[Gadget450]

After owning my first MB for three weeks, I finally drove it! During the 5 miles I put on the beast, I noticed a regular "brushing" sound. Looking through the many books I've collected I think I may have found an avenue to investigate. I think I've got one of three possible problems. 1 a dry center bearing 2 Bad u-joints or, 3. Flex coupler problems at either or both ends of the shaft. I've read the write-up on this forum regarding the procedure to pull the shaft and have a couple of questions.

The 46mm wrench used to loosen the bolt at the front of the shaft, should I use a box/open wrench or a socket? My Chilton's manual shows two wrenched used together to loosen it, should I buy two wrenches or use the chain wrench mentioned on the forum?

Thanks for your wisdom oh great gurus of MB-land.

 

[nobby]

After owning my first MB for three weeks, I finally drove it! During the 5 miles I put on the beast, I noticed a regular "brushing" sound. Looking through the many books I've collected I think I may have found an avenue to investigate. I think I've got one of three possible problems. 1 a dry center bearing 2 Bad u-joints or, 3. Flex coupler problems at either or both ends of the shaft. I've read the write-up on this forum regarding the procedure to pull the shaft and have a couple of questions.

The 46mm wrench used to loosen the bolt at the front of the shaft, should I use a box/open wrench or a socket? My Chilton's manual shows two wrenched used together to loosen it, should I buy two wrenches or use the chain wrench mentioned on the forum?

Thanks for your wisdom oh great gurus of MB-land.

You'll need the big wrench at the half way point of the shaft. I used a chain wrench to hold the shaft from spinning while I loosened the nut. Once loosened the prop shaft will telescope which is required to get the shat ends off the train / diff.

Remember to scribe the two halves so it goes back together the same way.



Flex discs, hanger bearing and all other associated parts are available at MB EXCEPT the u joint. You will have to source a u joint from a standard auto parts store OR bring your shaft to a driveshaft shop and have them do it. Either way...you might want to get the whole show balanced after anyways.

Good luck as it is a bit of a pain in the ass to do without a lift or pit.

Ask me how I know!

 

[rs899]

A rubber strap wrench may work. That coupler is not supposed to be very tight (YMMV, of course)

 

[nobby]

A rubber strap wrench may work. That coupler is not supposed to be very tight (YMMV, of course)

Mine was on TIGHT. The rubber strap wrench didn't work thus the chain wrench.

 

[rs899]

Possibly a large set of channel lock pliers or a plumbing flange wrench may work. Again- YMMV.

 

[ctaylor738]

I used a 46 mm wrench that I got from Harbor Freight and a large pair of channel locks. This will go better if you use a liberal amount of PB Blaster and let it soak in for a couple of days. Once you get the clamp nut loose, don't expect the shaft to slide easily. You will probably need to unbolt the front flex disc and pry the shaft backwards.