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350 TD and 280GE
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 280GE ('87) has a new problem.

I just replaced the starter (it burned because it started suddenly to crank while the engine was running !).

With the new starter it initially looked fine. I left the car standing for a couple of weeks and wanted to start it again.

Symptom:
If I turn the ignition key the engine want start (you can hear a relay "click") after a couple of times trying it just cranks and runs instantly.

I did already check the ignition switch: looks fine, no bad contacts.

The starter is new and it is a lot of work to replace it, so don't want to start their.
Battery is also fine.


Question:
Is there any relay (other then the starter-relay on the starter itself) between the ignition switch and the starter or is it just directly connected to the switch ?

Any suggestions on how to solve this ?


[?][?]
 

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350 TD and 280GE
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
little typo (in my message above):
want start -> won't start
 

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280 ges 1989
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321 Posts
I had a similar problem with my truck. There are no other bits between the starter relay and the ignition switch. Unless you have an alarm that cuts the starter. The problem could be your igition switch not giving enough current to run the starter relay. There is a conection block under the hood where the wires come from the starter - shorting out the two larger wires runs the starter without using the ignition switch. (sort of hot wired)if that works its the ignition switch. I got round fitting a new ignition switch by fitting a relay between the ingition switch and the starter - it seemed to cure the problem - so far.
Good Luck

another thought: if its an auto transmission then the neutral saftey switch is in between the ignition and starter; when it goes bad your starter wont work - incorrect bypassing of this switch can cause the starter to run on after its started.
 

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1989 W201.029/M103 3.0
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244 Posts
Since the starter's been replaced we'll consider that part irrelevant to the problem for the moment. You had an ignition problem which destroyed your old starter and now have one which won't crank the new one (but it clicks on ignition). Occam's razor: it's the same problem.

Sounds like bad wiring at the back of the ignition to me, could be a worn bung through the firewall (where the sharp edges have worn through wire insulation and cause short circuiting and earthing). See an auto elec.
 

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TJs, FJ40s, JGCs, G500
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2,343 Posts
Huub,

if I understand you correctly, you turn the key and instead of starter turning and engine cranking you only hear a click.

Indicates a bad plunger/selenoid (the small "can" that sits ontop the starter) to me. If the click comes from the starter (have someone check while you start) it indicates that the starter (#44) gets power (#30) from the battery (#43) and it gets power (#50) from the ignition switch (#56). Those two are needed to get the starter going. If it only clicks and does not engage the plunger is bad - plunger/selenoid can be replaced separately.

Causes:
#1 they sold you a bad starter/plunger
#2 when you left your car standing for a couple of weeks you were parked uphill. Especially 280GE with bad rear main seals drain oil into the plunger.
#3 bad electrical contact from battery to starter #30
#4 bad electrical contact from ignition to starter #50
#5 bad electrical contact from battery to starter switch (4 rt)

Also, as suggested before, your wires going through the firewall could be damaged. A short between 2.5 sw and 4 rt could make your starter running while driving. A wire damage like that could also be the reason for not starting properly.
Try this: connect a temporary wire to #50 on the starter (about 1.5 meters long), turn on ignition, put the end of the temp wire onto the + post of the battery - car should start right up. If it doesn't, the plunger/selenoid is bad.

here is more: http://hometown.aol.com/calspeed1/faq2.html
 

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