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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first try and I don't have a service manual, except a computer and Internet. :)
My dealer told me that my vehicle (ODO = 39k) needs new front brake replacement - cost = $300
I did some research and I think I can replace the brake pads, sensor by myself. cost = $75
Again, I am not trusting in my knowledge, so I have a few questions.
  1. Is there a difference between a standard and a sport package model? My wheels have the stamp AMG, but it is not AMG model.
  2. What parts do I need to buy for the job? Assume the rotor is still reusable.
  3. Which brake pad is the most popular?
Thanks much in advance for any help
 

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2009 ML320 Bluetec, 2013 Tesla Model S 85
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I will be needing rears soon. Have briefly researched available choices and finally decided when the time come will probably use OE (Original Equipment, not the same as OEM Original Equipment Manufacturer) pads.

There are dustless ceramic pads available but I'm a bit concerned about rotor wear.

Another thing is that I don't want different pads on the front than the rear. Want each end to have compatible coefficients of friction so the brakes stay balanced.
 

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ML350
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Discussion Starter #3
You didn't help me at all. :)
Start your own thread, but I don't mind if you wish to stay here.
 

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08 ML350; 07 RDX; 05 Murano; 02 Rodeo
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There are brake pad sensors, one front and one rear diagonally like RF and LR or vice versa. Trust them, don't trust your money making adviser.
1/ Between standard and sport packages, yes, they are different. Not much. The AMG models use bigger rotors hence different pads. Yours is not.
3/I think the most popular brand and I'm happily using them now is Akebono or something sounds like that, less dust, quieter.
Hope this helps
 

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You didn't help me at all. :)
Start your own thread, but I don't mind if you wish to stay here.
What part of "use matching/compatible front and rear pads" did you not understand? Would you use different tires front and rear?
 

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04 SL500 / 06 ML 500
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So why would you only replace the the fronts (pads)?
I take it you've done front or rear or both disc brake caliper pad replacement? So You've got the specialized tools and know how to reposition the caliper pistons. Don't forget the brake bleeding tools also.

If the "dealer" you went to quoted you $300, you should have taken it. That's unbelievably cheap! They would have also bled the system and topped up DOT4 fluid.
Good Luck. Post some DIY pics if you get time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There are brake pad sensors, one front and one rear diagonally like RF and LR or vice versa. Trust them, don't trust your money making adviser.
1/ Between standard and sport packages, yes, they are different. Not much. The AMG models use bigger rotors hence different pads. Yours is not.
3/I think the most popular brand and I'm happily using them now is Akebono or something sounds like that, less dust, quieter.
Hope this helps
Thanks much for the info.
I decide I will change out the brake fluid this time also.
Is Texar a good brake pads?

So why would you only replace the the fronts (pads)?
I take it you've done front or rear or both disc brake caliper pad replacement? So You've got the specialized tools and know how to reposition the caliper pistons. Don't forget the brake bleeding tools also.

If the "dealer" you went to quoted you $300, you should have taken it. That's unbelievably cheap! They would have also bled the system and topped up DOT4 fluid.
Good Luck. Post some DIY pics if you get time.
Two things that make me wanting to do it myself.
  1. $300 versus $72, and how do I know that the dealer will replace the brake fluid. I don't trust my dealer. Last time, I DROVE my vehicle to the dealer for changing a defected new tire. They couldn't charge me anything, so they called me to tell me that the battery HAS TO BE replaced to run the vehicle. I ended up pay $300 for a battery, when my vehicle had only 25k miles on it and the battery was still functional when I dropped off the veh. to the dealer.
  2. It is fun to do it yourself and I know that I can do it I don't to be rotten myself. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What part of "use matching/compatible front and rear pads" did you not understand? Would you use different tires front and rear?
The part that I don't understand is I am new about this stuff, and I have no interest in what you will do to your car, as I do not intend to by OEM parts at all.
You know that you can buy the same kind of brake pads brand to match both, front and rear without using the OEM brake pads, right?
Again, I don't plan to replace the rear pads either, as I don't have time at this time. Maybe, a week after I finish the front.
 

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So you're not replacing the front rotors. You're not doing anything to the rear brakes. You paid $300 for a battery you didn't need. You've never repaired disc brakes.
Did you know your original pads contain cancer causing Asbestos ?

Be careful. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So you're not replacing the front rotors. You're not doing anything to the rear brakes. You paid $300 for a battery you didn't need. You've never repaired disc brakes.
Did you know your original pads contain cancer causing Asbestos ?

Be careful. Good Luck.
Thanks!
BTW, you have an interesting name.;)
 

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2019 X350d, 2017 GLE500e, 2012 ML350BT (sold), 2013 A200 Exclusive(sold), 2009 ML350CDI(sold)
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4Did you know your original pads contain cancer causing Asbestos ?
Asbestos has been banned in Australia since 2003, and I believe the US since 1996.

So neither the original or aftermarket pads will not contain asbestos. :bowdown:
 

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1998 E320 RWD Metallic Black; 2006 BMW 530xi; 2011 E350 4Matic Sport
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I would say the following:

1- Go with Pagid or Textar. A bit dusty, however they work pretty well stopping a 3 ton SUV. Do not be cheap on brakes. Plus they meet OEM standards.

