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The scanner will also read about 10 other AC sensors, what will let you do proper troubleshooting in case you have failure.
65F is not good day to play with AC to start with.
Once you confirmed the system is working, you should wait for a day when park car hits 100's F and then start the engine and read the sensors after couple of minutes.
AC at full blast should deliver ca 2C on evaporator +- 2 and if you see that, you have perfectly working system.
If not, you can add some r134, who at max should go around 20 bars.
Still seems those systems work very well with only 17 bars.
Beware that with W211 lift, MB deleted refrigerant temp sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Beware that with W211 lift, MB deleted refrigerant temp sensor.
Cost cutting for production no doubt, like the humidity sensor. Odd that they would get rid of it, because the pressure sensor in mine is a combi sensor with temp as well in the single sensor. Mine is pre-facelift and I have confirmed I can read the high pressure freon temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
Transmission time

So I'm pretty much done under the hood. Time to think about the transmission valve body.

I've got some harsh shifting in the lower gears especially when cold, some flaring sometimes on a couple of gears and I suspect a bad TCC coil, as when I'm going easy on the flat with no movement in the accelerator pedal in a lower gear, I can watch the RPM's slowly oscillate 50-100 RPM and I can feel it as well. And sometimes late downshifts. I've never done an automatic transmission valve body, other than to watch it done. Didn't look like rocket science, but definitely detailed and need a very clean work bench with bright lighting. Lots of fiddly bits.

So I could get some parts from Sonnax and a new TCC coil and conductor plate, or just buy the rebuilt entire valve body from Sonnax knowing that it has been fully bench tested and is ready to go. I would assume that all of the Sonnax mods are done to one of their valve bodies. Of course this costs a whole lot more than just buying the suspect parts. And if I misdiagnose, I'm doing it again! And I have no test gear for the valve body.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Look at what came today FedX. They replaced my original 250,000K badge as well due to it being in terrible condition. I think I'll try some automotive clear coat on these. That's got to help, as the first one looked like crap after just one Ohio winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Transmission time

@MAVA
I'm told you are one of the experts and I'd love to have your opinion on the 722.6 Transmission valve body rebuild in my 2006 E320 CDI. Boiling it down- Buy a few parts from Sonnax, or just buy a rebuilt valve body that is already pre-tested from Sonnax. (Or perhaps some other route.)

Note that this is not my first trouble with the tranny. It gave me trouble at first at about 225K miles and now it is back at 322K miles. I had a transmission shop fix it the first time at considerable cost. Now I'm looking at doing it myself.

I've got some harsh shifting in the lower gears especially when cold, some flaring sometimes on a couple of gears and I suspect a bad TCC coil, as when I'm going easy on the flat with no movement in the accelerator pedal in a lower gear, I can watch the RPM's slowly oscillate 50-100 RPM and I can feel it as well. And sometimes late downshifts. I've never done an automatic transmission valve body myself, other than to watch it done. Didn't look like rocket science, but definitely detailed and need a very clean work bench with bright lighting. Lots of fiddly bits.

So I could get some parts from Sonnax and a new TCC coil and conductor plate, or just buy the rebuilt entire valve body from Sonnax knowing that it has been fully bench tested and is ready to go. I would assume that all of the Sonnax mods are done to one of their valve bodies. Of course this costs a whole lot more than just buying the suspect parts. And if I misdiagnose, I'm doing it again! And I have no test gear for the valve body.
 

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A sonnax valve body is like $1400 which has all the updates, but a replacement new Mercedes valve body is like $400-$500. Look on EPC for the correct P/N. Then you can go to a self serve junk yard and find your self a 04/05 C-class or ML, and you may find it for under $100, but this Memorial Day wknd most are having 1/2-off sales, so you can get the whole valve body with solenoids, and conductor plate for about $40 to $50. i would take that gamble first:

Self Serve Junk Yards

https://row52.com/Search

https://www.picknpull.com/events_and_specials.aspx


https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/

https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/deals


Here is Mercedes on-line parts house:

https://www.mercedespartsdepot.com/

https://www.mboemparts.com/

https://www.mercedespartshub.com/



These guys sell Sonnax parts and valve bodies:

Mercedes transmission parts,TransmissionpartsUSA.com

MB Valve Bodies Mercedes transmission parts

Hope it helps you,

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #148
A sonnax valve body is like $1400 which has all the updates, but a replacement new Mercedes valve body is like $400-$500. Look on EPC for the correct P/N. Then you can go to a self serve junk yard and find your self a 04/05 C-class or ML, and you may find it for under $100, but this Memorial Day wknd most are having 1/2-off sales, so you can get the whole valve body with solenoids, and conductor plate for about $40 to $50. i would take that gamble first:

Self Serve Junk Yards...
I actually found a new Sonnax valve body for $650. Yep, $1400 is a bit salty. The MB Parts sites are not much help it seems... or I just don't know how to surf them.

