Can you post the process ? I am looking to get this done, I have the same shuddering
2010 GLK350 shudders while driving
Hi all,
My brother has a 2010 glk350 with 150k miles purchased privately around a year ago. It started having shudders and power loss after 1st gear. There was no check engine light or anything but I figured it was a transmission issue so I told him to take it to the tranny shop. They quoted him $1800 for a new torque converter. Their idea is that the lock up clutch is failing. Before emptying our wallets, I decided to try and change the fluid myself and see if the issue would go away. I changed about 6L of fluid and we noticed that the car regained power and the shudders are 80% cleared, but still there. While slowly accelerating, I notice the rpms shifting up and down like a manual transmission clutch slipping and catching. I think the new fluid is allowing more slippage so its not as rough. I fear that the car might need its torque converter replaced, but I wanted to ask if it was worth dropping the valve body and conductor plate to replace the torque converter lock up clutch solenoid. This would cost around $250 to change out properly. I have no doubt in my ability to do this project, I just want to ask if it is worth it, or to have the shop take the transmission out and replace the whole converter. Thanks in advance for your advice and thoughts
My brother has a 2010 glk350 with 150k miles purchased privately around a year ago. It started having shudders and power loss after 1st gear. There was no check engine light or anything but I figured it was a transmission issue so I told him to take it to the tranny shop. They quoted him $1800 for a new torque converter. Their idea is that the lock up clutch is failing. Before emptying our wallets, I decided to try and change the fluid myself and see if the issue would go away. I changed about 6L of fluid and we noticed that the car regained power and the shudders are 80% cleared, but still there. While slowly accelerating, I notice the rpms shifting up and down like a manual transmission clutch slipping and catching. I think the new fluid is allowing more slippage so its not as rough. I fear that the car might need its torque converter replaced, but I wanted to ask if it was worth dropping the valve body and conductor plate to replace the torque converter lock up clutch solenoid. This would cost around $250 to change out properly. I have no doubt in my ability to do this project, I just want to ask if it is worth it, or to have the shop take the transmission out and replace the whole converter. Thanks in advance for your advice and thoughts
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Thank you,Hi MikeC123321,
I simply drained the torque converter and the pan and replaced the fluid as per the refill process. There are plenty of videos on youtube showing how to do this and what tools you need. I didnt drop the pan since I didnt have the parts at the time but if you plan to change the fluid, I would recommend changing the filter, gasket and pan bolts as well.
I actually didn't have the tools, so I had an indy shop do it locally,
thank you
There is a way to test if it was the motor mounts,Had my '15 GLK350 in because It had reached 55k and the B2 due in so many days showed up. Since it's a new-to-me car and I had done all but the trans flush and filter I bit the bullet and went to the dealer. I too had a shutter while accelerating cold. M/B dealer looked everything over and decided that I needed new motor mounts. Hum, I can't help but wonder if they thought they would get a piece of that pie?
step on the brake, and rev your engine, if you see it move up and down to a certain degree, then yes, it might also be the motor mounts, but if you get the shudder, it might as well be the transmission flush that you will require, and check around, the Indy shops which specializes in importsare actually very helpful.
Can you see if you can do a full transmission flush ?Latest: just changed all spark plugs. Shutter still there, only when first driven a mile or so. So it's had tranny oil and filter service, new air filter, new spark plugs, looked at engine revved with brake on (fine) and transmission reset.....it's better that when I picked it up, but still there.
ok just making sure, I had a similar shudder and went to indy shop and got it rectified
It shouldnt be that way … my partner drives an eight cylinder and I drive a six, it doesn’t and shouldn’t skip … maybe have some with a star machine check it outMike, thanks for your comments . I think the difference is your stutter was one you could feel, but your engine was running smooth. Mine is shifting OK, and the car is smooth, but until warmed up it's like the engine is missing (skipping). Maybe that's typical with these, this is the first V-6 MB I have driven . My other MB is a 500+hp sl550 that doesn't miss a beat - warm or cold .
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