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2014 ML350 4Matic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need to replace rear brakes and rotors on 2014 ML350 4Matic.
Question: Any special instructions for Electronic Parking Brake on the '14 model.
I see on youtube the 2012 model has some sequence with steering wheel buttons to position the Elec Parking Brake correctly prior to disassembly. Couldn't find info on the '14. Thanks for any help/suggestions.
-John
 

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2014 ML350 4Matic
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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2008 ML350 4matic and 2015 GLK350 4matic
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With apologies if I missed it, but I didn't find service menu steps in video above. I think this is the video with the service menu step. It's called "Mercedes-Benz M-Class Rear Brake Job HD"

 

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2000 ML55 sold? 2013 ML500,? 2017 C43 AMG,1929 Victory 6 roadster, 1927 Dodge 4 sedan, 1929 Dodge
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Just leave the park brake off when you remove the callipers. They come straight off like normal.


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Sorry if I've got it wrong. I'm looking at buying a 2016 and trying to make sure I get it right. It seems like the new parking brakes are electronic and come on automatically. Did I miss something?
 

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Premium Member
2000 ML55 sold? 2013 ML500,? 2017 C43 AMG,1929 Victory 6 roadster, 1927 Dodge 4 sedan, 1929 Dodge
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6,232 Posts
Sorry if I've got it wrong. I'm looking at buying a 2016 and trying to make sure I get it right. It seems like the new parking brakes are electronic and come on automatically. Did I miss something?


In the 2013 they don’t come on automatically but my wife’s 2015 C250 it does. It also comes off automatically though once the cars in gear and you touch the throttle.


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W166, W251 Moderator
1987 560SL - Signal Red, 2014 ML350 - Diamond White, 2019 Ford Explorer - Magnetic (company car)
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If you are working on the rear brakes, use these instructions to retract the rear parking brake, you will need this if replacing the rear pads/discs.

Note the rear caliper has the parking brake build into it, it only retracts/opens few mm when releasing, it does not return to fully retracted position during normal operation.

Ensure your drivers door is closed

Set the middle cluster to show odo meter

Set ignition to position 1, (one push if you have keyless go)

Use buttons on steering wheel
-> Press [Answer] button and hold it
-> Press [OK] button and hold it
-> Hold both buttons for roughly 5 sec
-> Service Menu should emerge on center display

Scroll down to down to Pad Replacement

Press [OK]

Now message will ask to press [OK] to enter fitting position -> Press [OK] and you can hear the parking brake motors run until they are fully retracted.

Now you can work on the brakes and replace parts as needed. After you are done, you will need to enter the menu again, this time it will ask if you want to exit pad replacement and return to normal state, when pressing [OK] you can hear that the motor run until they hit resistance and then they retract to position similar as when no parking brake is activated.

Hope above helps
 

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Premium Member
2000 ML55 sold? 2013 ML500,? 2017 C43 AMG,1929 Victory 6 roadster, 1927 Dodge 4 sedan, 1929 Dodge
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6,232 Posts
If you are working on the rear brakes, use these instructions to retract the rear parking brake, you will need this if replacing the rear pads/discs.

Note the rear caliper has the parking brake build into it, it only retracts/opens few mm when releasing, it does not return to fully retracted position during normal operation.

Ensure your drivers door is closed

Set the middle cluster to show odo meter

Set ignition to position 1, (one push if you have keyless go)

Use buttons on steering wheel
-> Press [Answer] button and hold it
-> Press [OK] button and hold it
-> Hold both buttons for roughly 5 sec
-> Service Menu should emerge on center display

Scroll down to down to Pad Replacement

Press [OK]

Now message will ask to press [OK] to enter fitting position -> Press [OK] and you can hear the parking brake motors run until they are fully retracted.

Now you can work on the brakes and replace parts as needed. After you are done, you will need to enter the menu again, this time it will ask if you want to exit pad replacement and return to normal state, when pressing [OK] you can hear that the motor run until they hit resistance and then they retract to position similar as when no parking brake is activated.

Hope above helps


This procedure did not work on my 2013. Or it was user error probably more likely. Tried 3 times and all I got was reset odometer. Maybe the older functions don’t do it pre 2015.


