I am almost certain a valve adjustment will do the trick. It seems to me that as the engi...
I am almost certain a valve adjustment will do the trick. It seems to me that as the engine ages, it does not want to idle as slowly, so the fast the better. Also, a faster idle speed would decrease the time needed to warm up the car...but not that much. If you know how to do it yourself, i'd say go for it, or just take it to a dealer and they should be able to do it in about 5 minutes if you tell them what to do and what you need done.
I agree..... Make sure you have new fuel filters, get a vlve adjustment, and run a coupl...
I agree..... Make sure you have new fuel filters, get a vlve adjustment, and run a couple of cans of diesel purge through it. I have never heard of using Techron in a diesel engine before... a good diesel purge brand is made by Lubo-Moly.
How are your motor mounts? worn out motor mounts can cause shaking at idle as well...... Haveo those checked out too.
RE: I am almost certain a valve adjustment will do the trick. It seems to me that as the engi...
hi, you seem to know your stuff.i have a question for you.my car (1987 300e) could be used as a rocking chair to put babies to sleep ,thats how much it shakes.do you know why?it has poor accelaration ,it goes all the way to red in the "ECONOMY"dasboard window and at a stop sign feels like it's about to die, sometime die.Theres a few more symptoms...i'll save'em for the next consultation, Doctor.thanks a lot in advance.If not could you point me in the right direction.?
My car does this as well. The fact that it's intermitant tells me that the first place to start is fuel injectors. Poor valve adjustment would most likely result in a constant problem. It never hurts to get a valve adjustment done though, and I fully encourage you to do so.
Yes, if adjusting it doesn't do the trick, a new one would greatly help. But of course there are other sources that if you think they should be attended to first (like motor mounts, filters, valve adjustment, etc) then do so.
If you purchase a new bolt and still has the shake at idle, then you know your rack dampener bolt is already new and you can isolate your problem. That in turn would slowly restore the car indirectly. 
One other area you might check besides the others mentioned above - that is the braided hoses going to the injectors. Mine were dry - when viewed by the eye, but when I actually put some hand pressure on the hoses, some of them started releasing diesel fuel - very slight....but probably enough to allow air in. Change them if it helps.
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