Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
1959 411.110
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of removing the front axle from my 411 for a transmission output seal replacement and have hit a wall.
I have removed the steering arm, control arm, unbolted the springs from the bottom, removed the shock absorbers and have removed the 6 bolts in the thrust ball housing.

The instructions basically say that I'm to remove the axle at this point, but the thrust ball housing is stuck behind the transmission casing. I'm able to move the housing a couple of inches and can see the bolts holding the drive shaft in place but I can't get the axle to roll forward since the thrust ball housing can't clear the transmission.

In the attached picture the part of the thrust ball housing at the top where the bolt is installed in the spot that's stuck. It won't go past the transmission housing that is visible in the top right.

Do I need to jack the front end of the truck way up so that torque tube dangles and the housing can possibly clear the transmission?

I must be doing something wrong, does anyone have any ideas?

thanks

Ross

2605980
 

·
Premium Member
U-1300, 3 ea 406, 3 ea 404, Haflinger, 2 ea LMTV.
Joined
·
87 Posts
That two-piece clamp around the thrust tube ball should come apart and come off before the thrust tube moves. That is two pieces in every mog I ever saw, held together by a cross bolt in each end. Are you saying this is one piece? 411 could be different. Once the two-piece clamp is off then the thrust tube slides down the driveshaft far enough to get to the 6 bolts that hold the driveshaft on the transmission flange.

If that clamp is one piece, then I have no ideas.
 

·
Registered
---
Joined
·
411 Posts
The 404 (and I think the 401/411) use a 1-piece collar.

On the 404 at least, because the torque tube forms part of the suspension, you need to jack the truck up and support it by the frame. Once supported, you can pull the entire axle forward, which will unseat the torque tube ball end allowing the ball and collar to move forward/slightly to the side just enough to get a wrench in and undo the bolts on the drive shaft. A come-along may be necessary to pull the axle forward.
 

·
Registered
1959 411.110
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yes the collar is one piece. I was able to get it apart by jacking the front of the truck up pretty high.


2606208
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
9,589 Posts
Great looking UNIMOG.

Do you happen to know the RAL code for the red wheels ? Just out of curiosity and to cross reference it with other online information.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
1959 411.110
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Does anyone have this tool? It's part number 401 589 01 33 00

Can be seen at 1:27 in the Expedition Imports video:

2607558
 

·
Registered
1959 411.110
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I contacted Expedition Imports last week but haven't heard back yet though I've heard from other folks that they're not renting tools anymore. The kicker is that I have half of the tool needed but I'm missing the part of the tool that screws on the output shaft.

I've tried to get the output flange off the output shaft using a harmonic balancer puller. The flange is moving relative to the shaft but it seems that the output shaft is being pushed into the transmission housing ... which I assume isn't good.
 

·
Registered
1959 411.110
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
So the whole bearing flange assembly and output flange came off together. I was applying pressure to the output flange with a gear puller when the 2 countersunk screws that hold on the bearing flange pulled through the holes, then the entire assembly came off the output shaft as a complete unit.


2607738


2607739
 

·
Registered
1959 411.110
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I've made some progress on the seal replacement. I got the output flange pressed out of the bearing flange, replaced the seal and have reinstalled the bearing flange assembly but I'm now struggling to get the output flange on the output shaft. I need to rig up something with good pushing power since the flange and shaft are a tight fit. There's an MB tool for this task but I can't find it anywhere. I tried threading a bolt into the center hole and using a nut to push the flange on but got no where.

Any suggestions?

2610835
 

·
Registered
---
Joined
·
411 Posts
To get the output shaft thru the front bearing? Or get the output flange (which the U-joint bolts to) onto the shaft?

When I replaced seals, repairing a 419 transmission, I froze the shaft with dry ice so it would side into the front output cover bearing. (Did the same to get the front bearing into the cover plate.)



To get the output flange on you can try using a large steel bar with 3 holes. Put a bolt thru either end of the bar and into the transmission housing, straddling the output. Then a third bolt thru a threaded hole in the center of the bar to push the flange on.
 

·
Registered
1988 U1300L RW1 Working gears Mogauspuf Dual Tanks Other Goodies 91 F250 HD 4x4
Joined
·
136 Posts
I've made some progress on the seal replacement. I got the output flange pressed out of the bearing flange, replaced the seal and have reinstalled the bearing flange assembly but I'm now struggling to get the output flange on the output shaft. I need to rig up something with good pushing power since the flange and shaft are a tight fit. There's an MB tool for this task but I can't find it anywhere. I tried threading a bolt into the center hole and using a nut to push the flange on but got no where.

Any suggestions?
I have built several pushers / pullers, and have found that friction of the face of the "crank-down" nut on the steel plate can be disruptive. I have gravitated to using a ball-bearing thrust bearing under the nut, separated by a thick (sometimes precision) washer, so the nut contact is distributed evenly on the thrust bearing. Definitely helps, maybe not enough in this case. Try McMaster-Carr, if you want to give it a go, and the locals can't supply. Also, be sure to use a grade 10.9 or 12.9 metric bolt, as softer bolts will gall the threads under heavy loading while trying to turn (and never use stainless, it is even worse fo galling).
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top