Need codes.

Using 1 gallon of oil a month seems to indicate a HUGE problem. Assuming you aren't seeing puddles of oil underneath... Did you find signs of a lot of oil in your intercooler? If not from bad turbo seals (and it would have to be REALLY bad- what was the shaft play like on the old turbo?) then rings or valve seals.

I suspect you need to perform an adaptation. Not sure of how one adjusts the turbo actuator but suspect that this might also be something that's required. Did you install all new intercooler air charge piping seals?

PS: -> https://www.benzworld.org/threads/how-to-complete-your-profile-helpful-for-members.3112838

 

Hello. You have another problem. Most likely It will be a clogged dpf filter or pipes. When you got thru a gallon of oil, that's A LOT of oil in your exhaust system.

Also, check your pipes from the turbo to the intercooler to the charge air intake and then look over the rubber hoses. There might be a hole or outside air is getting in and that's stalling it.

Did you get the aftermarket turbo or remanufactured? Did you get the AEM modifications done to the car under BlueTEC warranty l, because turbo is covered and it shouldn't cost you a dime.

Codes would be helpful. GL.

 

Hey there yes I installed a new Turbo and Intercooler with all new seals and o-rings. There is no sign of oil leaking under car and it does not smoke at all. I did notice oil residue in the turbo intake pipe and on the Intercooler hoses where they connected to the Intercooler so thought that may be why the boost pressure was low. The CCV unit was original and the seal was badly worn so hopefully that might resolve the oil consumption issue. But now I just need to get it out of limp mode so I can drive it!…

 

If no leaking then, as StenoPete notes, it might being going toward clogging up your dpf.

IF you have stuck oil rings, which might be what's going on, then perhaps go this route (note that it's a forum discussion- better to hear about it from regular people than marketing ones):

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/valvoline-premium-blue-restore.260699/

 

The CCV unit seal was pretty worn and since it vents right in front of the turbo with all of that suction I’m thinking it was sucking a lot of oil through the intakes which were veeeery oily and grimey … I asked the dealer to check the DPF and force a regen but they said it was ok. The turbo is a brand new Garrett turbo but the car hasn’t run long enough after the replacement to even test the charge pipes for leaks. Wouldn’t stuck oil rings be producing white smoke out of the exhaust?… There is none. Would a failing fuel pump have caused the gradual loss of power and eventual cease of accelerator pedal response?

 

Hello. If your DPF is OK and you don't have a pool of oil under the car, oil cooler seals are done and your CCV is good, then the ONLY thing left for oil consumption on the OM642, in your car, are stuck oil orings. This is a very common problem on the OM642 engines. There are remedies that you can do, its just a matter which one you want to go with. Judging from what you said, 1 gallon per month, all 6 are stuck.

If you've done the AEM modifications on the vehicle and still have warranty left, then the dealer can do an oil consumption test and determine the validity and reliability of the engine. Also, your turbo is covered under the AEM warranty. Best case scenario they'll try to buy your out or offer a newer used engine to replace it with. Worst case, they'll try to say that it's your fault and they can't do anything about it. Either way you have options.

Yes, failing fuel pump would cause issues, but if there's no fuel being pumped, you'd have codes. Recheck your work and wires, also put in a new fuel filter, that way you'll be able to eliminate a few things ahead of time. GL.

 

The CCV can't account for that much oil consumption. If your turbo impeller is that badly damaged you can expect similar damage to your cylinder walls and rings. Do you drive in a particularly dusty environment? What the heck is going on with your air filter?

 

If all six oil rings were stuck wouldn’t there be blue smoke pouring out of the exhaust?… The truck doesn’t smoke at all!… That is why it’s so bewildering…I haven’t been able to drive it to see if oil consumption has improved or not…DPF was replaced during the emissions recall and I specifically asked dealer to check it and said it was good. The car had to be towed to my shop where it sits and the nearest dealer is 2 hours away so I spoke with a local mechanics shop who is going to send someone to try and scan for the codes my scanner can’t retrieve. He also mentioned something about an immobilizer function that can shut the vehicle down that is initiated by the security system for theft… does anyone have any information on that?

 

If all six oil rings were stuck wouldn’t there be blue smoke pouring out of the exhaust?… The truck doesn’t smoke at all!… That is why it’s so bewildering…I haven’t been able to drive it to see if oil consumption has improved or not…DPF was replaced during the emissions recall and I specifically asked dealer to check it and said it was good.

