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I have been using a torque wrench on alloy wheels for many years. On steel wheels with lug nuts I just use an impact or the grunt method.
 

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Come on over to the tire places around my neck of the woods... bring earplugs because the sound produced by the chorus of the impact wrenches is defining.

When I have tire places mount my tires I loosen the lugs when I get home and then retighten them with my own impact wrench. Years of experience have honed my skill at getting the torque just right plus or minus 20 or so ft/lbs. hehehe.
 

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I have been using a torque wrench on alloy wheels for many years. On steel wheels with lug nuts I just use an impact or the grunt method.
I own 3 Harbor Freight click type torque wrenches... the only one I trust is the 1/2" drive but only for torque settings over 50 ft/lbs. The 3/8" drive accuracy is highly questionable and 1/4" drive is utterly useless.
Time to spend some money and get some decent torque wrenches... maybe if I trusted their accuracy I might use them more.
 

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I own 3 Harbor Freight click type torque wrenches... the only one I trust is the 1/2" drive but only for torque settings over 50 ft/lbs. The 3/8" drive accuracy is highly questionable and 1/4" drive is utterly useless.
Time to spend some money and get some decent torque wrenches... maybe if I trusted their accuracy I might use them more.
I have three torque wrenches (1/4, 3/8, 1/2). I think they are from Princess Auto in Canada, but one may be from HF. All are of course from China.
Last year, I had head off a Yanmar diesel. The 6 head bolts needed to be to tightened evenly to 116 ft-lbs. I found that the 1/2" I had was short and I had trouble tightening to those torques. I borrowed a Craftsman torque wrench from my neighbor. It was longer and in the end I mostly used that. I also got one on a free loan from Canadian Tire. It was the best of the three, but I could only keep it for a short time. There was some torque variance in the three. Not much, but probably in 10% range. If buying a new 1/2", I would get a longer one than the one I now have. A digital would be nice. With any of these, for critical work (like my head bolts) a means of calibration could be important.
 

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A few years back I needed to change one of the pistons inside one of the main lift hydraulic tubes on my skid steer. Getting the old piston off required the removal of a nut that was about 1 1/4" that wouldn't budge. I used my 2 foot breaker bar with my 4 ft. floor jack pump handle as an extension and was able to remove it but when it came to tightening the new one I was lost.

The spec called for torque to 200 ft/lbs but I didn't have a torque wrench that went that high so I did the next best thing. At the time I weighed 200 lbs, so I git my 2 foot breaker bar, clamped the tube in my bench vice, grabbed the breaker bar 1 foot from the center line if the socket and lifted myself off the ground using the breaker bar as a chin bar. When the nut stopped tightening, I called it 200 foot/lbs and never looked back. :)
 
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