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Registered
300SL24v. 1992; Rolls Royce Silver Shadow 1975; Volvo 164 1970.
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The handbrake of my car is giving me trouble (caused by wheelnuts)...need to remove the brake disk to get inside. Now i've bought a 30 mm. key that fits the rear axle nut, but this seems very tight.
Flushed with "crawling-oil", but still tight. Now i want to heat the nut with a burner.

Is this the wright way to work? Thanks!
 

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1997 SL600
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203 Posts
sorry my car is newer and may be different but you did remove the stake on that nut right? Otherwise NFW that thing is coming off heat or no heat
 

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Moderator
SL55, 300SE, GL450, Daytona 955i
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10,293 Posts
Why are you taking the axle nut to remove the rotor?

also the axle nut has locking wings that need to be bent out of the way, before you can remove it, and it is near impossible without an impact gun, unless you have a one mile long breaker bar...

but then again, why are you removing it? the rotor can be removed without removing that nut, and all of the ebrake components are behind the rotor...
 

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Registered
300SL24v. 1992; Rolls Royce Silver Shadow 1975; Volvo 164 1970.
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
1992 SL wheel nut

Thanks for the replies.

I have no air compressor so can't use this kind of impact tool.
The locking wing is opened.
So far i have tried with a wrench tool with an arm of about 40 cm. To use the 150 cm. extending pipe is still an option....
But i prefer to heaten the nut with a burner to get it loose so i can't slip on the nut and destroy it. Is this the wright working sequense??

P.s. I don't understand about rotor. does mine have one on the axle? I believe there's one under the hood:thumbsup:.
 

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Moderator
SL55, 300SE, GL450, Daytona 955i
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10,293 Posts
If you need to remove the brake rotor (brake disk), why are you removing the axle nut?
 

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Registered
300SL24v. 1992; Rolls Royce Silver Shadow 1975; Volvo 164 1970.
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Are you sure the nut is not holding the disc? I had no notion...:eek:
 

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Moderator
SL55, 300SE, GL450, Daytona 955i
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10,293 Posts
Absolutely not man... take off the 5mm hex bolt (screw) in the rotor, and pull the rotor out...
 

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Administrator
1998 Pano SL500; 1993 SL500; 2005 ML270cdi
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8,841 Posts
Absolutely not man... take off the 5mm hex bolt (screw) in the rotor, and pull the rotor out...
Agreed, you don't need to remove the 30mm nut.

As bayhas states, remove the 5mm Allen bolt, and the disc/rotor will come away.
It does help to spray an easing oil around the hub joint, then tap with a hammer and pull at the same time.
Make sure your foot or leg isn't underneath because it can suddenly spring off the hub :thumbsup:
 

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Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
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8,391 Posts
On the opposite side there is a small access HOLE.
Get a small screwdriver to loosen the parking brake adjusting nut.

The car sides are different some are left some are right threaded.
Then pull the disc out.

That's easy right? :)

Regards,
aam.
 

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Registered
300SL24v. 1992; Rolls Royce Silver Shadow 1975; Volvo 164 1970.
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
1992 SL wheel nut

Good news, the problem is solved for now and the car back on the road (much better than a Saab 9-3 Convertible brr).

After the brake-caliper came off and the rotor came off a little spring flew out. This spring was damaged by to long wheelbolts. The underside of the handbrake-shoe was loose and had whipped aside against the rotorinside, making a terrible sqeecking noise...see picture please.

I had to take out most of the rest of the handbrakeshoeset. (a new fitting kit is just been ordered on EBAY at 7,99 GBP :thumbsup:).

Thanks for helping me out again; much appreciated!!

Hemmo

The Netherlands.
 

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Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
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8,391 Posts
You got it.
I am glad for you.
Don't forget to after adjust it.

Regards,
aam.
 

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300 SL
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31 Posts
I had the rear parking brakes replaced recently. In order to get the axle nut off, you need a 33mm socket and make sure you don't have the parking brakes on!
 
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