Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 20 of 330 Posts

·
Registered
1987 416 Doka
Joined
·
651 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Let me preface this post with a comment as to the planning – it was extensive. I have a great many of you all to thank for answering calls and emails, and just sharing your experience with me in general – thank you! I spent months investigating electric supercharger options, remote systems like STS, factory systems, and I finally decided on a Holset HX35 with a 12cm exhaust housing for quicker spooling. I did not care for the smallness (my opinion) of the factory turbos and since the 12 valve dodge engines have about the same engine size, I used theirs as my base platform.

Before I could install the turbo I desired though, I had to lift the cab 3 inches. While this could have been done much easier, like docfranco did, I wanted to install an air-ride cab suspension system for comfort purposes (and just because I can!). So my cab lift is a bit more complicated, but in short, my front mounts are my custom fabricated cab tilt hinges; my mid-mounts are 600# springs; and the rear mount is a Freightliner air-ride setup with my cab shocks functioning as limiting straps. I also removed my PTO as I did not use it.

I had a performance shop in Windsor Colorado do the turbo install. They hand-built the exhaust manifold for my engine and mounted the turbo. They ran the supply oil line from in between the block and the oil pressure switch (pretty clever I thought), and welded in a fitting to the oil pan for the return. The turbo was used, with only about 100hrs on it. They fabricated an exhaust outlet to tie into the factory muffler system, basically replacing the plumbing that the factory manifold did. (I will post the shop's information once I have fully vetted their work and can recommend them to the community.)

As my mog did not have hydraulics, they ran my air intake into the right side of my engine bay, in front of the passenger foot well. Do to my desire to be able to tilt my cab up in less than ten minutes, and since my cab is in constant motion, I reworked their excellent intake piping to suit my needs. I basically installed a silicone elbow and raised the air filter a little higher towards the hood. A few other thing are going to happen to enclose that area a bit more, to protect the filter from excess water or debris… Since the snorkel to too restrictive, I did remove my air canister and filter, etc, and you could certainly put your filter in that area – that is what Jay Couch did on the Magpul mog, and it worked out great.

Another thing to be aware of, I removed my stock radiator and entire heater system, and installed a high performance aluminum dual core, double pass Griffin radiator – sitting horizontally and completely protected by the front grill. This radiator is much more efficient, and like my other off road truck, I removed the mechanical fan and installed a 16” electric fan with automatic thermostat controlled switch.

This was my base system to which I added a Snow Performance Stage 3 diesel methanol injection system. This system has a computerized controller displaying EGT’s and boost pressure, and allows me to inject methanol under several conditions, one being boost pressure, and other (and more important to me) being EGT’s. I installed the pyrometer probe in the exhaust manifold, just under the turbo flange – this is for pre-turbo temp readings to ensure I don’t melt my pistons. Should my EGT’s rise to an uncomfortable level, while climbing over the mountain passes, I can add methanol and bring the temps down by a hundred or two degrees. At the moment, I do not want an intercooler, so the Stage 3 is my preferred option, but my performance shop is suggesting the intercooler – I just prefer the ability to force my EGT’s down with my injection system…

At this point, my fuel system is a stock delivery rates. My max boost is around 12-13 psi. My rpm’s are limited at 2800; and my EGT’s go up to 1050 F. I am now beginning to tune my fuel delivery… I will post more into this thread about this aspect over time.


I also re-geared my hubs with a set a Roberto Espinsoza’s fast gears. I opted for CTIS as well, and everything has been good. I will control my CTIS with an electronic military system, but I have not plumbed everything or decided on my wiring method yet . I also bought some beadlock wheels to facilitate lower tire pressures off road. I have a fear of debeading despite the hilarious youtube videos out there of re-beading with starter fluid! :D

I also removed my front implement mounts and bumper, and built a very heavy duty winch bumper. I did not want a winch sitting in front of my radiator blocking air flow. I also did not want the winch that high either, because of the winch angles it creates. I wanted my winch right between the frame rails, and that’s where it is. I have a 16,500# electric winch spooled with 20,000# synthetic line ready for use. I might have done things differently if I had hydraulics on my mog, but, I am working with what I got! I do have a dump bed on my mog, without a cylinder, that will get an electric driven hydraulic pump and cylinder (like that used on dump trailers) down the road. I installed an awesome crane on the bed, and you can read about that here, just look for my post.

