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1983 300D Turbo Diesel
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Discussion Starter #1
there is a w126 for sale on ebay in nj w/185000 miles on it. the seller states that it runs excellently with the exception of some tapping coming from the top of the motor. should this car be avoided as a purchase?
thanks to all who respond!!
fred
 

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1987 420SEL
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1,133 Posts
If the car is on it's original timing chain tensioner and rails, I'll bet there's more than minor "tapping". Mine had a click/tap noise when I bought it, coming from the top end, and it was in need of a timing chain tensioner at 185,000kms. You can really tell if you are able to hear the car running with the oil cap off.
 

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Depends on the day!
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13,337 Posts
All depends, some minor rocker/tappet noise isn't uncommon in these cars as the miles add up.. One would need to hear it in person to know just how Bad this noise really is.

For all we know it could be a cam lobe that has been wiped off and it's TICKING away....


Jonathan
 

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1982 Euro 500 SEC, 1985 300D Turbo Diesel (338,000 miles!), 1984 Euro BRABUS 190E
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275 Posts
It does seem to be a commmon problem with these cars. (mine does it) But I don't know if that fact makes the noise any less worrisome, and I've heard the noise being blamed on worn cam lobes, hydraulic lifters, old timing chains and tensioners... it's difficult to say what the cause is.
 

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1983 300D Turbo Diesel
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1,799 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
this car is located in nj and is very clean otherwise. i dont think the bidding on this car will pass $1500 by the time it is finished. it has 2 days left on aution and 0 bids thus far.
 

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1989 420 SEL
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12 Posts
Mystery resolved!!!!!!!!
I am the succor who bought the vehicle you guys are talking about. This car was on ebay and I ended up buying it for 1000. But let me tell you what kind of succor I was and what lessons I learned perhaps it will help others to be careful when buying on ebay. Those photos were deceiving and I bought the car without seeing it. When it was picked up the windshield was broken, stereo was stolen, suspension idle-arm was broken, upper control arms worn, trany slipping, A/C compressor busted, battery, window switches broken, etc. The lifters knock which is normal. It is not scary knock but rather like a old watch healthy click. After fixing everything else costing me thousands, as you imagine, I took it in to adjust the lifters. The mechanice spent hours to adjust it well.

I drove it to Iowa from DC and noticed that the cruise control is not working. It would work for a few minutes in which it would jerk up and down until it lets go for good. I bought a stick from the gas station to manually hold the gas peddle and cruise the car on flat flat flat highways (Do not try this ever!). I noticed that even-though the gas pressure is constant, the speed of the vehicle goes up and down between 65 to 80 mph.

The engine start well and the RPM is around 600 steady. At 600 the oil gage jumps up and down. It's better after a good oil change 10-30.

Since you guys had the opportunity to support each other out of this lemon deal of the century, would you help me a bit to fix this car. For what you said it could mean the trimming belt needs to be changed. Would you verify a bit now that you know more about the engine.

I thank you all in advance for any help.
 

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1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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1,830 Posts
How did it get from NJ to DC?

Next time, buy a car from your local Craigslist.

BTW, the engine has a timing chain not belt.
 

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1987 420SEL
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1,133 Posts
Fleabay bags another victim...

Anywho,

A timing chain/tensioner/guide rail job would probably help the ticking, and is a good idea at any rate.

Have you changed the ATF and filter? Another maintenance job that may cure the percieved slipping of the trans, if not done already.

A very easy job to do, although it takes slight dissassembly of things like the air-filter housing and some valve cover hoses, is to change the little rubber couplings on the vacuum lines on the engine. The ones near the throttle plate will be a pain to get to and attach, but the rubber gets old and causes leaks in the system which can make some strange fluctuations in engine performance.
 

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'87 560SEC: '86 AMG 560SEC: '87 560SEL - PAST: Heckflosse 190 & 230S
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1,479 Posts
"bags another victim..." Didn't see what model W126, but coming into the deal, for $1K I'd be inclined to expect a running parts-car! What's the world coming to, when people expect to pickup nice-condition, well-running, best-of-breed MBZ for a grand :eek:

But creds 2 U Bear200 - for making the effort to bring 'er 'back' from the brink!
 

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CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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40,767 Posts
Welcome to the forum. Please complete your profile with the car mod and location, to make it easier for members to offer advice. How to search and update your profile etc. is explained in the 'Welcome' announcement / tutorial sticky on top.
Cheers
 

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560SL,380SL
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At that mileage, the timing chain, upper guides, tensioner would be a given. I recently replaced my cam gears also at 120K. The oil tubes should be cleaned spotless and new fittings installed. The ticking is likely to be a worn cam lobe, cam follower, etc. When I bought my 380SL (cheap), the "ticking" had turned into "banging" as what was left of the RH rear cam lobe attempted to push the follower...for some reason, the RH cams wear out faster in these cars.


The cruise control is 90% likely the cruise control electronics module (can be replaced new (expensive), repaired (less), or had cheap on eBay. Your car probably has a "newer" type which is common of late 80's early 90's cars, where the electronics are the same but the programming module (just a plastic plug with resistors on it) sets it to the various cars and their engine/tranny combinations. You would move your programming module (too simple to fail) to the new/used/eBay'ed unit.


The other 10% of the problems would be 7% actuator, and 3% binding of the linkages.
 

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CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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40,767 Posts
Some assume the right cylinder bank is somewhat strangled, because on the W126 V8 US cars, the right hand exhaust manifold feeds into a pipe that curves behind the engine to connect with the left (drivers side) manifold, and into one single down pipe.
On the (more hp) Euro cars, the manifolds lead into individual down pipes, one for each cylinder bank.
Cheers
 

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1989 420 SEL
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12 Posts
Thank you all for your invaluable advise!
As you know I have taken her out of the Coffine and put lots of TLC to get her back on her feet. I will spend the next few weeks to iron the rest of the problems with the engine, trany, and cruise. If there any diagrams and stuff to assist me on some of your guidance I would appreciate it. Thanks a lot and it feels good to be part of such a terrific group of individuals who care.
 

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'82 Euro 500SEL, '85 Euro 500SEC AMG WB Cabriolet,'86 Euro 500SEC RUF
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If you are a gear head it takes about 1 hour to disassemble the stuff down to the throttle body, i.e. air cleaner, fuel lines and the air metering chamber and Fuel Dist.(the two latter come off as one unit). It's a whole lot easier to replace the vacuum lines(all of them and the rubber connectors too. I broke one port off the 3/2 vac. valve on the throttle body and had to replace that too. Now I have new vacuum lines and fittings for all the lines in the engine compartment.
 
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