2- Never install new brake pads on used/unresurfaced rotor disks. If you plan to replace the pads only, make sure you resurface your rotors. In my area, Meineke will do it for $20/piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would say the following:

1- Go with Pagid or Textar. A bit dusty, however they work pretty well stopping a 3 ton SUV. Do not be cheap on brakes. Plus they meet OEM standards.

2- Never install new brake pads on used/unresurfaced rotor disks. If you plan to replace the pads only, make sure you resurface your rotors. In my area, Meineke will do it for $20/piece.
Thanks much for the tip!
 

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2- Never install new brake pads on used/unresurfaced rotor disks. If you plan to replace the pads only, make sure you resurface your rotors. In my area, Meineke will do it for $20/piece.
I disagree. If the surface was satisfactory for the old pads then its fine for the new. If there is any visible grooving or anything you can feel then the rotors do need to be turned. Most any auto parts store can do it while you wait, but call ahead.

The problem with always turning rotors with new pads is

1) Its usually not necessary, and
2) It consumes life of the rotor, and
3) Unless you run the machine yourself the operator will probably take one big bite off your rotor rather than make multiple smaller cuts until all the warpage or grooves are gone. The sooner your rotor is cut down to the minimal thickness the sooner they can sell you a new one.

You should measure the rotor's thickness when replacing the pads. The minimum service thickness will be stamped on a non-wear surface. Some German rotors are barely the minimum when new, and don't have enough material to be turned after the first set of pads.
 

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The part that I don't understand is I am new about this stuff, and I have no interest in what you will do to your car, as I do not intend to by OEM parts at all.
What I am looking for helps define talking points for your research.

You know that you can buy the same kind of brake pads brand to match both, front and rear without using the OEM brake pads, right?
[sarcasm]No! I didn't![/sarcasm]

I think you saw the words I wrote but you didn't read or understand else you would not have used "OEM" in the above context.

OEM is any brake pad manufactured by the same company who made the OE brake pads no matter whether they fit your car or not. OEM also includes different models of brake pads that fit but are not the same as the originals.

Again, I don't plan to replace the rear pads either, as I don't have time at this time. Maybe, a week after I finish the front.
Once again the main point of my original post is that your replacement brake pads need to match/compliment the properties of the brake pads you are not replacing to maintain the vehicle braking balance. Then again you can mismatch out the wazoo and probably never know until ABS/ESP engages in an emergency.

OE rears with replacement sensor are under $100 from common sources and that is what I will do unless I replace the fronts as well. When replacing all 4 corners with the same one has some confidence the pads are matched in properties.

I ride motorcycles a lot, race enduros, and go through a lot of brake pads on dirtbike. Perhaps 400 miles on rears, or 40 miles in mud. Every different model of brake pad behaves differently, some require more force than others.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What I am looking for helps define talking points for your research.



[sarcasm]No! I didn't![/sarcasm]

I think you saw the words I wrote but you didn't read or understand else you would not have used "OEM" in the above context.

OEM is any brake pad manufactured by the same company who made the OE brake pads no matter whether they fit your car or not. OEM also includes different models of brake pads that fit but are not the same as the originals.



Once again the main point of my original post is that your replacement brake pads need to match/compliment the properties of the brake pads you are not replacing to maintain the vehicle braking balance. Then again you can mismatch out the wazoo and probably never know until ABS/ESP engages in an emergency.

OE rears with replacement sensor are under $100 from common sources and that is what I will do unless I replace the fronts as well. When replacing all 4 corners with the same one has some confidence the pads are matched in properties.

I ride motorcycles a lot, race enduros, and go through a lot of brake pads on dirtbike. Perhaps 400 miles on rears, or 40 miles in mud. Every different model of brake pad behaves differently, some require more force than others.
I am not sure that you are trying to confuse me or yourself! :)
If you want to have all four brake sets the same, then you can either buy OEM or after-market parts. Again, I hope that you will not come back to tell what is the difference between OEM and after-market. :) If they are the same and working good, then who cares.
Cheer!
 

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I disagree. If the surface was satisfactory for the old pads then its fine for the new. If there is any visible grooving or anything you can feel then the rotors do need to be turned. Most any auto parts store can do it while you wait, but call ahead.

The problem with always turning rotors with new pads is

1) Its usually not necessary, and
2) It consumes life of the rotor, and
3) Unless you run the machine yourself the operator will probably take one big bite off your rotor rather than make multiple smaller cuts until all the warpage or grooves are gone. The sooner your rotor is cut down to the minimal thickness the sooner they can sell you a new one.

You should measure the rotor's thickness when replacing the pads. The minimum service thickness will be stamped on a non-wear surface. Some German rotors are barely the minimum when new, and don't have enough material to be turned after the first set of pads.
Agree to some extent. This is my 4th MB vehicle, so I have had some experiences on them. With my driving style, on average, MB OEM rotors are good to last 2 brake pad sets. I always resurface my rotors whenever I change my brake pads. Why? They never feel smooth and groove-less just like a new one :). And I agree, those mofos are thin off the box :)!!
 
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