You can take a look at various pics of things here. My mog is a constant work in progress and I am having a great time customizing it to my liking! I would like to fabricate an overhead console (I have a safari top) for radios, DVD player, CTIS controller, etc; but I want to rewire the fuse panel utilizing blade fuses and relays. I don’t want to get to ahead of myself until this is done. I am not comfortable with electrical stuff though, so I am still researching…
 

·
Registered
'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
Joined
·
2,643 Posts
Sweet. I would add some flex to the front cab mounts though...

C.
 

·
Registered
1987 416 Doka
Joined
·
651 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Some questions and answers: The front cab mounts are fabricated using the "eye" of semi truck shocks (real big), and have large rubber isolators or bushings in them. My bumper is the real limiter to front end flex though - it's pretty tight up front!

The mog is running great, even without fuel mods. I am in college and need to focus on my studies, so I won't be working on it for the next day or two, but I'd like to turn up the IP and see where the boost psi ends up. Even with the HS gears, the truck picks up speed very nicely. The gap from 3rd to 4th is still a tough one, but I think the fuel mods will resolve that quite nicely.
 

·
Registered
1987 416 Doka
Joined
·
651 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well, it's been a tough couple of weeks... Some vandals slashed one of my tires causing some delays in my progress - but thanks to Jay Couch, I am rolling on a loaner! So, I read several posts on the IP, and jumped in and turned mine up!

I over did it though, and so, I have been systematically dialing it back into range. I think I've got it pretty close to target!

My max boost reads 17 psi, and since I am reading at the very end of my valve cover, Jay said it might be reading about 1.5 psi low. Either way, I am pleased with the numbers and the sound of the turbo spooling up as well - it's beautiful! Since I have been turning back the IP adjustment, my EGT's are reading under 1200 (pre-turbo) - which is very good. I have not hooked up the methanol injector yet, but I expect to use that to keep EGT's well in the safe range on long climbs in the mountains...

My IP is the tractor type, and very, very stiff at the pedal. I have some difficulty being "smooth" on the throttle because of it. I wish I could tone-down the pedal pressure or something, to allow me to hold a certain speed better.

One other update, while I have not wired in my e-fan thermostat yet, I did plug it in to see what effect it would have on my coolant temp, and in a few minutes it dropped my temp from 90 to about 65 C while I was driving. It will work fantastic at keeping my temps in a safe range during the summer. Of course, I have a 2-row, double pass radiator though, so it is far more effective in itself.
 

·
Registered
2015 Rubicon Unlimited (Let the shame be upon me!)
Joined
·
3,756 Posts
Sounds to me like you need to make a statement:

Greetings from The Humungus! The Lord Humungus! The Warrior of the Wasteland! The Ayatollah of Rock and Rolla!



There has been too much violence. Too much pain. But I have an honorable compromise. Just walk away. Give me a replacement tire and I'll spare your lives. Just walk away and we'll give you a safe passageway in the wastelands. Just walk away and there will be an end to the horror

 

·
Registered
'91 427.110 '02 405.230
Joined
·
3,384 Posts
Bryan, it would be nice to see some pictures of your turbo setup.

Sorry about the tire.
 

·
Registered
U-406/416
Joined
·
687 Posts
Cool build, I would hook the snorkle back up though, The spring on the pasanger side of the engine is total over kill remove it and replace it with a lighter spring I changed mine out it makes you leg muscles not feel strained after a short trip. Holding that stiff peddle down all day sucks and like you said hard to control. What beadlocks you planing to run? You say you over did it on the IP tune I take it you gou the 110 pump how many turns you do? I have mine set 2 over It smokes alot but my EGT's are still in check. What water meth system you looking at installing I still havent found a genaric system that will work without a boost controler?

I made three of the same spring they work very nice, makes driving you pride and joy a lot more fun. I post a pick of the spring when I have a chance
 

·
Registered
1987 416 Doka
Joined
·
651 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
What a difference the IP adjustment made for my power. I will try to fit some softer throttle springs like Snow mogg suggested, but I am going to fab some brackets and install a full cable throttle system (probably something from Summit racing), so that will be the real solution. It will also let me tilt the cab with no problems - but the real benefit comes once I inflate the air-ride bags for the cab suspension. I can't have mechanical linkage bouncing the throttle with the cab...

