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1972 Pinzgauer 710m, 1989 JDM Toyota Landcruiser BJ74 RHD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finaly got the charging system on my 404 working. Replaced regulator with a rebuilt unit from Expedition Imports. I was wondering if it is normal for the charge light to stay on when the vehicle is first started until the engine is reved up a little? It has also come on occasionaly when at low idle for a few minutes and then goes out as soon as the revs are brought up?

The other question is, can I run a second set of batteries in parallel to the 2 it already has and then charge them all off the generator with out isolating 2 at a time?
 

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'62 Swiss 404
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145 Posts
Yes and yes, though it is advisable to have all 4 batteries the same as different batteries will charge at different rates...
 

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1969 Swiss 404 - 1977 Porsche 911 S
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Minimog 401,

Yes, mine behaves exactly the same way you describe. I would say you're good to go.

I agree with GonzoAU re. batteries.

Michelin 340/80R20 (12.5R20) XMCL's are being installed on mine right now. I can hardly wait to try 'em out!

Photo's soon.
 

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1972 Pinzgauer 710m, 1989 JDM Toyota Landcruiser BJ74 RHD
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195 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The reason for the extra batteries is I am headed to the mountians for the weekend and I want to mount my 12v winch just in case. I was planning on running it off the 2 extra batteries. I would have to disconnect them from the charging system switch them over to a parallel 12v set up and attach the winch. Then after unhook the winch, wire the batteries back to series 24v set up and then hook them back up to the main batteries and charging system in parallel. Would the difference in charge on the 2 different sets of batteries cause problems? It doesn't seem to me, hooking them up this way is any different then hooking up to give someone a boost.
 

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1969 Swiss 404 - 1977 Porsche 911 S
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148 Posts
No, its not a big deal, especially for a non-permanent set up like you describe.

Sometime batteries of different manufacture can discharge each other slowly over time when connected in parallel. Its just a good practice to match up batteries that will be working together.

I wouldn't worry about it at all for a weekend trip.
 

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1972 Pinzgauer 710m, 1989 JDM Toyota Landcruiser BJ74 RHD
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195 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cool, thanks Twotone,

I was looking at the way my generator is mounted and the way the belt tensioner clamp and the nut it goes around are set up on the threaded rod and it seems like they are upside down? would it not make more sense if they were flipped over the other way, so the clamp is being forced onto the nut rather then pulling away from it? However if it was flipped over it looks like it might be hard to tighten the nut. Is this the proper set up?

By the way Twotone, the guy we purchased our mogs from, has made things right with me by paying for the voltage regulator. I don't think he was the one who removed the charging light indicator bulb but perhaps a lazy mechanic he had working on it.

Isn't that your second set of tires already?? To many smoke shows in the parking lot I am guessing :)
 

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1969 Swiss 404 - 1977 Porsche 911 S
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However if it was flipped over it looks like it might be hard to tighten the nut. Is this the proper set up?
I'll check mine when it comes back from the tire shop later today.

By the way Twotone, the guy we purchased our mogs from, has made things right with me by paying for the voltage regulator. I don't think he was the one who removed the charging light indicator bulb but perhaps a lazy mechanic he had working on it.
That's good news. Nice to know he followed through on it.

Isn't that your second set of tires already?? To many smoke shows in the parking lot I am guessing :)
What can I say, I have a tire 'problem'.....

These ones should be the last set I need for quite some time though.
 

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'88 U-1300L, '70 406, '78 406, '78 416 project, '82 406, '57 404, '65 404, '70 404, '68 Haflinger.
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The tension adjuster is in the normal configuration. The small nut is just a locking nut, and the larger nut does the adjusting. The larger nut has an extension that fits in a slot in the block and 'pulls' it to tension the belt. Note also that the horizontal bolt, the one with the head forward, has to be loosened to allow the adjustment nut to rotate in the block. If not loosened, adjustment is tough! IMHO, having the adjuster nuts on top like they are facilitates using a ratchet instead of turning the nut a flat at a time, really a smartly engineered device!

Bob
 

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'62 Unimog 404
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132 Posts
Cool, thanks Twotone,

I was looking at the way my generator is mounted and the way the belt tensioner clamp and the nut it goes around are set up on the threaded rod and it seems like they are upside down? would it not make more sense if they were flipped over the other way, so the clamp is being forced onto the nut rather then pulling away from it? However if it was flipped over it looks like it might be hard to tighten the nut. Is this the proper set up?
The bolt through the pinch block is what really sets the tensioner position. The nut on top is really just a jam nut to prevent the adjuster nut thingy from moving. This might help explain it but it does seem like it would be more functional if the nut was under the pinch block.
 

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'62 Unimog 404
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Drat! Bob beat me to it with a much better description. At least I had a diagram (shamefully leached from Scott). Stay tuned for another thread with my own generator issues.
 

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'88 U-1300L, '70 406, '78 406, '78 416 project, '82 406, '57 404, '65 404, '70 404, '68 Haflinger.
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Hey Pat, you win with the diagram!
 

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63 UNIMOG S404.115
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I want to mount my 12v winch just in case. I was planning on running it off the 2 extra batteries. I would have to disconnect them from the charging system switch them over to a parallel 12v set up and attach the winch. Then after unhook the winch, wire the batteries back to series 24v set up and then hook them back up to the main batteries and charging system in parallel.

Minimog,

Use a isolating solenoid (smart solenoid) between the start batteries and winch / aux batteries. Cheap enough and easily available in the US from off road or RV shops. This will isolate the second bank until the start bank reaches a set voltage after you start and will disconnect the second bank if the start bank voltage drops below a set value during charging. If you have used your winch then the potential difference between the two banks could be significant.

The standard MOG generator will only charge at a relatively slow rate whilst providing the ignition and running load so it could be a long process to get all 4 batteries balanced and even then you'll probably only be at 70% capacity, one of the design deficincies in a standard auto charging system. I take it you aren't using deep cycle batteries so I wouldn't expect too much from the start type batteries without a HD alternator punching in the power whilst the winch is running.
 

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With two batteries there is the chance of them having different voltages and charging at different rates, the result one battery prematurely failing. This is especially common if you are running 12V accessories of one of the batterries.

However, you can get a Battery Equalizer which sits between the two batteries and prevents this. Redarc in Australia make one, which will also allow you to run a thrid single (12V) battery. It manages the equzlization of the 2 batterries for 24V and manages the charge to teh third 12V battery.
 
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