately, I didn't have a 112/3 nearby on hand when I took out a 642 for bunch of work ages ago.
if that were true then I could use a manual trans from a diesel sprinter with a om642. thats probably the sgs400 we were talking about.

more work on the wagon this weekend. the c240 has developed a nasty clutch/flywheel rattle and needs a p/s pump so I need the wagon on the road

Mitch
 

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Discussion Starter #48
pressure plate torqued
IMG_3404 by Mitch, on Flickr
converter on
IMG_3399 by Mitch, on Flickr
WIS has a table with measurements for distance between converter and bellhousing. mine is 19.5mm
IMG_3413 by Mitch, on Flickr
IMG_3414 2 by Mitch, on Flickr

my little procedure for getting the trans in/out of this car in the garage is as follows

slide trans under car on planks
IMG_3416 by Mitch, on Flickr
lift rear onto wood block, slide trans jack along side.
IMG_3418 by Mitch, on Flickr
lift front of case onto trans jack by hand
IMG_3419 by Mitch, on Flickr
use floor jack to tile trans on jack and insert trans jack post
IMG_3421 by Mitch, on Flickr
IMG_3423 by Mitch, on Flickr
done. lifts are awesome.

it was around this point I realized I forgot to buy the clips that hold the shift linkage onto the shifter and trans shift lever..
you arent supposed to reuse them. I tried one of the old ones out and it slid on and off by hand.
so now I'm done for the weekend. Ill try to order those clips at work on monday.

best
Mitch
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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You can reuse them. I do it all the time.
Trick is to bend the clip down, the part where it is supposed to tension and hold.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
You can reuse them. I do it all the time.
Trick is to bend the clip down, the part where it is supposed to tension and hold.
i thought about doing that. if i cant get them from one of our suppliers at work thats what ill do. thanks for the tip
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
Im back.
Transmission is in the car, finally. I've been messing around with a gas contamination issue on my tig setup, looks like it might just be a bad gas cylinder. Got the damn thing replaced under warranty and everything, still haven't found the issue. buying a new tank of argon this week, could just have been bad gas this whole time. I got a deal on a big tank from an independent supplier, maybe he was selling tanks that were rejected by praxair.

a buddy and I got it into the car in around 2 hours last weekend. today I stopped by the house and buttoned it all up. Still have to torque the forward drive axle bolts at the transfer case, dont let me forget haha.
IMG_3609 by Mitch, on Flickr
IMG_3684 by Mitch, on Flickr
IMG_3612 by Mitch, on Flickr


found a torn center bearing bushing and bad center bearing after removing the central heatshield while we were lifting the trans into the car.
pressed the center bearing off at work, I have a new one on the way. the bushing/support is Febi, I guess its a competition to see if the Febi guibo wears out before the Febi center bearing support..
IMG_3643 by Mitch, on Flickr
IMG_4250 by Mitch, on Flickr

the U-joint at the center support bearing was spitting grease onto the trans tunnel and was stiff. the lil needle bearings are all probably seized in there. the guys at work told me to rinse it repeatedly with penetrating oil and tap around the pins with a hammer. I did that for a couple days and let it sit in the sun, its a little free-er now. Hopefully lasts.
I forgot to mark the alignment of the driveshaft when I took it off, luckily there are factory alignment hashes on the u-joint and the forward shaft yoke.

got this job started as well
IMG_3667 by Mitch, on Flickr
IMG_3671 by Mitch, on Flickr

I bought a carbide chop saw from Evolution and it works beautifully. Highly recommended.
IMG_3675 by Mitch, on Flickr

the new parts bin is getting smaller and smaller. Just waiting for the center bearing support and the bearing itself and its all going back together.
then the exhaust can get done.
IMG_3688 by Mitch, on Flickr


There is some fun stuff in store for the C240 6MT once this car gets back on the road. the W203 has been my ride to work while the wagon is under the knife.
Mitch

IMG_3686 by Mitch, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I forgot! I have one question: for those who have done a fluid exchange on the 722.6 with dipstick. does the dipstick stick out of the dipstick tube several inches when fully inserted? if not, mine wont go in all the way.. I forgot to take a picture, but imagine the trans dipstick head not seating on the mouth of the tube but sticking out about 6 inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Good News: exhaust is finished and car is back together. no leaks (yet)
I'll post pictures of the exhaust when I have time.

Bad News: car drives terribly.
no power, and wont change gear unless you lift, especially in first and second.
if you drive with a minute amount of throttle the trans will behave somewhat normally except that the car is slow.
if you apply throttle to accelerate quickly, or you hit a hill, the car will stick in gear and feels like it has 50hp.

because it shifts somewhat predictably with light throttle on flat road I am worried it is the torque converter.
the transmission fluid level shows to be perfect in the cold range in P after shifting through the drive modes properly. I am having trouble getting it up to temp to check the hot range (80c) as when I pull the dipstick the fluid still only feels warm. I have only driven it for around 30 mins total in 3 different test drives, I dont want to drive it any more than I have to with these issues. I drove it for about 10 minutes just now, now its Idling for awhile to try to get it to temp.

the way I filled the trans was I added a couple of liters of fluid to the torque converter before I installed it. then I added about 6 liters to the trans when I filled it in the car. the total capacity for this trans is 7.5 +0.5 L. I assumed it was a good idea to prefill the converter a bit before installing it. now Im wondering if something I did is preventing the trans from filling the converter properly.

