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Symptons: Initially starts and runs for 2 seconds and then dies. Try again and will not start. The next morning, it will repeat itself. No matter how much you crank it and use ether, it will not budge, kick or smoke. Before I ruin the starter, it would be appreciated if some knowledgeable person could tell me if it's electrical cutoff switch or sensor that's defective or something else. The glow plugs have been tested and the diesel is fresh. I have read that it could be the over voltage protection relay. Is this accurate, and if so, how can I by-pass the relay to start the car? What puzzles me is the older fuel injection diesels, like the 300D, is straight forward, whereas this model of engine, 602, has many electronic devices. I am aware of the over voltage protection relay, but want to know all of the conditions that would not allow the engine to start. Recently, I purchased, the chassis and body manual, but there is no pertinent information. The engine manual is very expensive. Typically, most manuals will include a diagnostic section, but I fine the Mercedes manuals to be lacking in this regard. If anyone has the manual for the 602, could you please research my question and send me an email. Very much appreciate any and all help. Thanks from George in Canada.<br> <br> PS. If anyone wants a chassis and body manual to buy or trade for the engine manual, please contact me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well my first guess would be the pre-heating system. But since you said that was all checked out... That still sounds like it's not getting pre-heated. I am not sure about the OVP relay.<br> <br> What is the temperature where you are right now? I don't know if it will help, but plug in your block heater (I hope you have one) for the night and try it. It's worth the try.<br> <br> And I'm guessing you've tried flooring the accelerator while starting it. I'm sorry that your car won't run! I love my 190D!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks NATE for the info ..help section should have read '' starts but dies out suddenly'' but with the fustration I've burnt the starter , many times pumped it right to the floor and she starts normal and dies after a few seconds..... give it all the diesel no go.... temp in toronto 10C.... Thanks for trying and if you need some info like help on other matters call me
 

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I've been thinking a little more on what could be wrong. I also looked through my haynes manual to see if there was anything they said about that. It would make sense you have a fuel injector problem. Or something is wrong with the fuel delivery system. I am unsure of how to check and adjust this... but this would be a start for you! I hope you get it working!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have given up....all filters have been changed...the hoses have been changed to be clear to see if air bubbles, found the lines carried air bubbles,took pump a part. Found MBZ cheaped- out with a small single O ring on push rod which was bad and allowed oil and combustion gases from the crank case...still some air is visable up on acceleration when the thing gets started.note...to get it started only ether works sparyed after the air cleaner intake only.....I rigged a electric pump for by passing the mech. pump and NO air visable.this does clear all the lines and filters and proves lines no leaks...still the engine does not start normal and when it does large clouds of white and slight blue smoke bellow out...fuel replaced,,gas cap removed.....bought a cd[generic] from ebay what garbage..waiting for the 602 engine manual..thanks to all for the responces and to a nice gentlemen[Mr.Lawless who offered his CD.] and when I do get the manual-- all are welcome to use it..question..why not a electric pump on diesels if air is a problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If I'm correct... doesn't white smoke mean you're burning anti-freeze? Blue smoke is oil, I know that. Black smoke, that's DIESEL!! I love giving assholes behind me HUGE diesel clouds! Slow down and get close to them, then floor it and push the down shift button under the pedal AND POOF!<br> <br> Really sorry you can't get that beast workin! I'd love to have a 2.5 and a 2.5 turbo along with my baby 2.2!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
DON'T USE ETHER !!! You can do some serious damage. WD40 works just as well and is much safer due to it's oil base. On the stalling problem, I suggest that you contact one of the tech. advisors with the Mercedes Benz Club of North America. These guys have a wealth of knowledge and share willingly. In fact, if you are not a member, you should join. Regardless, they will give you advice.
 

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thanks ted for the info about ether I received my long awaited 201 cd's and found them to be bare- bones information [shame on MBZ]---I have ordered the 602 engine manual and I hope it's going to be more helpful.....At this moment I will take your good advice and contact MBZ N.A. P.S.--I drive a 300sdl 1985 and what a simple engine to work on... this 201 was to replace it.. now I have 2nd thoughts about replacing it but I won't give up in getting it to run ,,,thanks from george in toronto
 

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Mercedes Benz 190E 2.3-16 1987 (W201)
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thanks ted for the info about ether I received my long awaited 201 cd's and found them to be bare- bones information [shame on MBZ]---I have ordered the 602 engine manual and I hope it's going to be more helpful.....At this moment I will take your good advice and contact MBZ N.A. P.S.--I drive a 300sdl 1985 and what a simple engine to work on... this 201 was to replace it.. now I have 2nd thoughts about replacing it but I won't give up in getting it to run ,,,thanks from george in toronto
Ey guys! Thins thread was from a loong time ago but I was wondering.. did you guys find what was the issue. I am having the same trouble on my 190D!! HELP please!! :bowdown:
 
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