The DPF is very very good at catching any and all smoke including burning oil. The easy test is to simply remove the DPF and run the engine. You'll see the clouds of smoke pretty quick.

 

As far as the air filter that was how I found it when I opened the air box apparently the mechanic I’ve been using to service the car has never changed it and it got deformed somehow and debris was getting through and nicked up the leading edges of the turbo vanes. There was no play in the turbine though…

 

Hello. Find a new mechanic... GL. LMFAO

 

🍿

 

Interesting I did not know that! If I can ever get the engine to run right again I will check that!…I was expecting to see pools of oil under the oil cooler but it was dry and it had the upgraded purple oil seals already installed…

 

No worries… it’s just that this is the most frustrating vehicle I have ever been associated with… my wife bought it 2 years old and we have owned it for 10 years with only 135K miles on it. In that time I have replaced wheel speed sensors, all of the air struts once and one of the front ones twice, I replaced the air pump, DEF heater, the transfer case twice, the aluminum bolt to the power steering pump snapped had to extract and replace it, the entire emissions system was replaced on recall and now all of this! I live 2 hours from the nearest dealer and none of the local mechanics want to touch it because they can’t scan it! We love the car otherwise the interior looks brand new… if someone wants a project car I will make them a reeeally good deal! 😁

 

Here is an update. I put my Foxwell scanner on and got a P179D00 code. Status is:
103 Start enable - No
Control module ISM - Activated
Drive Authorization - -F-

I saw that this code is related to a anti theft feature in my truck… Could that be causing my start and immediate stall problem with no throttle response?

 

Here is an update. I put my Foxwell scanner on and got a P179D00 code. Status is:
103 Start enable - No
Control module ISM - Activated
Drive Authorization - -F-

I saw that this code is related to a anti theft feature in my truck… Could that be causing my start and immediate stall problem with no throttle response?

Hello. Yes. For some reason ANTI THEFT was activated. You will have to reset it. Some readers will read the codes differently, fyi. See if you can change the programming under drive authorization. Two things come to mind. Your module is fried and will need to be replaced and reprogrammed and/or your battery for some reason triggered ANTI THEFT. GL.

 

The scanner won’t let me reset but it is showing that there is no hardware fault so maybe it isn’t fried. It is also showing that the shift lock function is active.

 

The key was in the truck when it was being towed to my shop could that have activated the anti theft mechanism? I had to put the truck in neutral so it could be loaded on tow truck and left the key inside.

 

Hello. Yes, that most likely did it. It might have been a combination of the two. There are various ways that anti theft will kick in. Some members had raised their car and it triggered. Others, with their command units when they swapped them, that did it also. Another one had it triggered by a dead battery. Now that you narrowed it down to anti theft, and your scanner cannot reset it, then call your dealer tomorrow and tell them exactly that. That your anti theft was triggered and it's stopping your car from starting and have them walk you through the procedure over the phone. There might be a soft reset procedure vs a hard reset, where you need to hook up xentry unit and do it that way, at the dealership.

Now, another way to do it, and this is thinking outside the box -- your car has a wireless option and it connects to an app called MercedesME, via satellite. It's downloadable on any device. You can do a few things with it and one of those is start/stop, open/close, lights, etc., so if your car has a triggered anti theft mode in the ON position, then that service tech at the end of the line might be able to reset it for you. You will have to call and find out, but if they verify ownership to you and the car, then I don't see why they wouldn't be able to do it. I don't remember what the price is for the service, but you do get 30/60 days of free trial and then you can cancel, WITHOUT being charged for it. Worth a try.

If not then you can always rent a truck and a tow dolly for a full size car. If doing the smaller dolly, you'll need to disconnect the rear driveshaft. GL.

 

Thanks for the info. I haven’t noticed an anti theft warning on the display though and I can still put the truck in N, D, P and R. From what I’ve read the ISM when the theft device is triggered will lock it in park. I have a guy coming by on Weds that “supposedly” has a scanner that will read the deeper codes to see if there are other issues like fuel etc….we’ll see.

 

AFAIK Antitheft would not allow car even crank. So it is not on when it ignites, of course it can jump on just after and kill the engine.