Get an Amp clamp, open your hood and place it around the negative cable leading into your batter (make sure it is pointing in the right direction, the clamp should have an arrow showing the “flow” of electrons). Keep the hood open, close both hood latches, close and lock your car and let it sit for about 30-40 min. When you first lock the car, you will see your Amps around 6 A or so, then as your car “goes to sleep” you will see the Amps drop as everything shits down. After about 40 min, you should be able to see if you have any draw on your battery. There should only be about .5A when the car is asleep. If you have more than that, go to your fuse box and start unplugging fuses one at a time, when the Amps drop, that fuse is the area when you something is staying on. If you have WIS, you can go into the wiring diagram and see what the fuse is attached to. This will at least narrow down where the draw is coming from.

 

UPDATE
While performing power draw analysis with a multimeter there was a lot of continuous relay clicking going on in the front SAM and the current was fluctuating between 5 and 7 amps. Traced to relay C in the front SAM and also had some relay activity near the compressor for the suspension. Ended up disconnecting and reseating the electrical connectors to the ECU on top of the engine and on the compressor. Current draw last measured around 5 milliamps and the car has been good for two days now. Praying that a bad contact on one of those connectors was the problem.

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Way to go! Let’s hope it is fixed!