Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hello everyone, I'm new to benzworld and i'm looking for info on the 300 series what is the difference between the 300d 300td turbo w123vs 116 I'm looking for the turbo model 1983-1985 5 cyl I understand the sd is the bigger, luxury version also what type problems do these cars have and are parts expensive thanks Mike
 

·
Registered
Benzless for now...
Joined
·
1,558 Posts
The 300, to the best of my knowledge, was available as a 300D (coupe or sedan with a lower options package), 300SD (sedan with a higher options package), 300CD (coupe with a higher options package), 300TD (wagon, not sure about options packages on the wagon). Some had turbochargers some did not, I imagine after a certain year they were all turbocharged, before a certain year none of them were, and for a period it was probably an option. I would shoot for the turbocharged model as you will most likely want the extra 40 horsepower and probably 40-60 ft/lbs of torque you get from the turbo. A lot of people say the non-turbos aren't as slow as they are made out to be, but the first time you try to pull out into heavy traffic without a turbo you'll wish you had one.


EDIT: all the 300's in any given year were about the same size. Wheelbase and overall length were a bit different between sedan, coupe, and wagon of course.
 

·
Registered
96 E300D
Joined
·
817 Posts
mmeeks1 - 3/3/2005 3:50 PM

hello everyone, I'm new to benzworld and i'm looking for info on the 300 series what is the difference between the 300d 300td turbo w123vs 116 I'm looking for the turbo model 1983-1985 5 cyl I understand the sd is the bigger, luxury version also what type problems do these cars have and are parts expensive thanks Mike
You are right in that the SD is bigger, luxury version. The 300D was either non turbo or turbo depending upon the year. The 12982-9185 were all turbo and the 300TD is a station wagon.

The most expensive problems that they all have is the cruise control and the climate control. Parts can be expensive if you go to the dealer but other places are usually reasonable including German Star
 

·
Registered
Benzless for now...
Joined
·
1,558 Posts
MB-Owner-in-ind - 3/3/2005 5:12 PM

You are right in that the SD is bigger, luxury version.
When you say SD, do you mean the 300SD? Is that one really bigger than a 300D of the same year? I hadn't seen one close enough to notice a difference in size. Got a picture handy? I'm curious what the difference is now. Now I really want an SD! I just wanted one for the heated seats but my 300D is waaaaay too small, if I could get a bigger one I would be so happy.

EDIT: You learn something new every day. I just looked at a picture and the SD is much bigger, I have seen those and just assumed they were newer. I was mislead when I was looking for mine, I saw an '84 300D on cars.com which was listed as an 300SD but it looked the same as the 300D.
 

·
Registered
1991 300 SE
Joined
·
18,534 Posts
The 300 SD is the w126 S Class chassis built from 1981 to 1985. It has the same 5 cylinder turbo (OM 617) as the w123 cars. Starting in 1986 the w126 diesels had six cylinder engines. The w126 S Class chassis was built from 1979 to 1991. The previous S Class chassis, the w116, also used the five cylinder turbo engine, the last w116 300 SD was 1980.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
steve ,what kind of shape is your 300d? is it a turbo? i'm assuming it is how many miles any problems? do you have to plug it in during cold weather? thanks mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
A lot of people say the non-turbos aren't as slow as they are made out to be, but the first time you try to pull out into heavy traffic without a turbo you'll wish you had one.
At low altitudes a non-turbo does pretty good. If you live at high altitudes or in the mountains, the turbo would be a must. With an engine in decent shape, a non-turbo is not a problem in traffic. If you want performance closer to a gas, get a turbo. Also note that the 300SD is a bigger, heavier car, so that the W123 300 should have better acceleration and performance when equipped with the turbo, which was available starting in 1982 on the sedan and coupe, maybe sooner on the wagon (not sure).
 

