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280SE rear windows.

1864 Views 16 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  San Arthur
Coupe rear windows.
Now it is turn to clean the rear window mechanism and replace the seals and felts.

I installed sound damping too.

I’m having a lot of problem getting the old seal out of the window frame.
Is there any magical solution to dissolve the old seal?

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If it makes you feel any better, after trying several methods I did the exact same thing, used a hose removal pick tool like what you have, with the curved tip, to dig out the residue. Just be sure to rotate it 180-degrees to scrape deeply along both sides to get every little bit out or you will have a very hard time getting the new stuff in. You could also try heating with a heat gun or hair dryer bit by bit to see if that makes it easier to remove, but it may be easier when it's cold and the parts break out in larger pieces. I didn't use the heat method as nothing was available to me at the time. I wonder if penetrating fluid would help release it from the channel a bit? Maybe not worth the cleanup or risk of handling a slippery piece of rare and expensive glass.
Thanks for your lines. Will acetone help? If I soak the edge, will I ruine the chrome?

A cursory search online seems to indicate it would be safe, but you may still want to submerge a spare bit of chrome, lug nut or similar, in some for an extended period just to be sure. So long as you also thoroughly wash the part before putting the new stuff in I guess it would be ok. Test this first too, it may just turn the rubber into a more aggravating lump of goo!
Please be extremely careful with open acetone like that, especially if in an enclosed garage and left for a long enough time to cause a concentration of fumes. It is highly flammable and the fumes can ignite very easily, even from a dropped tool or light switch being thrown if enough has evaporated. Sorry for all my cautions on this thread but I'd rather they be spoken than read about a mishap.
I sprayed mine with silicone lube and pulled it through with pliers while feeding it along with the other hand or a helper would be ideal, didn't have any dents that I recall but I bet if it was lubricated you could manage it, seems narrow. It's also far enough below the door you can push the trim to where it stops and cut the remaining off the top. Only you (and all of us) would know it was there. :)

Maybe you could search under "repairing dents in trim" and variations and see what comes up. Obviously you're at a disadvantage having glass so close to the work area.
This could be a cause of the trunk well rust, do you have the rubber outlets still in yours? Often water comes in through the trunk seal and also around the taillights, next time you're out in the rain (or wash with the spray directed along these areas) bring her into the garage and see where water is running down. Someone else, wish I could recall who, had the ingenious notion to put a bit of talc on the inner panels so you can see the trail left by emerging water and find it's source. Go light so you have less cleanup afterwards!

I resealed my trunk and lenses and put a plugin instead of the rubber vented drain plugs since no water can get in my trunk now. I don't have a sunroof tho so you will probably still want to keep the drain plugs. Your window seals look great, a fulfilling job I know!
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