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1985 300CD, 1985.5 Porsche 944, 1969 Triumph TR6, 1998 Land Rover Discovery I, 1992 Volvo 240
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Discussion Starter #1
Car is a US spec 1978 280E, M110.
The current system is still the stock York system with the belt removed, so I have no idea what it's condition is. Best would be throw a belt on and all is fine, but I assume the belt was removed for a reason. Anticipating the worst, buying a new York compressor, I am considering converting to a Sanden compressor that I have read is more efficient at lower RPMs and robs far less power to operate. The other option would be to rebuild the York in my car now, but that isn't really an upgrade if you will, just much simpler if successful.

My current system has previously been converted to R-134 but I will go back to R-12

My Questions:
1. Is the Sanden a more efficient unit?
2. Is this the correct bracket for the M110 motor?
3. Is the wiring pretty much plug and play?
4. New hoses or adapters? I have hear one hose fits, but the other doesn't, but this was on the OM617.

IMG_1885.jpg
York to Sanden Bracket..jpg
 

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1980 280CE; 1982 300CD
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I went with a Sanden kit for my coupe from klimakit.com. Looks like they don’t have anything for the M110, but I was impressed with their customer service and product. I’m looking forward to running it- mostly because it is much more efficient and effective than the GM unit my car came with.

For mine, there is only one wire to the clutch. Should be similar on yours.

Looks like you’re going to need new hoses made up to connect to the Sanden. Or at least new fittings. Most Sanden versions have horizontal connections on the back of the compressor.

FB
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The Zexel/Seltec compressor is preferred by some I guess because of how the hoses mount. The connections coming up vertical off the back body of the compressor looks like it would afford a very easy fit for the stock AC lines. The Sanden and the Seltec use the same bracket. The Seltecs are all O-ring fittings. The Sandens can be O-ring or flare? On my '78 do I have flare fitting or O-rings? Having hoses made is a pretty simple thing if I do have to change the compressor mounting ends.

The Sanden fittings come up off the back of the compressor as well, but at a "V" angle. And it seems the Sanden units can be found cheaper, key word being cheap, for as low as $80.00 for a Chinese copy. I will probably source whatever compressor I go with locally to make it easier to return if there are ever any issues with it.
seltec.jpg
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seltec.jpg
 

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1985 300CD, 1985.5 Porsche 944, 1969 Triumph TR6, 1998 Land Rover Discovery I, 1992 Volvo 240
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1,297 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Seems I can replace the head, if needed, on a Sanden 508 to be either O-ring or flare compatible to match the OEM hoses currently in my 280.


Nostalgic AC Parts carries Sanden Compressor Heads for all SD5 Series and SD7 Series Sanden Compressors. The Compressor Heads we have listed are the ones we carry at all times due to high demand. Each Compressor head will come with a Head Gasket to allow for a quick and easy install. We can also special order a Compressor Head for you that isn't listed here as long as it's available.
 

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Looks like you may have found a solution.
FB
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pardon my ignorance, but am I correct that these original hoses/fittings are the O-ring style?

And a compressor with 1" threads or using the below head if need be, would allow using my original hoses?

Sanden 508 / SD5H14 Compressor back (head). The head has vertical Tube-O fittings, 1"-14 thread size. This back has five bolt holes to mount to the rear of the compressor. Any Sanden five series compressor with five bolt holes on the rear will accept this rear head.


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IMG_1901.jpg
c_1.jpg
 

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1980 280CE; 1982 300CD
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The lines for my 300CD had o rings.
Isn’t that a white o ring in the picture of the fitting?

FB
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, the O-ring is the white thing in the hose, but it is more of a hard plastic rather than what I am familiar with when I think of an O-ring, either the black type of the green for AC components.

I ordered all the parts, I hope. I'll document more once everything arrives.

  • Sanden 508 Compressor with V-belt pulley
  • Compressor head with dual 1" inlet fittings
  • York to Sanden conversion bracket
  • Behr drier
  • New expansion valve
 

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Yes, the O-ring is the white thing in the hose, but it is more of a hard plastic rather than what I am familiar with when I think of an O-ring, either the black type of the green for AC components.
Connectors on York compressor are called RotaLock. Sealing ring is PTFE.
 

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Since you are going this far into the project, and will already have the system opens up, you might consider upgrading your condenser to a parallel flow model for R134FB
Or will you go back with R12?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm going back to R12.

I already ordered the 1" o-ring style head for the Sanden, but I will call the company tomorrow and see if they offer a RotaLock head that will allow me to use my original hoses. If not I guess I can always have the hoses made to fit the new 1" replacement head or would the head on the compressor I ordered that has 3/4" and 7/8" ports work? If I can't get a RotaLock head with vertical ports any reason why 3/4" and 7/8" isn't sufficient?

Compressor that I ordered.

AC front.jpg
AC back.jpg
 

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1980 280E Sedan
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I can't speak for the Sanden, but FWIW the replacement York I recently had fitted is both quiet and efficient. It runs nice 'n' cold, there is NO discernible power loss from the 280 with AC on, and it looks correct (retaining original spec).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The York compressor wasn't working when I recently bought the car and yes, I'm sure I could have put a belt on, added some refrigerant and see where I stood, but I just figured replacing everything was a good place to start. While doing some research everything I read said that the Sanden compressor design was a lot more efficient at low RPM/speed around town type driving than the York and that is what sold me really. Supposedly the Sanden take about ten less HP to drive, but I take all those HP claim with a grain of salt. Again, I have no experience with either.
 

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I'm sure you'll be fine with the Sanden mate, best of luck with it.
To satisfy any remaining curiosity I was just confirming that the York doesn't put a noticeable drain on the 280 (at any rpm), may be different for smaller engines?
 

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I had an original York on my 1980 280CE with a Euro M110. I defiantly knew when that compressor clutch was energized. But by that time the compressor was 30 years old with unknown service, not a replacement York.
FB
 

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I refer to it as a York but the replacement is actually an identical York 'style' replica by TCCI Manufacturing. Maybe I notice no loss of power because it is a new unit although the clutch was salvaged from my original one, nothing wrong with it. Anyhow, that's my experience with it, it barely flinches when the clutch kicks in and works well.
20200401_084452.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
And I have read that the Yorks are workhorses.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Anything I am missing besides the lines?

IMG_2061.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #20
FB, I hope you weigh in once again. I appreciate your advice based on your experience.

I figured I'd leave the proper evacuation, filling with oil, pulling a vacuum and filling with coolant to the pros, but maybe filling the compressor should be my responsibility.

I am also now at a crossroads about going back to R12 or keeping R134a that the car had previously been converted to.

  • The R134 would be easier to have the system worked on.
  • I live in New England where R134, or the best equivalent, would probably work well enough in our mostly mid to high 80's summer weather compared to 110 degree temps in the Southwest.
  • I will have to put new ends on the hoses regardless, so having new R134 compatible hoses made would be easy enough.
  • I could change to an R134 compatible parallel flow condenser to address the higher pressure, but this I would assume means a custom condenser or at least a custom install?
  • If going with R134 do I need to do anything with the heater/AC box under the dash?
  • Would I need to swap out any sensors?
 
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