Today I installed the links that were missing from my truck to connect the rear torsion bar to the axle. I tried to position the torsion bar arms similar to most automobiles I have seen (arms parrallel to the ground) but I could not make the links fit in that position . So I installed the links the only way that I could make them fit. Please take a peek and tell me if I installed them in the correct or incorrect position.
That's not going to do it, it will limit travel more than anything. The arm from the bar should be pointing to the back and slightly down, and the link up to it. I think the arms are specific to each side, maybe they are on the wrong sides? I will PM you about the leftover bits, the one I got from Von needs some more pieces to make it complete.
That is what I thought too. Only problem is that when the arms of the torsion bar are parrallel to the ground they contact the coil spring when connecting the links. I could not make them fit that way, not enough clearance. Photos of yours would be a big help.
I believe the larger links are specific to each side, as I seem to recall their having different shapes. This is supported by the fact that there are two separate part numbers listed in the catalog, although it does not specify right/left. The smaller links should be interchangeable from side to side.
I believe the larger links are specific to each side, as I seem to recall their having different shapes. This is supported by the fact that there are two separate part numbers listed in the catalog, although it does not specify right/left. The smaller links should be interchangeable from side to side.
"larger links" ????
Do you mean the arms on the torsion bar ?
Yes the torsion bar arms are different from side to side - one is straight, one is bowed.
However the steel 8" long links (the ones you sent me) appear to be identical from side to side.
Like I said earlier, when I rotate the torsion bar to the position shown in your photos I cannot get the arms high enough to attach the links. They hit the coil spring.
I did not jack the mog up during today's attempt to install the links. Maybe if I jack the mog up I can get the necessary clearance to position the torison bar arms as shown in your photo. However, it seems that the arms and attached links would hit the coil springs during suspension travel while driving.
I'll give it another try soon.
Affirmative, larger links Mountain/Trip-speak for torsion arms. I take a closer look later and see if I can think of anything. Anyone else have any experience fitting these into place, thoughts as to why they would be problematic to install?
Sorry - I went outside to snap some pics of my setup, but the combination of below-zero temps and -30 windchill, plus all the other crap in the way on my truck (fenders, trailer air tank, aux fuel tank) made it impossible.
Some observations:
As shown in MogMountains pics, the small links are installed in the vertical plane on both sides. The cast links from the torsion bar are almost parallel to the frame when they leave the torsion bar mount and arc down to ~45 degrees from the frame (edit - at least on the road side - didn't look hard enough at the off side), where they attached to the vertical small links.
By the looks of your first pictures, those cast links don't look 'right' -or- maybe you need to flip the castings over ?? Mind you, I'm looking at a 416 set-up. Maybe the 406's are different.
I think Keith has the right idea. I just went out and stared at the mounting location for the bar on my truck, there is only one way to set it up. The links are the same, L and R. The arms are the only thing that is different, maybe the PO had it apart, and reassembled it wrong, and that is why it wasn't finished. I'm going to my shop soon, and will check the pile o'parts against the Case manual, and post back what arm is supposed to be on what side. When I last ordered the pivots and seals for mine, I recall that there were early and late versions of the assembly (regarding the pivots), not sure if there could have been differences with the other hardware also? FWIW, my supplier confirmed that the 406 bar would fit the 416, and I have had mine (from a Case 406 thanks Von) loosely installed in my 416, and though clearance was tight, it did fit. Realizing that I may have made this more confusing, signing off.
Here are the pics of the two arms, the case manual labels them as "links", one part# starts 406, the other 416. The parts list states one of each per assembly, so I assume they are left and right, the diagram doesn't show. And, I can't find and part#s stamped. Anyway, here is the difference.
Make sure the mounting plates are properly oriented (plates bolted to the frame). From the pictures they appear to be oriented with the curved side down, which is the same as on my 406. However my parts manual shows the curved side oriented upwards. It appears there would be a slight difference in the height of the torsion bar between the two orientations, and thus this might account for your problem.
I'll admit I'm scratching my head a bit, but it's got to be something which once discovered will leave us saying "Duh!"
The solution was to rotate the coil spring to gain clearance.
The torsion bar and links are installed correctly now.
properly positioned torsion bar links and arms
The only remaining issue is what material is best to make the seals (large rubber washers) to keep dirt and water out of the ball joints on the arm and link ends. I tried neoprene but it is too soft and gets caught in the threads of the bolts on installation. Or maybe there is a part available from another application that will work for this. Any suggestions ?
My experience with nylon is that it is kind of hard (not soft).
Could you explain the seal material just a bit better since I want to try and make some. Any photos ?
Steve,
You can order the seals alone and they are not much (but I forget how much!) They are unique in design and do work. I always just put new ones in. They are like a closed cell hard foam with a cross grove in them.
Steve,
You can order the seals alone and they are not much (but I forget how much!) They are unique in design and do work. I always just put new ones in. They are like a closed cell hard foam with a cross grove in them.
Up to now I have yet to order a single Mog part from a "conventional" type business.
So what do I do ?
Walk into the local Mercedes car dealer with the part numbers or... ?
Seems like everyone around here gets all funny when I mention "unimog."
I'm in the process of removing the front axle from my 411 for a transmission output seal replacement and have hit a wall.
I have removed the steering arm, control arm, unbolted the springs from the bottom, removed the shock absorbers and have removed the 6 bolts in the thrust ball housing.
The...
Looking at a Unimog 405/12 U 400 on Vebeg and notices in one of the pics, what look to be lights on the undersides of the seat arms?? Is that just another option for ?? Anyone have some insight into this?
Would anyone be interested in starting a data set of a 5/6/7/8 gear pull from stop on level ground time test....a unimog 1/4 mile time sort of thing!
More for fun, in a tractor pulling sort of way ;)
Hi, I am new to this site but could really use some advice. I am looking at a Unimog U100L, but this 5 cylinder 2.9L diesel (OM602) has no turbo and sounds underpowered. I have asked around about options for adding a turbo, but apparently not so easy. What are my alternatives? Replace the engine...
My 1300L speedometer is in kilometers and I would like to have MPH. I checked into having face changed to have both MPH and KPH, but it was pricy. A new unit with MPH from M-B is very pricy. I prefer the speedometer to a GPS alternative. Any solutions you'd care to share?
BenzWorld.org forum is one of the largest Mercedes-Benz owner websites offering the most comprehensive collection of Mercedes-Benz information anywhere in the world. The site includes MB Forums, News, Galleries, Publications, Classifieds, Events and much more!
