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W107 W113
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1,408 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I will attempt to get to the trigger points to inspect them and verify the gap/opening "duration". I will be using a similar version of Nobert's "cylinder" to adjust the gap.

Does anyone know when removing the distributor if there is a mark to keep the timing correct? (other than marking the rotor with respect to the engine)

Thank you

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1973 450 SL
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I usually pull the cap and snap a photo of the rotor position before I loosen the set screw. Take note when you pull the distributor, the rotor will turn a few degrees as you lift it out of the helical gear (snap a photo of that too). When it goes back in, match the position of the second picture then with it back in place, it will match the first picture. If it doesn't work, simply pull it and try again.

If you choose to set TDC at the crank, the rotor will point to a reference mark on the top edge of the distributor housing. If I remember correctly, this mark and the rotor will be pointing at cylinder 8, roughly toward the brake booster.

I would provide pictures for this but, at the moment, I am working with a laptop that experienced an SSD failure - will fix this and get to my pictures when I get home.
 

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Outstanding Contributor, Vintage Moderator
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro 300sel5spd R+C107galore
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There’s a Cylinder 1 (TDC) line on the distributor that denotes where the cap plug wire 1 is located.


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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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There’s a Cylinder 1 (TDC) line on the distributor that denotes where the cap plug wire 1 is located.
There is and it can be used when resetting timing using marks on cam shaft and balancer. However, to just remove and replace distributor, Brads suggestions are A-1!

I never have used a camera, but I have made a mark on distributor casing with a marker pen to show where rotor pointed before I removed the distributor. There is always some slop in rotor, so wiggle it a bit and note the range it moves and maybe mark the mid point.

You can also check just where the set screw is and try and mark that. But it's a long way down there! I have found that car runs best with screw almost at end of slot when distributor is turned CCW. That gives me about 27 BTDC at 3000rpm.
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
Joined
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13,463 Posts
I would provide pictures for this but, at the moment, I am working with a laptop that experienced an SSD failure - will fix this and get to my pictures when I get home.
That reminds me - My laptop (with SSD) is due for a backup!
 
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