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· Premium Member
1983 300SD, 1969 280SE, 2007 C230
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Coupe rear windows.
Now it is turn to clean the rear window mechanism and replace the seals and felts.

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I installed sound damping too.
*

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I’m having a lot of problem getting the old seal out of the window frame.
Is there any magical solution to dissolve the old seal?


 

· Premium Member
1983 300SD, 1969 280SE, 2007 C230
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Help removing old window seal

The old seal is stuck/ glued to the window frame.


Is inside a small channel.


I'm using a small hook and pick tool to remove it, but is a very slow process.


Is there any other way of doing this?

Please help!


Any ideas are welcome.
 

· Registered
1962 W111 220SE Coupe
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2,284 Posts
If it makes you feel any better, after trying several methods I did the exact same thing, used a hose removal pick tool like what you have, with the curved tip, to dig out the residue. Just be sure to rotate it 180-degrees to scrape deeply along both sides to get every little bit out or you will have a very hard time getting the new stuff in. You could also try heating with a heat gun or hair dryer bit by bit to see if that makes it easier to remove, but it may be easier when it's cold and the parts break out in larger pieces. I didn't use the heat method as nothing was available to me at the time. I wonder if penetrating fluid would help release it from the channel a bit? Maybe not worth the cleanup or risk of handling a slippery piece of rare and expensive glass.
 

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1962 W111 220SE Coupe
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2,284 Posts
Thanks for your lines. Will acetone help? If I soak the edge, will I ruine the chrome?

Saludos
A cursory search online seems to indicate it would be safe, but you may still want to submerge a spare bit of chrome, lug nut or similar, in some for an extended period just to be sure. So long as you also thoroughly wash the part before putting the new stuff in I guess it would be ok. Test this first too, it may just turn the rubber into a more aggravating lump of goo!
 

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1962 W111 220SE Coupe
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2,284 Posts
Please be extremely careful with open acetone like that, especially if in an enclosed garage and left for a long enough time to cause a concentration of fumes. It is highly flammable and the fumes can ignite very easily, even from a dropped tool or light switch being thrown if enough has evaporated. Sorry for all my cautions on this thread but I'd rather they be spoken than read about a mishap.
 

· Premium Member
1983 300SD, 1969 280SE, 2007 C230
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Success and help needed, again.

The acetone disolved what ever was sticking the seal to the frame, no damage to the chrome.


As you can see the frame has a dent that will make difficult for the seal to slide in.

How would you straighten it? Should I cut it? Should I leave it as is an just try to slide the seal in?

Thanks
 

· Registered
1962 W111 220SE Coupe
Joined
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2,284 Posts
I sprayed mine with silicone lube and pulled it through with pliers while feeding it along with the other hand or a helper would be ideal, didn't have any dents that I recall but I bet if it was lubricated you could manage it, seems narrow. It's also far enough below the door you can push the trim to where it stops and cut the remaining off the top. Only you (and all of us) would know it was there. :)

Maybe you could search under "repairing dents in trim" and variations and see what comes up. Obviously you're at a disadvantage having glass so close to the work area.
 

· Premium Member
1983 300SD, 1969 280SE, 2007 C230
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Rear wheel well rust mistery.

While cleaning the rear window panel I found the sunroof drain.

Is a black hose that dewaters inside the window panel just infront of the well.

I made a video for better reference.
http://redirector.googlevideo.com/videoplayback?id=3b9415f9dbc77644&itag=18&begin=0&len=2147483647&app=picasa&et=INVALID&el=INVALID&cmo=sensitive_content%3Dyes&ip=0.0.0.0&ipbits=0&expire=2925255119&sparams=id,itag,ip,ipbits,expire&signature=6F4463615C200631D9D57DF24681FD37C0EF7864.786C7C2C21A1B3F0F81A4E77670F11498C05F69A&key=ck1

Is this the cause of the well rust?

If the drains get blocked the water will remain inside the panel for a while.
 

· Registered
1962 W111 220SE Coupe
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2,284 Posts
This could be a cause of the trunk well rust, do you have the rubber outlets still in yours? Often water comes in through the trunk seal and also around the taillights, next time you're out in the rain (or wash with the spray directed along these areas) bring her into the garage and see where water is running down. Someone else, wish I could recall who, had the ingenious notion to put a bit of talc on the inner panels so you can see the trail left by emerging water and find it's source. Go light so you have less cleanup afterwards!

I resealed my trunk and lenses and put a plugin instead of the rubber vented drain plugs since no water can get in my trunk now. I don't have a sunroof tho so you will probably still want to keep the drain plugs. Your window seals look great, a fulfilling job I know!
 

· Premium Member
1983 300SD, 1969 280SE, 2007 C230
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Turn for the left rear window.

This is what I did to replace the rear window seals. These are not instructions. I'm sure someone has the proper procedure. Be careful using the acetone is extremely flamable!

1 Remove rear seat.
2 Remove rear panel.



3 remove top frame, 5 big phillips srews.


4 Separate the felt holder from frame.


5 Remove felt



6 Remove window from frame. Two phillips and one 10mm bolt.





7 Slide window out.



8 Remove slider frame, or whatever the name is. Sorry for my ignorance.


It has two bolts at the bottom.


9 Its tricky but you have to move the elevator up and down, to slide the channel out of the frame.



10 Remove the other felt.


11 Soak the old seal in acetone, IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA, to remove from the window frame.
 

· Premium Member
1983 300SD, 1969 280SE, 2007 C230
Joined
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Tabs

Use a block of wood and very gentle hammer taps until straightened.
Grubeguy, I will do, I still have a lot to learn and that is why I'm in this forum.
thanks for your comment, but could you please direct me to the tabs, I' m obviously missing something that needs straightening.

thanks.
Arturo
 
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