Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

21 - 40 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
300 CE 24V Sportline
Joined
·
905 Posts
Rowdie, this is where I'm at, front of barrel/shroud removed much better access to wire passage used thicker wire jiggled for hours still no joy. Any suggestions? I can see down wire channel there does not appear to be any lug to lift.
Does your "wire" have a bevelled end, on the inner edge, so that it slides over the spring clip and pushes it down to release?

I had no luck with a thin coat hanger , it was too thick. I found a thinner welding rod and filed that down to the required profile.

RayH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I had tried thick and thin bevelled edge for days before the drastic action today of grinding off face of barrel. Have tried again with thick and thin bevelled edge wire. Any suggestions now, I have heard of drilling out the barrel if I do what does that do. Welcome your ideas.
Regards
 

·
R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
Joined
·
32,169 Posts
Does your "wire" have a bevelled end, on the inner edge, so that it slides over the spring clip and pushes it down to release?

I had no luck with a thin coat hanger , it was too thick. I found a thinner welding rod and filed that down to the required profile.

RayH
Wrong tumbler. Bevel is not needed. The 107 does not operate like that. See post #16.
 

·
R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
Joined
·
32,169 Posts
Rowdie, this is where I'm at, front of barrel/shroud removed much better access to wire passage used thicker wire jiggled for hours still no joy. Any suggestions? I can see down wire channel there does not appear to be any lug to lift.
It looks like you have exposed the necessary area. Try wire in this hole.

P3240001.JPG

EDIT: 4/5/2020 I WAS WRONG. SEE POST #17.
 

·
CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
Joined
·
40,196 Posts
I have been where you are. You can try slipping the steering wheel back on and rotating it back and forth while keeping slight pressure on the key. If it ever goes further do not return to off. Other suggestions I received were try a different key, and vibrate. Nothing worked and I ended cutting and grinding for two days with a Dremmel tool. I'll snap a couple of pics later to show how the wire works.
+ 1 I even attached the valet key to an old electric tooth brush, jitterbug sanders have strong vibrations, anything to get a few tumblers to drop one more time so the the key turns. It took me 3 days of several hours a day of slightly moving the steering wheel from 'lock' and trying to turn the key.
When it finally happened, I was surprised and almost turned the key back. Should this happen to you, don't turn back the key but disconnect battery.
Instead of leaving the ends of the U wire blunt, it helps to file them to an angle (see pic), to insert all the way (once the key turns to pos 1).
The first wire was too soft, something stiffer. Bicycle spoke or knitting needle should work.






ignition tumbler piks (2).jpg
.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Tried still no joy, and it looks like small hole would not be accessible when face place on. Next
Thanks Rowdie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
+ 1 I even attached the valet key to an old electric tooth brush, jitterbug sanders have strong vibrations, anything to get a few tumblers to drop one more time so the the key turns. It took me 3 days of several hours a day of slightly moving the steering wheel from 'lock' and trying to turn the key.
When it finally happened, I was surprised and almost turned the key back. Should this happen to you, don't turn back the key but disconnect battery.
Instead of leaving the ends of the U wire blunt, it helps to file them to an angle (see pic), to insert all the way (once the key turns to pos 1).
The first wire was too soft, something stiffer. Bicycle spoke or knitting needle should work.






View attachment 2625145 .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Thank you for your input my 1987 300SL RHD has only one hole for wire, I have ground off face of barrel tried with various wires, no joy would appreciate more ideas
 

·
Registered
1989 560 sl
Joined
·
162 Posts
I had the same problem. I tried filing down coat hanger. Using a paper clip nothing worked. So I purchased the correct tool from Mercedes source. And I took about 30 seconds to remove with the right tool.
 

·
R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
Joined
·
32,169 Posts
Key is in correct position
Your key was never in the correct position for removal.

Today I was trying my usual paper clip to release the lug. It did not work on either of the extra 107 assemblies. Checked the manual for correct wire diameter. 1.25 MM. paper clip was 1.0 MM. Searched around the house and found a syringe with long needle. It measured 1.26 MM. Inserted and the cap released. Checked and the smaller wire was no longer forcing the lug all the way flush. Long winded way of saying the wire needs to be the correct length and diameter.

IMG_0519 1.JPG
 

·
R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
Joined
·
32,169 Posts
+ 1 I even attached the valet key to an old electric tooth brush, jitterbug sanders have strong vibrations, anything to get a few tumblers to drop one more time so the the key turns. It took me 3 days of several hours a day of slightly moving the steering wheel from 'lock' and trying to turn the key.
When it finally happened, I was surprised and almost turned the key back. Should this happen to you, don't turn back the key but disconnect battery.
Instead of leaving the ends of the U wire blunt, it helps to file them to an angle (see pic), to insert all the way (once the key turns to pos 1).
The first wire was too soft, something stiffer. Bicycle spoke or knitting needle should work.






View attachment 2625145 .
Wrong tool and wrong tumbler
 

·
Registered
560SL '88 Suzuki GS1000E '78
Joined
·
168 Posts
Hi. congratulations!
Can you tell us what finally the problem was?
You will find most of the required stuff on ebay.com trying "ingnition lock mercedes 107"
Martin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Didn't matter what I tried lock would not come out, I finally drilled in few places destroying everything, now trying to find all new parts as per photos, tried on ebay no luck can anyone suggest a supplier for 1987 107 300SL. RHD
Steering lock - switch - barrel and keys - screw on barrel. Take note of nylon T section in switch
VIN # WDB1070412A071121
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
I think it would be a supplier in germany or UK as 107 300SL not available in USA?
 

·
Registered
1973 450 SL
Joined
·
1,921 Posts
SS100,

Can you see part numbers embossed on any of those parts? If so, post them so we can see if they are common to North American models which opens up a possibility of finding them in the salvage market.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
Thanking you Switch 126 462 00 93 - key barrel --20179 - Steering lock Neiman 160 -
Screw on cover barrel approx 38mm dia. 36mm long would appreciate any leads
 

·
R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
Joined
·
32,169 Posts
I was hoping you didn't have to end up the way I did. My new lock came with the switch attached. Replacement switch does not have the nylon T piece. It was a few years ago but the tumbler to match your VIN was still available. '86-'89 models were the last of the 107s available. Call your local dealer. They can tell you if that is stiil the case. Parts catalog shows different numbers for the RHD lock so also verify part number with the dealer.
 
21 - 40 of 45 Posts
Top