[Steve (Austria)]

Well it seems I spoke too soon! According to my wife, the ML has once again showed the symptoms of stuttering acceleration and went again into a limp mode while driving on the highway. Again, pull over and restart solved that, but it seems that the "quick and easy" solution of replacing the air filters really didnt solve the problem.

I would be really glad to know if anyone else has suffered from a similar problem, and how it was diagnosed and solved.

 

[Chudas]

Hey, i had similar problem 18 000km ago. My car smoked after heavy acceleration and problem was pressure regulation of turbocharger..... No at 40000 i have same problem, smoke smoke smoke........

 

[jimzeller]

320 cdi in costa rica-20,000 miles.Same going limp problem.Took to dealer tock it out

Well it seems I spoke too soon! According to my wife, the ML has once again showed the symptoms of stuttering acceleration and went again into a limp mode while driving on the highway. Again, pull over and restart solved that, but it seems that the "quick and easy" solution of replacing the air filters really didnt solve the problem.

I would be really glad to know if anyone else has suffered from a similar problem, and how it was diagnosed and solved.

.

I have a ML 320 CDI 2008 w 20,000 miles in costa rica with same reocuring going limp problem problem.Took to dealer today to ck it out. Does anybody know what the problem is? Thanks jim

 

[jimzeller]

Again I have this same going limp problem on a 2008 ML 320 cdi.Took to dealer today. 20,000 miles ,had problem for over a year.Anybody know what it is? thanks jim

 

[Mercedes cozy]

Mine had the same problem ad it turned out to be two sensors, one of them was the AIR pressure sensor in the exhaust.

 

[akeles]

I don`t think problem have your car... DPF ``Diesel Particle Filter`` in your and engine management system starting clean your DPF you should help to clean keep engine rpm around 2500-3000 rpm because in cleaning process DPF temperature increase around 1300C deg.

 

[StevenML320cdi]

Turbocharger faulty - changed under warranty!

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Hey, i had similar problem 18 000km ago. My car smoked after heavy acceleration and problem was pressure regulation of turbocharger..... No at 40000 i have same problem, smoke smoke smoke........

Hi All! This is Steve(Austria) giving you an update about this problem. (made new account for work comp.)

Anyway, as i mentioned above, this problem with acceleration was actually not solved by changing the air filters. Before I took it to the dealer this time, I was experiencing this acceleration problem (jerking and limp mode) almost everyday when i tried to accelerate more than 1/3 of the gas pedal.

This time i left it with the dealer over our vacation, and specifically told them to keep it until it is REALLY fixed. Now I have returned. They replaced the entire turbocharger (they said it was defect) and did this under warranty, although the car is officially out of warrenty by more than a year! I guess they realised that this problem was present during three or four of the previous repair visits, when it was still in the warranty period, and they didnt correctly diagnose the problem then.

It has been two weeks now, and the car drives like it should. Strong, turbocharged acceleration, no matter how far you press the gas pedal. Too bad it took over two years to finally solve the problem. My wife had given up all hope the car would ever drive nornmal again. Now that is finally paid off, at least it works

 

[drivbiwire]

Sounds like a jammed VNT in the turbo.

 

[roadrutz]

It is possible the turbo was damaged by particles in the incoming air if the filters were as dirty as you said. You are lucky they treated it as warranty. Anyway, glad the problem is solved!

 

[drivbiwire]

No, filters become more effective at stoping dirt the longer they remain in the engine. The engine monitors actual restriction, obviously if the filters are too efficient they begin to stop the incoming air hence the time to change them.

The key is to leave them in until the sensor detects enough restriction that a change is called for. This level of restriction is approx 25"WC which is relatively low in the scheme of things.

IF anything changing filters more often will lead to damage due to the higher amount of fine particles that can pass thru a new filter element. More frequent changes will in fact cause damage which is another reason why MB recomends the 40-60K change intervals as well as adding the electronic restriction monitoring should they need changing early.

 

[roadrutz]

No, filters become more effective at stoping dirt the longer they remain in the engine. The engine monitors actual restriction, obviously if the filters are too efficient they begin to stop the incoming air hence the time to change them.

The key is to leave them in until the sensor detects enough restriction that a change is called for. This level of restriction is approx 25"WC which is relatively low in the scheme of things.

IF anything changing filters more often will lead to damage due to the higher amount of fine particles that can pass thru a new filter element. More frequent changes will in fact cause damage which is another reason why MB recomends the 40-60K change intervals as well as adding the electronic restriction monitoring should they need changing early.

Have you ever seen what fine dust particles can do to ceramic turbo blades? I have, and it sure wasn't caused by changing the filter too often! It was caused by too much driving on dry, dusty dirt roads in Quebec and not changing the air filter frequently enough.

