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24V Starter Relay for FLU419?

5179 Views 18 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  The FLU farm
Any idea where I can get a 24 volt starter relay for a FLU419 Unimog? Also, I need a power steering V-belt, but have no idea of the part number and the old one is nowhere to be found. Any help getting my Mog on the road would surely be appreciated.

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I fully agree with Choprboys advice. No need to burn out a printer, the manuals are electronically indexed and are lot easier to use on a laptop. The Control F function on the Adobe PDF reader really helps. If you want to print one out, print out the operators manual and go through it page by page. It is very important to go through the vehicle inspection and lubrication section. Even if you bought it from someone who claims to be an expert and has gone through it, there are lot of places where you need to grease that probably hasn't been touched for years. At least one hard to get to one on the transmission requires deploying the backhoe to get to the fitting. Same with adding fluids. Don't skip in a rush to play with it.

If you ended up with one of the auction vehicles out of the Red River Army Depot in Texas (GP planet auctions), check all the electrical functions. There is a fairly high incidence of rodent damage to the wiring harness that is not readily apparent unless you know where to look. The rats nest in the harness behind the dash and when they do, they gnaw through the harness. The rig may have run with this damage in place but it may not depending on how much damage there is.

Do yourself a favor and see if the hydraulic cooling fans will spin by hand (use a stick through the grilles), if they don't turn or turn hard, odds are water leaked into the motors and they are trashed. It happens frequently. It can lead to a lot of mysterious electrical issues at the back of the SEE. In the short term just disconnect them.

If you have few hours, there is very long thread on SEEs on Steel Soldiers. Choprboy had posted a collection of US Military technical tips on SEEs previously on this forum . I bound them together in a PDF file and indexed them to make them easer to locate, many are repetitive but worth going through them.

Just in case you haven't found the stash of manuals Choprboy referenced they are in this link (as well as other places) EI does have big inventory of SEE parts. Unfortunately there isn't an electrical wiring diagram for download but there is section on electrical diagnosis in the manuals that may be helpful.

With respect to the NSN numbers and the Mercedes part numbers, they are very handy as on occasion if you search for them the parts will show up on Ebay. Be aware that there are lot of firms that look official that will pop up when you search for NSN numbers, they frequently will have the parts listed but they appear to be middleman that just try to order the parts from Mercedes and mark it up.
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Did you find the electrical troubleshooting section on Page 3-64 of the Technical Manual (Vol 1 TM-5-2420-224-20-1)?

I believe someone scanned the electrical Diagram and made it available on one of these forums.
I think I was the "lucky" person who first posted about rat damage on the wiring harness as mine was purchased prior to the big flood of SEEs that occurred in the last year. Mine appears to have been eaten by a "civilian rat" rather then the military rats that reside at the Red River Depot;). It did start and run. I had 21 gnawed off wires (42 ends) and several partially gnawed wires. I wished and hoped for a copy of the wiring diagram but in the end traced out all the circuits using the electrical diagnostics section of the manuals. What I really would have wanted was pin diagrams of each electrical connector and maybe a connector location diagram (which are not on the wiring diagram). The wires are all black and the only way to identify specific wires is to locate the correct connector, carefully clean off the wires and with a magnifying lens read the white number on the wire as it leaves the connector. Even with care not all the numbers are legible but by combing the diagnostics manual I did get everything hooked back up. I had the manuals on my laptop and used the control F function on Adobe Acrobat to search for wire numbers, frequently I would find a pin sketch for a connector on an unrelated electrical diagnostic procedure. I do find the procedure are pretty comprehensive and repeat the manuals warning not to skip steps. The other thing to realize is the only way to really diagnose the electrical system is to take out the ductwork behind the dash and remove all the gauges to get at the electrical connectors.

Some folks have advocated starting from scratch and just rewiring critical systems, I expect that that approach is an exercise in futility and will lead to a rig that at best might run with many systems non functional but far more likely an expensive abandoned project. At some point maybe the owner will admit they ruined it and part it out.
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If someone just wants a strictly off road tractor with minimal lights I agree with you. Mine started and ran even with most of the harness behind the dash gnawed in two. On the other hand its no where near the work that would be required to rewire from scratch and even have basic functionality. I expect that anyone who did that has effectively removed a lot of the market value for the SEE. If on other hand you have use for a parts SEE then its one step closer.

The good side or going through the hassle with the wiring is I understand a lot more of the systems.
By the way, since you are an admitted newby to 419s (as am I), there is a high likelihood that your air system is full of crap carried over from possibly a damaged alcohol injector tank, or a internally rotting out air line that runs from the air pressure regulator on the passenger side rear to the air tanks on the drivers side. This air eventually makes it to the 4wd cylinder after it has gone through numerous regulators and fittings that all could be crapped up. Ideally start at the air pressure regulator and change the air line (unless it has already been switched to stainless or Cu Ni) and then start cleaning things out. Its going to make getting everything up to snuff a lot easier in the long run. If you reach a point where thing look clean possibly after the air tanks then you may be good to go.
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