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'87 U1300l, '69 Swiss 404
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Hi everyone,

I'm preparing to rebuild the cab of a 404 and could use some advice on which welder type to purchase. TIG appears to be the best option, followed by MIG, but I could really use the advice of those who have already been there and done it.

Thanks in advance,

Patrick
 

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1965 404
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I MIG, TIG, and SMAW thin sheet with varying levels of competency.... So I suppose it really depends on what your current level of welding ability is and what equipment you have to work with. Stick is probably out as its pretty hard to do that thin.

MIG and TIG are both options. MIG will be much faster, tolerate unclean metal better, but require a lot of grinding. Basically you do lots and lots of spot welds stitching the field together, followed by short backstepping beads spread all around to prevent severe warping, and lots of grinding in between and afterward. Generally .025 or .030 wire, running hot compared with what you'd run a continuous bead at.

TIG is much cleaner, again with spots followed by backstepping. It produces a clean weld that requires much less finish grinding, but is much slower and intolerant to contaminates. Having a machine with built in pulse function (or good skill with a foot pedal) helps a lot.
 

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I believe snorkels are for dust, to get the air intake up out of the clouds near the roadbed. OTH tucks always have them, or at least they did.

Back on topic: I have a number of uses for a welder, but no skills. My quick search on eBay says the price range may put me in the market. I do not have 220v in the garage now, but I can cover that.
Are any of the 110v versions worth considering?
thanks
 

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1965 404
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Appreciate everyone's advice, personal experience, and photos. Hope my project turns out as well as everyone else's did.

A few things to add:

Canvas loops:
If you are tossing old skin and it has these welded on, save them. Some pieces don't come with them installed, and they are kind of pricey...I think around 7 bucks a piece. Be mindful of where they go in relation to the top you plan on using. I welded them on per locations of my old top, but when I replaced it with a newer rubberized canvas one, some of them were slightly off.

Windshield brackets:
Pay attention to where they are mounted to maintain a smooth fold and adjust accordingly. The holes on mine were drilled larger than the fasteners, so when I drilled through the skin and installed them, the windshield didn't lay down smoothly. I cracked a pane because of this. Tweaking was necessary.

Fenders (if you replace these too):
Mine looked like they had been removed and re-installed so many times previously that there were multiple holes for the hardware along with broken rusty screws in the frame. I had no idea where the original holes were supposed to go. Since all of the screws had to be drilled out, I welded all the holes shut and started over. Lined up the locations with the new fender holes and installed them using bolts instead of screws. There must have been something different somewhere, because I noted that I had difficulty installing my spare tire when all was done. I now have to partially remove the fender in order to get it on and off the mount.

Right side skin above fender:
There's a small triangular shaped cutout where I matched the new skin to the frame in the area of the under seat tool box. I wasn't really paying attention when I did this. If you want a factory look...don't do that...otherwise you will have this nice little "hole" above your fender at the gasket. Nobody ever notices it unless I point it out. I see it every. single. day.

Having said all that....It's not rocket surgery, so have fun with it.
 

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I have a number of uses for a welder, but no skills. My quick search on eBay says the price range may put me in the market. I do not have 220v in the garage now, but I can cover that.
Are any of the 110v versions worth considering?
thanks
I actually considered using a 110V unit when I was in the market for a welder. I decided against it because I had plans for other fabrication jobs that might have required welding on thick metal and I wanted the versatility. For re-skinning a mog, or any light home use welding, a 110 unit should work just fine.

As for the skill part: I took a welding class in A&P school, and had very limited exposure to a stick welder before that, but there is no way that I would consider myself anything other than a shade tree hacker that's lucky to be able to produce much better than a "dirt dauber" weld. A "roll of nickels" isn't really something that's gonna happen. This was my first gas welder, and I learned on the go. The "cheat sheet" under the side cover was a life saver. Pro tip - a grinder, orbital sander and lots of filler primer will make it look great!
 

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Back on topic: I have a number of uses for a welder, but no skills. My quick search on eBay says the price range may put me in the market. I do not have 220v in the garage now, but I can cover that.
Are any of the 110v versions worth considering?
thanks
Currently having 4 welders and a plasma cutter (all older MIllers at the moment), my opinion has always been that 120V machines were simply too anemic to get stuff done, 240V is really needed and makes a world of difference. I had a Lincoln 175 machine (flux core) for a short time and it was really hard to get enough heat into a weld quickly enough to burn in/clear flux from the weld pool without camping out and piling up bird poop. Once the part was hot enough it ran OK. My dad has since converted the 175 to gas and says it works better, but I haven;t had a chance to try. A 240V MIG machine made a world of difference to be able to just spot and weld.

That being said, I have heard that the new (last couple years) MIller Multivolt machines and the Everlast do alright on 120v, but I haven't personally used them. I really dislike Everlast because their resellers to crap all over online forums (Craigslist/etc.) to sell the units, but that has nothing to do with the welder performance. If you do decide to go 120V, you really should have a 120V 20A circuit (with appropriate 20A outlet) to run the welder. If you can swing a 240V 20A or 30A outlet (even putting it at the panel and then running 100' of extension cord), it will make all the difference.
 

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2015 Rubicon Unlimited (Let the shame be upon me!)
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If it's just sheet work you plan to do a 110v mig wouldn't be a bad choice. Fluxcore wire is good for "has to work" repairs or situations where you have the access and time to wire wheel it all clean once you are done. It's also helpful for outdoor work where shielding gas will just blow away. Gas shielded will give you clean welds with a little practice and minimal clean up.

If you see more things in the future using heavier materials a 240v unit is key as 110v units even at maximum can't put the BTU into the material fast enough to keep torch and wire speed correct and not look like "dog turds".

There is a guy on youtube, ChuckE2009, https://www.youtube.com/user/ChuckE2009 , he has a host of good videos reviewing a lot of equipment. Also useful for learing the sound of a good combination of power, wire speed and torch speed; like tight AM static.
 

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Came across this video which shows a very good example of what and how with flux core and the results you can get.


If you have the access to do the clean up, it is a good option
 

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I have a Lincloln 180HD (it's the home depot version), it's a 220V, and it does pretty well for what I'm doing (build thread link is in my sig below).
I have run fluxcore with it for metal >1/2", but that's rare for me to weld stuff that thick.
I also have a Miller 375Xtreme plasma cutter, and I'd say it's a pretty good combo. I WISH I had bougt the plasma cutter first thing - it's SO nice compared to my grider and cut-off wheels....
The downside of my 180HD is that it does not allow for smooth power adjustments. It has the "click-dial" adjustments and sometimes the lower setting is not enough, but he next step up is too much! I haven't really looked into trying to swap for a different switch like the non-HD version has, I just work with what I got and do just fine with it in reality
Wire size and speed are just as key as the power setting for MIG welding, so play with it until the weld is what you want.
I have no experience with TIG, and stick welding is just not something I want to do!
 
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