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2010 GLK350 shudders while driving

5309 Views 26 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  RussBarnes
Hi all,

My brother has a 2010 glk350 with 150k miles purchased privately around a year ago. It started having shudders and power loss after 1st gear. There was no check engine light or anything but I figured it was a transmission issue so I told him to take it to the tranny shop. They quoted him $1800 for a new torque converter. Their idea is that the lock up clutch is failing. Before emptying our wallets, I decided to try and change the fluid myself and see if the issue would go away. I changed about 6L of fluid and we noticed that the car regained power and the shudders are 80% cleared, but still there. While slowly accelerating, I notice the rpms shifting up and down like a manual transmission clutch slipping and catching. I think the new fluid is allowing more slippage so its not as rough. I fear that the car might need its torque converter replaced, but I wanted to ask if it was worth dropping the valve body and conductor plate to replace the torque converter lock up clutch solenoid. This would cost around $250 to change out properly. I have no doubt in my ability to do this project, I just want to ask if it is worth it, or to have the shop take the transmission out and replace the whole converter. Thanks in advance for your advice and thoughts
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Had my '15 GLK350 in because It had reached 55k and the B2 due in so many days showed up. Since it's a new-to-me car and I had done all but the trans flush and filter I bit the bullet and went to the dealer. I too had a shutter while accelerating cold. M/B dealer looked everything over and decided that I needed new motor mounts. Hum, I can't help but wonder if they thought they would get a piece of that pie?
Thank you for your support . I have driven it a little since the dealer transmission flush and with each step ot gets a little better. I'll try the motor mount next week when I'm home. I also tried the non running, position 2, hold the gas pedal wot for 30 seconds, and again "slightly" better.
Yes, since mine is a '15, I found this tip on another search and figured it couldn't hurt. The post I read had a video and showed 30sec, so that was what I used. I have a '67 Olds Toronado that used a "Switch Pitch Torque Converter" and it acts about like my GLK does when you push all the way down on the gas pedal and feel the engagement of a switch and it leaps ahead. The Olds were infamous for the vanes in the converter getting sticky if they weren't used. That made me think if this car had the same feature that unsticking them might work. And, like I mentioned , it did seem to help a little. My "shutter" is just during the warm up phase and is totally gone after a mile or so, which is why I am skeptical that it's the mounts.
Latest: just changed all spark plugs. Shutter still there, only when first driven a mile or so. So it's had tranny oil and filter service, new air filter, new spark plugs, looked at engine revved with brake on (fine) and transmission's better that when I picked it up, but still there.
MB dealer did a full flush, new filter and approved least that's what I paid $7xx for. This "shutter" may be normal for these, it goes away in a mile or two, just something that I'm not used to and would like to smooth out.
Mike, thanks for your comments . I think the difference is your stutter was one you could feel, but your engine was running smooth. Mine is shifting OK, and the car is smooth, but until warmed up it's like the engine is missing (skipping). Maybe that's typical with these, this is the first V-6 MB I have driven . My other MB is a 500+hp sl550 that doesn't miss a beat - warm or cold .
Update: I now have driven at least 2,000mi using Ethanol free Premium AND at each fill up adding 8oz of Marvel Mystery oil. Unless my shutter was due to cooler temperatures it now has almost vanished. Perhaps the prior owner absorbed some water in the ethanol gas that the injectors didn't like and MMO has cleaned things out. If it comes back in the fall, I'll repost, but for now: all is well.
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I left the original coils and just changed plugs. Still has a little roughness until it warms up. No codes, could be several things.
Well now having accumulated about 5,000 miles with Marvel Mystery oil and Ethanol free premium, I can state that even in 40° weather, my shutter has vanished. An experienced mechanic friend and I share an opinion that this "Direct Injection" that was forced on us without enough years of being worked out was the cause. That is the same reason so many products are having issues lately. "Hurry it to production so we can be the best mpg, the fastest, the cleanest for the environment, including EV products". It used to be a company like GM, or Ford would have one model that had the new technology and after a year or so. IF IT WORKED, it would be on most models.
Just saying.....
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