Mitch
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
cold fluid level.
IMG_2163

Hot fluid level (about 10 mins driving, 15 mins idling)
IMG_1508

it should have a total of about 8L in it, so it makes sense the level is reading correctly. Im wondering if somewhere between the trans and the floor and the bench and back to the trans something got misaligned in the converter. It is indeed properly installed on the trans with the full 3 clicks. and it doesnt seem to be leaking fluid from anywhere. It is also possible I put the oil pump back together wrong.. but there isn't a whole lot to get wrong there. maybe because I filled the converter before installing there is some kind of pressure difference that is preventing it from draining or something... I remember talking to MAVA about possibly installing the outer oil pump gear upside down, it has a chamfer. Im pretty sure I didn't do that though as it has a dimple on its outward face..

Mitch

EDIT:
I got about 4.5 L out of the trans. the fluid is very dark, lots of friction material.
IMG_1784
IMG_8701
IMG_9764
not too much metal
IMG_9339

I cant imagine this is normal. possibly points to another bent friction in the trans causing a sticking clutch? I will say that it seems to cruise alright once it gets to 3rd. and it feels fairly normal in reverse at low speeds, changes drive modes just fine. the problem does get worse as the fluid heats up. maybe that represents increased sticktion from a bent friction disc. could this friction material come from the torque converter? I dont think there is friction material in the converter?
if there was an oil pressure issue from the pump you would think I'd get a warning or a CEL.
 

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Paging @MAVA .... this is more his expertise than mine.

But certainly seems that way. Maybe the spacers got misplaced?
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Paging @MAVA .... this is more his expertise than mine.

But certainly seems that way. Maybe the spacers got misplaced?
i called a mercedes transmission specialist and they told me the 722.6 in the w210 doesnt even have a pressure sender.
I actually have a copy of SDS/Xentry and a obd2 adapter. I just dont have a PC to put it on right now. Im gonna try to get that running this week and see if I can pull some codes. Also gonna try and smoke the engine and see if I have a vacuum leak. can you tell I really dont want to pull this transmission back out? lol
 

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93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
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Sorry, fill me in on what you did on the transmission ?

IMG_4250 by Mitch, on Flick
I forgot to mark the alignment of the driveshaft when I took it off, luckily there are factory alignment hashes on the u-joint and the forward shaft yoke.
Where are the hashes? At the moment I have no rubber boot on my front shaft. My boot just turned to a wet noodle...

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
l
Sorry, fill me in on what you did on the transmission ?



Where are the hashes? At the moment I have no rubber boot on my front shaft. My boot just turned to a wet noodle...

Martin
too bad im not with the car or I could take a picture. there are two on one of the yokes of the inner universal joint, and one a little above the splines on the front driveshaft. if you turn them both over you'll find them. they are triangular in shape and stick out of the housings slightly

as far as the transmission, it did the oil pump seals and replaced a bent friction in the K1 clutch. the car is all back together but doesnt drive correctly. the accelerator pedal is really soft, does very little, as if the engine has no power, and the car wont shift in low gears until you lift off the pedal once the fluid is hot. it will just rev, wont really speed up or shift. it has no power, wont go over 25 or 30 mph and if you try to climb a hill it just revs and feels like its slipping. i havent gotten it past 3rd, it wont go fast enough.

it could be a whole range of things, but if its something I messed up its probably that there is another bent friction somewhere or i put the outer oil pump gear in upside down and it isnt building enough pressure. could also be the engine.
it goes into gear fine and shifts somewhat normally if youre barely touching the throttle, but wont make any power or go over around 30mph.
i have a video i will post here
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I got to the house today planning to smoke test the engine. I thought I might get lucky and it would be a vacuum leak and I wouldnt have to pull the trans.
I removed the airbox housing from the MAF and this fell out..
IMG_2201

the paper towel I had used to protect the maf while the intake was off the car... LMFAO
I was in there the whole time being sucked up against the maf screen and restricting flow into the intake. Im impressed the car did as well as it did.
62630708901__F0B85AAD-42E3-40BB-9663-90A3468EF2A8 2
a nice imprint in the towel from being sucked against the screen. problem solved.

the car drives well now, as well as it ever has. There is no more howling noise on the freeway, which I suspect was the nearly empty front diff. It shifts alright too.
I cruised home from San francisco to Oakland in it.
It wouldn't shift into 5th. not sure why. I noticed I was doing 3k rpm at 65 mph and I had to manually shift it into high gear with the shifter. unsure why. and it bangs down into first. that may be because it has a bit too much fluid in it.

However as soon as I got home I tried calibrating the automatic rear window and it fell off of the regulator and into the door in the low position. what the fuck.
are rear window regulators a common issue with these cars? thats the second one thats failed on this one. I bought it wit a bad reg on the other side. now I have to do them both.

drivetrain has some weird wiggles accelerating from a stop. maybe the front driveshaft is out of balance, I took it off the splines and never check the alignment when I slid it back on. dont see why it would be balanced with the front yoke though. I also have to check and make sure the trans crossmember and trans mount are tight.

here are some pictures of the exhaust welding process
IMG_0166
IMG_6291
IMG_6735
I didnt have any room to do the welding. I need practice and a better welding table. now that the car isnt occupying the garage I'll build one.
IMG_8701 2
both cats in before welding the drivers side.
IMG_0091

if you get your cats replaced, be prepared for them to hang lower than the originals, which have inlets and outlets positioned on the bottom of the housings so the majority of the cat sits above the exhaust tubing. the passengers side cat is now the lowest point on the car, sadly.

Mitch
 
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