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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everybody.
I have a 2005, E320 Mercedes and the door lock on the driver’s side started going up and down like crazy every time we locked the car. I bought new door lock actuator, installed it, and it doesn’t work.
Now both locks will unlock but not lock. Now I suspect the problem is in the Keyless Module (211 820 81 85), that is in the door, but I can not confirm that.
Is there any way to test this? I attached a test light into the little plug (on the module) where the lock actuator plugs in, and pressing the remote key “Unlock” the light turns on, but pressing “Lock” no light.
Is there any fuse or anything else I could check before I go to buy the keyless module? I’d just hate to spend the money and find out it was something else, just like the door actuator.
Can anybody help? Thanks.
Jan
 

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hmm mine was the actual module that gave out. im not sure if the dealer did anything to it i can let you know tomorrow when im at work the service records are there. before replacement mine just jumped too but i had to lock it like five times before it actually worked
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That sounds like the same problem, except mine has gotten to the point now that it won’t lock at all.
I may have to bite the bullet and get the new module even thou I am not sure that is the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
O.K. Due to the overwhelming response to my post, here is the update of my situation. I was able to fix it! That’s the best part. Apparently the problem was with my testing procedure. In order to test the remote key, everything has to be back in place, otherwise you getting false reading and the door will not lock. I had only the door lock connected, and I didn’t have my door panel switches and the other crap hooked up to the module and that was partially my problem. The second problem was the damn light switch in the door jamb that you have to press to simulate closed door. Even the little plastic lock cover on the door has to be there, otherwise the car sees the door as “Open” and it will not lock. And the 3rd thing was the lock itself, it has to be in lock position again to simulate closed position. So, I lubricated the dust cover on the lock itself that was preventing the rod going up and down and that was all. It's fixed. I am just posting this so others may avoid the same nightmare I have gone thru. If you have a jumping lock going up and down and it won’t lock on the first trial, first lubricate the rubber dust cover on the lock where the little stem goes thru. I am pretty sure that the Mercedes stealer will charge you big bucks. They gave me a quote (diagnostic, lock and labor) $500-600. Easy money! By the way, I found the answer to this problem (lubricating the rubber) on the forum. Thanks.
Jan
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Benz Diesel.
This is an old post that I posted about six months ago. I also posted the solution to the problem and the way I was able to fix it, but thank you for your input. I’ll keep the info for future reference just in case I have the same problem again or even for others to find an answer to similar situation. Thanks guys. jan
 

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Nice find DB :)
Here it is on the eBay US site for owners in North America. Still shipping from Poland, but
it makes the transaction easier to run it through US eBay and Paypal.
Mercedes C/E Class W203/W211 DOOR LOCK REPAIR KIT | eBay
Hi. After extensive search on forums, I ordered this kit and repaired this myself. I was successful and extremely pleased since it was my first ever attempt to repair something in a car.

One warning that I should mention, I landed in a bit of trouble when I used longer bolts than the recommended 10mm. It obstructed the window glass pane going down to lowest position. These I had to saw off with a metal-cutting saw. Therefore, I recommend to follow the instructions!

Another warning: collect all the tools before you begin work (especially if you have just one car): drill with 5mm metal cutting bit, torx screwdrivers etc.
 
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