·
Registered
Benzless for now...
Joined
·
1,558 Posts
mmeeks1 - 3/4/2005 8:40 AM

steve ,what kind of shape is your 300d? is it a turbo? i'm assuming it is how many miles any problems? do you have to plug it in during cold weather? thanks mike
My 300D is in decent shape, it has some rust but not a lot, it is a turbo though and it is by no means fast but not exactly slow either. This is my first diesel vehicle, and I am used to powerful gas engines as my last car was a Buick Park Avenue so I guess I desire power. I have a minor problem with my transmission which I understand is quite common with these cars, it flares between gears, but since I don't work on transmissions I expect it to cost about $500 to fix. I'm not sure how many miles are on my car as the odometer stopped working who knows when, but it reads 150,000 miles. The odometer is another common problem with these cars but a very easy 20 minute fix. Milage is not really an issue with these cars, the engines last forever with little repair beside valve adjustments. I do have to plug mine in when it's cold, below 15 degrees, but that is due to a tired starter and possibly bad valve adjustment. All in all, for the $850 I spent on the car and another $500 I've stuck into it, the money was well worth it. I never liked Mercedes before I owned one, I only bought mine for the diesel engine so I could run it on biodiesel. After driving this for almost a year now, I love Mercedes. It's crazy but this car, as old an worn out as it is, still rides and drives better than my perfect Buick did with rebuilt dynaride air suspension.
 

·
Premium Member
W-1-2-3 Go!
Joined
·
16,161 Posts
Things to check for the 300D turbo are:

Glowing/starting system
Blow by
Valve adjustments/clearances
Injector issues
Fuel filters/fuel lines/algae
Level of oil
- Do not overfill. Doing so will cause "severe engine damage" according to the manual. Some owners have had the engine continue to rev and "run away" to either blow up or get into an accident.

Also check starting issues with diesels at high altitudes (battery, starter, alternator, glow plugs, fuses, etc)

Check this thread too for added info: http://mbnz.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1172059&posts=20&fid=10

Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I also have been running biodiesel in my 98 dodge cummins for a year now and thats why i'm buying a M-B particularly 83-85 5 cyl- i just placed a bid on a 85 300d on ebay I hearing mostly good on these cars esp drivetrain. does your cruise and heater work good? i hear they sometimes can be an issue thanks mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
thanks karugs, whats up with the oil overfill? sounds extreme also are glow plugs tough to change? thanks mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
The automatic climate control and cruise are the two main weak points of these cars. When they work, they work great. The 1981 cars and newer used an "improved" climate control system, with I believe more electronics than the older vacuum style. Be prepared to spend a few hundred dollars for repairs if they don't work. You will rarely find a car with cruise that works, unless it has already been repaired. The majority of the time it is the amplifier that is bad. These can be rebuilt for around $200.

Good luck on your bid.
 

·
Premium Member
W-1-2-3 Go!
Joined
·
16,161 Posts
KCM - 3/4/2005 12:46 PM

The automatic climate control and cruise are the two main weak points of these cars. When they work, they work great. The 1981 cars and newer used an "improved" climate control system, with I believe more electronics than the older vacuum style. Be prepared to spend a few hundred dollars for repairs if they don't work. You will rarely find a car with cruise that works, unless it has already been repaired. The majority of the time it is the amplifier that is bad. These can be rebuilt for around $200.

Good luck on your bid.
Or you can solder them yourself and save $500 for a new ACC unit, and solder the cruise control amp too to save even more.

When you overfill the crankcase, there will be too much pressure inside. I'm not a mechanic but this is how I understand it. It will get into the turbo and burn up, so the engine will burn oil literally...as its fuel. The more oil above the limit, the more it will run away. That's why it's safe to underfill than overfill, and just add enough after you've checked it. Rather than have to remove oil. But this is a rare occurence. This also might happen when the shut off valve needs replacing. There was a topic about it not too long ago.

http://mbnz.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1200469&posts=19&hl=wood+block
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top