[ezzo]

I used the 1 7/8" socket to push the old bushing out. The socket was pushing mostly against the rubber, but I did not worry about damaging the old bushing.
When pushing the new bushing in, I used a 50mm cup from a ball joint tool kit. That's what caused the damage on one of the bushings because it was very hard to align the cup perfectly perpendicular over the bushing outer shell.

My advice to you is to to use a proper bushing tool kit. Bear in mind that when the bushing is fully inserted in the tappered hole of the control arm, it will have a diameter of 49mm when looking from the back of the control arm, and 50mm when looking at it from the front.

Since you live in the US, can't you rent the bushing kit from a place like Harbor Freight, O'Reilly Auto Parts, Auto Zone, etc.?

 

[ps2cho]

OK was doing more searching last night through my tools, and there actually was a perfect size cup that was a missing part I set aside from another MB bushing kit. Should fit perfect for the reinstall, but going to have to disconnect the tie rod and the other end of the sway bar so I can move them out the way for enough space.

So are you saying the bushing needs to be both removed and reinstalled from the front (of the car) as it is slightly tapered?

 

[ezzo]

OK was doing more searching last night through my tools, and there actually was a perfect size cup that was a missing part I set aside from another MB bushing kit. Should fit perfect for the reinstall, but going to have to disconnect the tie rod and the other end of the sway bar so I can move them out the way for enough space.

You don't need to disconnect the tie rod, at least I did not. The only thing I disconnected on each side was the sawy bar end link to gain access to the strut bolt. I did not give enough attention to the fact that the bolt and nut were self tighnening and installed them again and hence the cluncking you saw in the video (https://www.benzworld.org/forums/17759540-post21.html). So, make sure to have new bolts and nuts or some kind of thread locks. I got the bolts and nuts from the dealer (around $12 each side).

So are you saying the bushing needs to be both removed and reinstalled from the front (of the car) as it is slightly tapered?

Correct. Push back to front to remove. Push front to back to insert.

 

[ps2cho]

Well I dont know how you pressed this bushing in, the tolerances, even when I froze the bushing were still too big. No matter how I tried to insert the bushing, it just went in at an angle every time. Its as if the bushing is still 1mm too big. Even when I lined it up by hand, the bushing was larger than the hole its going into (and yes that was from the tapered "front" side of the arm).

This was not the case when I pressed in the "inner" lower arm bushings. This outer/strut bushing is on another level of difficulty.

I may just throw my hands up and buy another whole arm...

 

[ezzo]

ps2cho, I just have to say that you already had several more difficult projects documented on this forum, some of which I myself learned from, and applied. I think it is safe to say that this is easier than what you think. If you got the right tools, it should not be hard. In any case, I am not sure if freezing the bushing would make any difference to the diameter because the bushing is mostly rubber, unlike ball joints that can shrink when frozen because they are metal.

I am sure you were trying to insert the bushing from the right side of the control arm (front), but this side of the arm has a tapered "ledge" as well. Undoubtedly, this tapered ledge fits the whole bushing. When you start cranking your wrench with the press tool, the bushing will gradually compress and make its way into the hole.
I put a schematic to show the tapered "ledge" that I am referring to here (marked in red).

Even if the bushing goes in at an angle at first, you can easily adjust it by hand and continue the insertion process. There is leeway for you to align the bushing in the first ~3/8" of the distance.

[EDIT]: Can you post some pictures of your attempt so it is clear to us what goes on when you try to insert the bushing?

 

[ps2cho]

Every time it kept going in at an angle the metal outer shell began digging in...
Unfortunately the shell is too warped to use now so I may give it another go and order a set of bushings before giving up.

I’ve completely removed the LCA from the car so I have have a good visual. Hoping round two will be more successful

 

[ezzo]

I’ve completely removed the LCA from the car so I have have a good visual. Hoping round two will be more successful

I wish you had taken pictures when removing the control arm and posted on a new thread for all of us to learn!

Also, since the control arm is out, why don't you take it to a shop to have them compress the bushing? I hear they can charge something around $20-$25.

 

[Witek_M]

Every time it kept going in at an angle the metal outer shell began digging in...
Unfortunately the shell is too warped to use now so I may give it another go and order a set of bushings before giving up.

I’ve completely removed the LCA from the car so I have have a good visual. Hoping round two will be more successful

Put high pressure hose clamp around the bushing. Once it starts straight remove clamp and drive it home.

 

[ps2cho]

I wish you had taken pictures when removing the control arm and posted on a new thread for all of us to learn!

Also, since the control arm is out, why don't you take it to a shop to have them compress the bushing? I hear they can charge something around $20-$25.

I'm telling you, its a piece of cake, IF you don't have the alignment bolt on the front bushing, which then requires the sway bar to be removed.
I believe in my suspension knock thread, I have photo's of part of removal for tools used anyway. EDIT: https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w2...ension-steering-knock-driving-me-crazy-4.html post #36 on how to disconnect lower ball joint, then you just remove the LCA bolts and remove, thats it.

