[tfvesquire]

Well after replacing just about every front suspension part including front and rear lower control arms I still had a hideous squeak over minor bumps that drove me crazy. I pulled the lower engine cover and found what looked like oil on the drivers side. After a bunch of research I determined the left motor mount had collapsed and leaked fluid out. I also looked into changing both motor mounts but I am a little stumped on how to get access to the bolts and even the mounts to get them out.

I watched a few videos specifically for the 4matic and understand you have to remove both CV joints and disconnect the upper suspension U mount so the engine can be lifted high enough to get the new mounts in. I'm fine doing that since I had to pop out both cv joint ends to install the front LCA.

On my vehicle it still has both motor mount heat shields blocking access to the top bolt. I found there is a special tool 16mm that I need to buy to remove the top bolts. I am fine with that as well.

My issue is that I cannot even get my hands close enough to the mounts from the top to get the mounts out or the new ones in. Then I'm not even sure how to get the bolts back in. I'm ready to just purchase a decent set of mounts and have my local shop do this. Especially since it is 19 degrees here and my garage is full.

If anyone has don't this job let me know how you did it bc I'd like to get this done asap.

Thanks.

Ted

 

[Shadly1]

I don't even have a 4matic and it was a nightmare job. It's deceptive. You can touch the mounts. You can even wrap your hands around the mounts. Once you unbolt them, there's no easy way to get them out. I had to drop the steering rack for access. Just plan on an all day job. More than that if you run into trouble anywhere.

That being said, the squeak when you go over small bumps is probably the frame mount bushings in your sway bar. They get old and shrink. They're bonded to the bar so you can replace the whole bar or epoxy it to the frame like the TSB advises. I epoxied mine. It was fairly easy and very rewarding. Squeak was 100% gone once the epoxy cured.

 

[Tubers]

I agree with everything in this video, also I found a set of ICON stubby metric ratcheting wrenches that includes a 16mm for the top bolt, saves a ton of time once the top bolt is loosened with the special tool shown.

Professional Stubby Metric Ratcheting Combination Wrench Set, 10 Piece

Amazing deals on this 10Pc Met Stubby Combo Ratcheting Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

In order to support the engine, Mercedes specifies a lifting device that rests on the fender tops and front cross member. I found this one works well and I've used it to replace two sets of engine mounts on my W221 and a set on my W212.

1000 lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar

Amazing deals on this 1000Lb Engine Support Bar at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

As the guy in the video says, you really need to be able to get enough clearance to get the new mounts in. BTW, there's no way you'd catch me doing this in cold of winter outside. Might be a good call to take it to your Indy for the engine mount swap.

 

[tfvesquire]

Thank you for the prompt and detailed responses. First off, on the sway bar fix. In my other thread I posted about discovering rust on the bent section of the bar so I replaced it with a low mileage part. I suspected even those rubber bushings would have worn and/or shrunk slightly so I did what everyone on here said not to do and lightly greased the bushing so they could move slightly and not squeak. The sound I'm hearing is definitely not coming from there.

I did see that video above and found it informative but when I tried to get my arm and hand down to the drivers mount I cannot even get close going in from the top. Plus the heat shield on the mount blocks access too. Maybe there is better access from below to remove the shield or bend it out of the way and then put the special tool in place and then break it free from above?

At this point and after hearing it's taking members 8 hours to do this job when it's warm I'm going to just purchase the mounts and see what my local shop will charge to do this.

Last night in my driveway I was able to rig up a long spray straw to a can of Deep Creep lube and soak the inside of the driver's mount while I had the left corner jacked up and the wheel off the ground.

Going to drive to work shortly so if my squeak is now gone (even if it comes back after driving several miles) I can confirm it is that collapsed motor mount and I will move forward with replacing both engine mounts.

I'll update the forum accordingly. Those members who had kept up with my threads and how to posts on here know I do not like to give up and have a shop do my repairs and maintenance but in this case I am not going to freeze my tail and hands off doing this all day job if I can get it done for a few hundred in labor expenses.

Thanks.

Ted