Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I had two bad axles. I replaced one and my car still makes the same bump, bump, bump noise at low rpm and under load. The axle that was not replaced has alot of inline travel. I measured the space between the clip in the differental and the gear and it is .965mm. The space between the end of the axle and the pin is small (.635mm). At around 75mph my car is loud and has vibration. I am currious if all the play in my axle could have caused damage to my differental. How can I tell? The teeth look shinny but not sharp. The axle that is left to replace is the flange type. When I look at pictures of replacement axles on line, they look like little barbells? I don't see the spline that goes into the wheel in the picture. Are these the right axles for a flange type? They also ask about weather it is a 8mm or 12mm. Is that the flange bolts or the wheel bolt? The spacers are $6 from the dealer and must be ordered. Is there an on line source for these? I appriciate any help.
Thank you,
Rob
 

·
Registered
1982 240D, 1983 300D
Joined
·
210 Posts
I just replaced both axles on my 1982 240d. What year is years? I got the barbell kind of axles from http://www.cvjreman.com/MercedesBenz.php.

I don't understand the play your are talking about. I would think with the ring that holds the axle in place to the differential, and well as screwing it into the hub, it wouldn't move. Do you have the spacer that goes around the spline that goes into the differential? That might be why there is play if you don't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mine is an 81. I do not have the spacer. The shop I took it to said it needed a new differental. They said that this one was off maybe a 300d. I don't think they know what they are talking about. It should be the same off a 300d. I think the (young) mechanic was confused by the fact that it has a new type and old type axle on one rear end. I just hope the play didn't wollow out my axle bearing or the spline. I need to pull it out and look. Does anybody know how to tell if the bearings are ok? I know I will have to order the spacer from mercedes. I am also going to order a rebuilt axle but not from the dealer. The axle that is bad is the new type with the flange. Autozone has an axle with a lifetime waranty for $100.
Thanks for your input.
 

·
Registered
2005 w203, 2013 Town & Country
Joined
·
2,181 Posts
http://mbnz.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1217812&posts=11

http://mbnz.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1216639&posts=18

When I rebuilt my drive train and suspension - this was a small problem for me - it was my shim washer - to get the spec i needed - i had to surface grind a washer to tolerance...

Good Luck
Jake
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does anybody have any spacers for sale? I live an hour from the dealer and I would rather buy from an individal.
 

·
Registered
various W123 chassis
Joined
·
476 Posts
Well I need some pictures, but if the two axles simply do not match in assembly style, it does not mean the spec dimensions are different, and the same axle as the first type you got should fit as the first did. They are interchangable.

Assuming everything is as it should be, your car should have the "newer" ****-kinetic axles, versus the hypo-kinetic type usually only found on 77 and 78 models.

The 8mm spec is the one you'd want.

This info isn't guaranteed, but reliable. I can only imagine what odd modifications and riggings may have been done in the past.

Replace both axles before worrying about the differential. If you can read it on the housing, your 240D should be marked as a 3.69 ratio. A 300D would bear a 3.46 ratio.

This should cure noises, or at least eliminate the axles from the equation allowing one to hear any real problems with the differential. A new mount for it and new rear carrier bearings MAY be in order as well. You might want to pop new diff to axle seals in while you'r e in there, a good time for cheap prevention. Leave the front driveshaft pinion assembly seal alone if at all possible, everyone recommends only the dealer ever mess with that. (You don't want to know!)

By spacers, do you mean the hollow metal things the axle-to-wheel reatining bolts go through or the washers they "brace"? (That's the principle replacement hardware I believe)

If the washers, and I get a quantity from my dealer, perhaps I can mail you a couple.

Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow Vince,
That was very helpful. Here's a brief summary of where I'm at. A Shop replaced my left axle with a rebuilt one i ordered. It is the old style. I took the axle that came out of the left and put it in the right while I wait for parts. (The differntal looks fine.) The one on the right is the new style with the flange and bolts. I just ordered a new half shaft for that side from Autozone. The one I ordered is a Duralast part # 7575. The spacers I need are the ones that go on the end of the axle in the Differential with the circiclips. The gap i measured between the circiclip and the spline on the axle is .965mm. I know I need a spacer thinner than that so I can fit it in. I would like to order a variety of sizes if you have them? I also need the gasket that goes on the end of the half shalf I ordered. It fits between the flanges of the half shaft and the shaft going into the differntal. It looks like paper. The 8mm bolts go thru it. If you have one of those I would buy that too? If not maybe you can tell me how to make one. You guys out there are really helpful. This is a whole new way to work on cars for me.
Thanks again,
Rob
 

·
Registered
various W123 chassis
Joined
·
476 Posts
Do you have some factory spec information that tells you the .965 mm gap left by the retaining circlip in the diff is beyond tolerance? I've never had a need for such a spacer, I don't think it's anything to worry about. SOME play will be needed as it is a revolving assembly.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top