Put high pressure hose clamp around the bushing. Once it starts straight remove clamp and drive it home.

That's actually a great idea. I feel like the rubber is just slightly too big because of the bushing design with its cut-out section. The rubber stretches the outer shell. I've ordered two new bushings this morning on asap shipping so hopefully Tuesday I'll have two more and I'll try that method! :thumbsup:

 

[ezzo]

I'm telling you, its a piece of cake, IF you don't have the alignment bolt on the front bushing, which then requires the sway bar to be removed.
I believe in my suspension knock thread, I have photo's of part of removal for tools used anyway. EDIT: https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w2...ension-steering-knock-driving-me-crazy-4.html post #36 on how to disconnect lower ball joint, then you just remove the LCA bolts and remove, thats it.

Hi ps2cho,
I went through your whole suspension knock thread. A lot of work done for that nasty clunk. Definitely torquing the bushings' bolts while the car was in the air was a mistake. Good luck with the rest of the installation and let's know how it comes out.

 

[ps2cho]

Well a couple of worm clamps worked beyond expectations - what an amazing trick thanks Witek! Was very excited and had to come inside to post how easy this was now!

With the bushing almost all the way compressed, it slot in with basically no hassle at all.
Now to button it all up and see if the noise is gone!

PS: With the bushing all the way in, the outer shell is almost fully compressed. Without doing the compression trick, I can't believe you managed to press that bushing in without troubles!

 

[Witek_M]

Well a couple of worm clamps worked beyond expectations - what an amazing trick thanks Witek! Was very excited and had to come inside to post how easy this was now!

With the bushing almost all the way compressed, it slot in with basically no hassle at all.
Now to button it all up and see if the noise is gone!

PS: With the bushing all the way in, the outer shell is almost fully compressed. Without doing the compression trick, I can't believe you managed to press that bushing in without troubles!

/

Good job.:goojob:

I don't see that bushing making popping sound. It is most likely loose sway bar link.

 

[ps2cho]

I don't see that bushing making popping sound. It is most likely loose sway bar link.

Been driving the car for a good hundred miles and unfortunately no dice on knock fix even if that bushing was bad - I’m going to take a closer look at the sway bar link though. Even though I’ve torqued up that nut correctly to 70nm I re-used it so going to see if it’s still moving under load.

 

[ezzo]

ps2cho, inserting the bushing in my case requried a lot of fanessing. I did not do it properly on the driver's side, but it went perfecting well on the passenger side after I had gained experience.
Nevertheless, the cluncking sound is gone even on the driver's side. I do think that the wear on the driver's side bushing will be a lot quicker, so I am planning to re-do this side in a year or so.

It is good to know that using clamps worked nicely for you.

Have you checked my post (https://www.benzworld.org/forums/17759540-post21.html) that was directed to you? In the video, the sway bar link nut clearly shows loose coupling with the sway bar even after I had torqued it to specs. This was because I did not believe re-using the bolt and nut would be a problem. You *cannot* re-use the same nut and bolt for the sway bar links. MB doesn't joke about self locking/tightening nuts.

 

[ezzo]

ps2cho,
Did you get new bolts/nuts for the sway bar links? Would you give us an update?

 

[ps2cho]

ps2cho,
Did you get new bolts/nuts for the sway bar links? Would you give us an update?

I haven't got new bolts/nuts yet, but I threw an additional washer on, retightened above specs and its still making noise. I dont think its coming from the sway bar, however what I want to do is disconnect it completely and go for a drive so I have a foolproof way to remove it from the equation.

Unfortunately have been sick recently and only just got back to this yesterday. This week plan to disconnect and test it that way.

 

[Kuhyuan]

This is a great write up on lower control arm bushings

I did not want to spend $1K. Or mor to replace the arms, probably cost more than what the car is worth

 

[Kuhyuan]

I am in the process of replacing all the bushings on both lower control arms
Removed both arms today, relatively easy. Noticed one of the sway bar endilink was bad, Ordered a new set , my fcp euro order showed up but was missing a item. Called them and they’re expediting the part, so I should have it by Wednesday. Will take it to a machine shop to have them press in the new bushings . I don’t think I can do it, definitely worth paying a professional .

Hopefully I can get everything done by Thursday.

Trying to figure out how to torque everything with the weight of the car on all 4 wheels. I don’t have a ramp, maybe some blocks of wood?

Can someone provide me with torque settings for the control arms , ball joint and end links.

Will update when completed

Thanks

 

[Kuhyuan]

Waiting fir a missing strut bushing and hopefully can get it pressed in on Thursday

Bushing, look a little tired after 15 years

Found a small cut on endlink boot, also the joint is very loose compared to the passenger side.

Hopefully all this will take care of the awful moaning, creaking and clicking noise.

 

[KrustyKustom]

As far as removing the whole lower control arm i cannot figure out why the WIS ask to support the engine other than just removing the weight from the front sub frame? Seems you can get the inner bolts out if you remove sway bark mounting?