As for the little vandals, I'm still working on that one, but I have some leads. Some pathetic parent is going to pay - one way or another!:bash:

The snorkel is too restrictive (plumbing diameter), so I left it off. I might even remove it completely, since it is not being used. I have to take a look at the mog without it to see if I like it or not.

I need to make a modification to my air intake, so I can disconnect it for cab-tilting purposes - but once I get that done, I will raise the cab and take lots of pics for you all. I am also going to cut and re-weld my shifters so I don't hit my doghouse and passenger seat. I REALLY want to do the high speed reverse gear thing - but I'm too chicken!
 

·
Registered
1976 406 w/ backhoe and dozer blade, a small collection of implements too
Joined
·
1,416 Posts
Of course I don't know how your throttle is set up, but mine has a rubber nub on the pedal that may have preteneded to be a roller thirty years ago, but now it's just a stiff piece of rubber and makes for rough throttle control (especially off road). I've pondered the spring change, but also have considered replacing the nub with with a roller bearing thinking that it will smooth things out. Thoughts on this approach? They are cheap at the local hardware store. No need for Timkin or anything like that.
 

·
Registered
85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
Joined
·
5,009 Posts
Brad (Needamog) has a write up here on upgrading to a push pull cable setup on his 416. As everything Brad does is very well thought out, I recommend you check his setup out before you buy anything.
 

·
Registered
1987 416 Doka
Joined
·
651 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Britbike, I believe mine has a roller already - it's rudimentary and my mog is an '87, but with the cab lift, I had to extend the aperture arm so the roller would contact the plate it pushes on to work all the mechanical linkage. The plate and all the linkage is attached to the engine, so the throttle works when the cab and engine parts are in contact, ie, the roller must touch the plate. I think it is a pretty cleaver design which enables cab tilting and all, but it does NOT work with air ride cab suspensions, because the cab is constantly moving - which would impact the contact between the roller and plate.

Long explanation I know, but the second part of my particular "stiff pedal" problem comes from the extension I had to welded in. I have a normal throttle pedal travel distance, but much greater leverage at the other end of the pedal, at the roller/plate area.

I think softer spring would certainly help me, but I am going with a 48" throttle cable so my linkage is unaffected by the cab suspension travel. In your case, greasing the roller/plate area will really help, as will softer springs.

Bryan
 

·
Registered
1976 406 w/ backhoe and dozer blade, a small collection of implements too
Joined
·
1,416 Posts
Thanks Bryan and K.C., I see your points and re-read the thread (had seen it the first time around, but it didn't stick in my memory). I have to work out any implications this may create for my other remote throttle (for backhoe / rear implement control)., but none come to mind right now. If I make any usefull progress, I'll share.
 

·
Registered
1970 406 Unimog with 9'2" Boss V-Plow....... 1974 404 Unimog Rock Crawler
Joined
·
874 Posts
I think softer spring would certainly help me, but I am going with a 48" throttle cable so my linkage is unaffected by the cab suspension travel. In your case, greasing the roller/plate area will really help, as will softer springs.

Bryan
Bryan, check out Needamog's Push-Pull-Throttle-Cable-Mod thread... Some good info there.

Changing out the throttle return spring on my 406 completely cured my stiff pedal. It was so bad my foot would practically go to sleep holding the "pedal to the metal" when using full throttle on long steep grades!
 

·
Registered
85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
Joined
·
5,009 Posts
Bryan, check out Needamog's Push-Pull-Throttle-Cable-Mod thread... Some good info there.

Changing out the throttle return spring on my 406 completely cured my stiff pedal. It was so bad my foot would practically go to sleep holding the "pedal to the metal" when using full throttle on long steep grades!
That's the one! :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
U1300L Turbo x 3
Joined
·
754 Posts
One solution that works is to replace all the pivot points with bronze bushings, adjust the position of the engine side pedal pivot, and replace the crappy secondary throttle foot wheel (nylon spinner on a stick) with a wheel that has a real ball bearing in it.

This doesn't show all of it, but it worked well enough that you can feel the tractor governor pulse and push back on your foot, and also gave the go pedal about the same effort as a honda civic.


Bryan, check out Needamog's Push-Pull-Throttle-Cable-Mod thread... Some good info there.

Changing out the throttle return spring on my 406 completely cured my stiff pedal. It was so bad my foot would practically go to sleep holding the "pedal to the metal" when using full throttle on long steep grades!
 
1 - 20 of 330 Posts
Top