 

[scally10]

Faulty Turbo Charger ML 320 2006

Further to Steve from Austria's problem re the faulty turbo charger I have had the exact same problem.
I bought my ML 320d new from Agnews dealership in 2006 in Belfast and during the first three year warranty the dealer claimed that the problem was relating to the air filter, rear brake sensor and finally the valve body in the gear box which they changed and charged me for when the warranty was up. The problem persisted with cutting out during acceleration and going into safety mode. This was particularly dangerous when pulling out from a junction and overtaking. Eventually I printed out Steve's reply and told them that it was the turbo. They finally replaced the turbo and the car is now working properly. However they have just sent me a bill for almost £2000 for the turbo even though I believe they should have covered it under warranty and especially after charging me for the valve body in the gear box which obviously didnt need to be replaced at all!
Can any body advise as to how to handle this issue with the dealer as the car is now four years old and out of warranty?
Dave from Ireland

 

[LuisML]

Guys... I posted this blog last week "My 2006 ML 320CDI went into limp mode over the weekend. Took the car to MB dealer, they replaced a damaged seal on the boost pipe's inlet manifold. Drove the car the following morning (mostly highway) and it was fine. Later that afternoon, as I got on the highway and pushed it past 3000rpm it went back into limp mode. Took it back to MB dealer. They have just notified me that thay found the problem, after testing it with a "special tool", that indicated 3bar as opposed to 9... and they discovered that there was a tiny hole in the intercooler radiator, and recommended replacing it. In your opinion, is this the problem? could that be all?"

I should be getting my car back this Thursday (13th), so I'll let you know. However I'm concerned as to whether these faults are always diagnosed properly (at expense)... my turbo was replaced about 30 000km past, under goodwill replacement... this makes me think.. was the turbo ever faulty, considering that I have now developed a leak in the intercooler? are we at the mercy of these so called MB dealer specialists?????

 

[kevinchung]

my car 2006 Ml 320 cdi, has a same problem. Recently i did a gearbox full service, plus change all filter. The guy said, the air filter is very hard to open and change, some dealer charge you but did not change. Also, there is a big O ring (I don't know what is it) need to change. When use the car for long time, engine oil come out from O ring, and drop to a turbo, i saw my turbo, full of engine oil, luckily i found out, otherwise, the turbo will burn!!
After full service, the car works fine as brand new! Of course, big bill! $3k(Australia)
Kevin

 

[LuisML]

OK so here's the end result;
Intercooler replaced
Turbo replaced
MAF sensor replaced
MB dealer said it was a chain of events and cannot pinpoint what caused what first. Fortunately I didn't have to pay for the turbo (MB South Africa replaced under goodwill, but with no warranty)
Now my 320 is WICKEDLY FAST :flamg:

 

[vjesper52]

Hi All

I have the same problem, on my ML320 ´06
Today i picked up the car from the shop, after they replaced the intake manifold, and the small motor controlling the vents.
After testing the car on the road, i fealt no improvement in the turbolag, and it went right back into limp mode.
Now, question is, what to do.

The error messages on the diagnose, is "turbo preasure low", and when the mechanic looked up the code, it showed low press on cyl 10....
10 ??

I´m no car expert at all (i drive like one .. hehe) but seriously, i have no clue what, how and why something should be change.
I just know, that my car is not performing as it should, including giving me limp home mode.

Re the limp home: In the "beginning" this started very "infrequent". After a while 4-5 weeks, it got worse. Now, i cant accelerate for more than 20-30 seconds, before it goes into limp mode.
If i accelerate for 20 secs, and release the gas, and then accelerate again, the limp mode does not "enable"

I hope someone will be able to give me some assistance - taking the car to the shop, replacing piece by poiece, does not sound like a workable solution - let alone not affordable (even i might have to accept that)

Can anyone prioritize the "list" of replacable parts, to start in the "right" order

 

[[email protected]]

I was told the no acceleration, no check engine light which resets when turn off/on again is transmission valve body problem. I was quoted $2500 to replace and I am trying to nego down to $1250...Update my dealer asked mbusa and they agreed to pay 50%. So I am getting valve body replaced for about $1300.

 

[SlacKeR]

Further to Steve from Austria's problem re the faulty turbo charger I have had the exact same problem.
I bought my ML 320d new from Agnews dealership in 2006 in Belfast and during the first three year warranty the dealer claimed that the problem was relating to the air filter, rear brake sensor and finally the valve body in the gear box which they changed and charged me for when the warranty was up. The problem persisted with cutting out during acceleration and going into safety mode. This was particularly dangerous when pulling out from a junction and overtaking. Eventually I printed out Steve's reply and told them that it was the turbo. They finally replaced the turbo and the car is now working properly. However they have just sent me a bill for almost £2000 for the turbo even though I believe they should have covered it under warranty and especially after charging me for the valve body in the gear box which obviously didnt need to be replaced at all!
Can any body advise as to how to handle this issue with the dealer as the car is now four years old and out of warranty?
Dave from Ireland

Take it up with Mercedes Benz UK. Document the history of the issue and stick to your guns, also ask them to cover the cost of the previous failed work.

 

[LuisML]

Hi vjesper52,

My turbo problems on my 320, also started with limp mode and turbo pressure low.

"fortunately" the dealer diagnosed the intercooler had a hole in it (causing low pressure to the turbo), which they replaced, but that still caused the same problem as by then the turbo had overworked and went faulty... this was after 3 visits to the dealer and a case of trial by error.

So to answer your question... in my opinion there is no ""list of replacable parts, to start in the "right" order", just get the dealer to commit to a fix and prove to you that what they are replacing / fixing is actually needed (what I'm trying to say is that make sure you don't pay for things that they replace that doesn't need replacing or which they think caused the problem)

good luck and keep us posted