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1980 280CE; 1982 300CD
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Thank you, but I am hardly and expert... I'm in the middle of a Sanden/R134 conversion on my turbo coupe, but have had to ask a lot of questions along the way. I have been on the phone with Matthew from Klima Design Works a few times. He was very helpful and took time to explain some of the basics to me. I replaced most of the items you have in your picture, but will also use the parallel flow condenser for the W123 from KDW. And I have a larger late W126 aux fan from what my father would call a "used auto parts emporium" that will go on the car. That and some new hoses ought to do 'er.

As far as I know, there were no changes to the evaporator under the dash and no sensors need to be changed. I will spend some time flushing and cleaning the evaporator.

I ask about the compressor oil because the instructions that came with my kit from klimakit.com included directions to drain the oil that was in the compressor for shipping, measure 5 oz to refill the compressor and measure 1 oz to prep the dryer. In my shopping it seemed some compressors came with oil and some didn't. Of course, and AC shop could do that for you, too.

I went with R134 for the same reasons you list. It should work well in the Pacific Northwest- with the new condenser.

FB
 

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1985 300CD, 1985.5 Porsche 944, 1969 Triumph TR6, 1998 Land Rover Discovery I, 1992 Volvo 240
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Discussion Starter #22
Parallel flow condenser ordered. Matt was very helpful.
 

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Sweet. At the rate you're moving, yours will probably be in long before mine. I'm looking forward to hearing about how it works.

FB
 

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1984 280TE Euro; 1983 240D; (Sold)1982 300D Turbo
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228 Posts
My 280TE with Sanden compressor using R134 cools my wagon in Summer here!

Could you post a link to the compressor you bought? Mine starting to leak!
 

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1985 300CD, 1985.5 Porsche 944, 1969 Triumph TR6, 1998 Land Rover Discovery I, 1992 Volvo 240
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Discussion Starter #25
I bought a cheap $80.00 compressor off eBay just to make sure everything works. The issue with the "clone" Sanden compressors can be a short life. The short life is even shorter if you try running the Sanden with the OEM tube and fin condenser that is designed for R12 and not R134a. If all goes well and when and if the clone fails I will upgrade to a new higher quality Sanden.


 

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Hello all,

I've been down this path before and wanted to share my story. I own a 280TE AMG that is pretty much how I would have ordered the car when new, except for the fact it did not come with factory A/C. I had to source a manual A/C assembly to retrofit into the car. I have not completed the install, but I did collect everything I needed to do the conversion.

I went with an original Sanden S508 compressor. I found a NOS compressor sold by a dealership that was from a late 80's Jeep and designed for R12. For the bracket that mounts the compressor to the engine, I found one by chance that's a cast aluminum piece made by Diavia. Diavia is known company for A/C and its popular with the G-wagen crowd who've done A/C conversion. The Sanden compressors fit perfectly to it and look factory.

I went with a parallel flow condenser off of amazon, its an aluminum construction.

For the expansion valve, I had to look around for a French or German made Engelhof one. The newer ones are now Chinese made, as to their durability, who knows. Might be the same but I didn't want to risk it.

I also had to find the correct pulley for my M110 as my motor did not have a provision for an extra belt.

When I have access back to my wagon, I'll take pictures but the list you documented is pretty accurate.
 

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1985 300CD, 1985.5 Porsche 944, 1969 Triumph TR6, 1998 Land Rover Discovery I, 1992 Volvo 240
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Discussion Starter #28
The parallel flow condenser with custom hoses and all mounting brackets and hardware arrive today from Klima Design Works
IMG_2229.jpg
today.

About Us – Klima Design Works
 

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Nice. Looks like what I have waiting in my shop. It cost a few bucks, but from what I can tell through some very un-scientific internet "research", the performance should not disappoint.

FB
 

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1985 300CD, 1985.5 Porsche 944, 1969 Triumph TR6, 1998 Land Rover Discovery I, 1992 Volvo 240
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Discussion Starter #30
Installed it today and it was super easy. The stainless brackets are a nice touch.
 

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1985 300CD, 1985.5 Porsche 944, 1969 Triumph TR6, 1998 Land Rover Discovery I, 1992 Volvo 240
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Discussion Starter #31
HELP....

Will this York to Sanden bracket not work on the M110 motor or am I just not understanding how it mounts?

What orientation?
What order?
It seems the conversion bracket interferes with the allen head bolt of the stock bracket. Or do I have to space out the conversion bracket until it clears the bolts?
IMG_2272.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
I figured it out and here is my install. The bracket is designed for the 240D and 300D and I read where it won't work on the M110, not true.

The first thing you do is mount this part of the original bracketry to the head. Ensure you use the hex head bolt and allen head bolts., if you use the originals, where I have pictured as the hex heads are a lower profile and will require less shimming.
IMG_2278.jpg



Next mount the bracket that you removed off the York Compressor. Again, use the hex head and allen head bolts where pictured. The hex head bolt interferes and is a lower profile than the allen head bolt, requiring less shimming. The nut circled also interferes, but shimming will cure this.

IMG_2279.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #34
You will need to shim out the Sanden bracket slightly more than the thickness of this bolt head as the rear nut is a bit more proud.

IMG_2287.jpg
IMG_2299.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I used longer grade 8 hardware and the bolts must be slipped into place before mounting the bracket you took off the York compressor. There is no room to slide them in after. In this picture I only had the nuts as spacers as I hadn't discovered that the nut on the back stud required a bit more shimming.

IMG_2293.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #36
A shot of how much I had to shim out the Sanden bracket to clear everything.

IMG_2297.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
With the bracket shimmed out and clearing the bolt head and nut you have full front to back adjustment for pulley alignment. My preference was to slide the compressor as far back as it would go and use the front groove on the compressor. This allowed more than enough room between the face of the compressor clutch and the engine's fan. Pushed all the way forward put it too close, say within 3/8", of the fan.

Now just get a longer belt.

IMG_2298.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Now I need to have a local shop that I found make me custom lines that are designed for R134a and that will bolt up to the Sanden compressor as well as the Mercedes.
 
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