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W166, W251 Moderator
1987 560SL - Signal Red, 2014 ML350 - Diamond White, 2019 Ford Explorer - Magnetic (company car)
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1,265 Posts
This procedure did not work on my 2013. Or it was user error probably more likely. Tried 3 times and all I got was reset odometer. Maybe the older functions don’t do it pre 2015.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've had that happening when trying, its because it important to get the procedure right else Reset ODO will emerge.
I have a 2014, and it works.

If you failed, you must cycle switch ignition off, key out, if Keyless go, push button until ignition is off.

Open and close the drivers door so the radio etc is off.

Then try again.

Also make sure that your center cluster is displaying ODO before attempting to enter service menu.

After pressing and holding [Answer] button press and hold [OK] within 0.5 sec, if your timing is off it will go to Reset ODO

I know it can be frustrating :grin
 

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2014 E250 Bluetec 4-Matic, 2017 C300 4-Matic
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I just replaced my rear pads because the wear indicator lamp came on after about 30,000 miles since I did my last brake job. Car is a 2015 ML250. Checked fronts first and they were fine. Checked rears and the outside pads were worn down to about 1/16" of material was left. Bought new pads and did a little research. Seems floating calipers like these can have problems with the guide pins freezing up. On other makes with nearly identical mechanical parts it is apparently common to either replace them or to pull them out and clean them, as well as the bore they ride in. So, I pulled them, cleaned the pins of grease and inspected them. Nothing of note, no rust, no gouges, etc. So I regressed them and put them back in the bore, reassembled the brakes with new pads.

Took the car out for a drive and the rear brakes were much hotter than the fronts. So I took the brakes apart again, and removed the pads, cleaned the bearing surfaces on the bracket that holds the pads where the pin and the 13mm bolt bear, pushed the piston back in, and had about a mm of play after the caliper was installed. I could push the caliper one way and then the other and watch it recenter itself with the 13mm bolts not heavily tightened - snug, but not as tight as I could get it. So then I tightened the 13mm bolts hard and the caliper was no longer able to "float."

So I loosened the 13mm bolts and snugged them up so I still had a "floating" caliper and took the car out for a test drive. This time they were fine - no hotter than the fronts, perhaps even cooler. I will buy some new pins, and the rubber bellows that fits over the pin protruding from the caliper and see if they are similarly sensitive to being tightened. I do not recall this problem on any other cars with floating calipers, and don't have the problem at the front.

Anyone experience anything similar?

Thanks,

Jim
 

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2015 ML350 4MATIC
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4 Posts
I just replaced my rear pads because the wear indicator lamp came on after about 30,000 miles since I did my last brake job. Car is a 2015 ML250. Checked fronts first and they were fine. Checked rears and the outside pads were worn down to about 1/16" of material was left. Bought new pads and did a little research. Seems floating calipers like these can have problems with the guide pins freezing up. On other makes with nearly identical mechanical parts it is apparently common to either replace them or to pull them out and clean them, as well as the bore they ride in. So, I pulled them, cleaned the pins of grease and inspected them. Nothing of note, no rust, no gouges, etc. So I regressed them and put them back in the bore, reassembled the brakes with new pads.

Took the car out for a drive and the rear brakes were much hotter than the fronts. So I took the brakes apart again, and removed the pads, cleaned the bearing surfaces on the bracket that holds the pads where the pin and the 13mm bolt bear, pushed the piston back in, and had about a mm of play after the caliper was installed. I could push the caliper one way and then the other and watch it recenter itself with the 13mm bolts not heavily tightened - snug, but not as tight as I could get it. So then I tightened the 13mm bolts hard and the caliper was no longer able to "float."

So I loosened the 13mm bolts and snugged them up so I still had a "floating" caliper and took the car out for a test drive. This time they were fine - no hotter than the fronts, perhaps even cooler. I will buy some new pins, and the rubber bellows that fits over the pin protruding from the caliper and see if they are similarly sensitive to being tightened. I do not recall this problem on any other cars with floating calipers, and don't have the problem at the front.

Anyone experience anything similar?

Thanks,

Jim
I'm having the same issue. hot rear brakes after the pads and rotors replacement. done everything i can such as greasing this or that. i'm thinking to take it to a mechanic. :crying:crying
 
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