But WOW! I didn't know junkyards still existed where you could go pull your own parts. I used to LOVE to do that. I thought the liability laws shut them down. Turns out I've got THREE of them not far from me. Who knew! But yeah, if I can get the whole valve body that cheap, then I can screw around with it at my leisure without pressure to get the car back on the road. (I need another garage so I can have extra cars around.)

So that brings the question of the casting number of the valve body. Apparently, it's important to put a valve body back in your car that has the same casting number? Is that true? That would make pulling one at a junk yard a bit more of a challenge, as you'd have to match the casting number.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Headlamps

Who is the manufacturer of the Bi-Xenon AFS headlamp for the W211? I think it is Hella part 1YL 158696-02 based on a post over on MBWorld.

The reason I am asking is that I've had a problem since I've owned the car of when it gets cold, say below 35F, the AFS system will sometimes stick and they will be pointing low. Sometimes it is just one that is low; sometimes both. Usually it is fixed by letting the car warm up, then shutting the car off, then back on and they will then level correctly. It sometimes takes shutting it off a few times. The only time this doesn't work is when it is really extremely cold.

What I don't know is if this is a mechanical problem or if this is a sensor problem. If it's mechanical, some cleaning and some high quality lube in the gimbals may be the ticket. This is probably another argument to own a STAR diag system, so I can see what is going on electronically to determine if it is a sensor issue or a mechanical one.

Since I'm planning to put new lenses on them, That would be a good time to look at the internals and do cleaning/lubing,but I have no idea what the manufacturer would recommend. They probably just want to sell me new ones, but it's worth exploring.
 

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A bit salty, I like that..... I got to use that in my bag of tricks...

The casting is just when you order a replacement, but the junk yard just find a late model C/ML/SLK/S before the 722.9, and you will be fine.

The parts houses are terrible for part identification, yet for that you need to look at the EPC parts drawing, and pull the part number from your vin. Then put the part number in the part house search engine.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #152
Bosch Diesel Injector Drain O-rings 3.5x1.2mm

I have definitively determined that the o-rings for the injector drains are 3.5mm ID x 1.2mm cross section. They are also 90 durometer buna-N (NBR). These came today and I installed them. These fit perfectly and have a nice feel of just the right amount of compression when you slip the drain nipple back into the injector. (I apologize for saying they were 3.5x1.0mm in the past. That was an error.)

Here is my source. $1 for 10 o-rings... $3 for shipping.
Buna 90 O-rings 3.5 x 1.2mm Price for 10 pcs - OringsandMore

Take a look at the photos below. On one on top is an old one, as you can see some erosion from age. The bottom one is the new o-ring which does appear to be ever so slightly thicker, but that is only because the old o-rings were compressed for 13 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
My left low beam (HID Xenon) started flashing periodically this morning. The last time one went out (maybe 150K miles ago), it just died and didn't do any flashing, so I replaced both. So the flashing is a bit weird. Makes me wonder if the ballast is dying. The only way I know of testing I can think of is to switch the bulbs from left to right and see if the flashing follows the bulb or not, which is a pain. Any other suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #155
That would be bet way IMO.
Ok, so I installed a new bulb on the left side. No change. So I swapped the black ignition modules from left to right. No change. I guess that leaves the ballast module that is under the light assembly. Does anyone know if that module has to be programmed?
 

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Discussion Starter #157
It should not have to be programmed because the car is already set to Xenon present.
Yes, I confirmed this with the dealer. By moving everything around, I've pretty much confirmed it's got to be the "ballast". So the stealership wants $650 for one. It is part 0028202326. Looks like these fall into the $150 range from reputable parts houses and $90 on Amazon. I'm going to try this generic knockoff from Amazon for $28 on Prime. I figure the worst that can happen is it doesn't work and I return it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KJP4NPL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only other possibility is a broken wire. I hope it is not that.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
I decided to stick with the original Sachs shocks and ordered a complete set with parts from FCP Euro. I'm attracted to the slightly stiffer Bilstein B6's or even the B12 kit with mild lowering, but it was hard to argue with the total cost of $430 with shipping on the Sach's set-up on the Memorial day sale this weekend. I was pretty happy with the originals for the first 100K, even though it didn't give me a more sporty handling feel. Since most of my driving is long haul hours at a time, a softer ride is welcome.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-shock-absorber-service-kit-sachs-2113239400-kit-2113239400kt3
 

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I decided to stick with the original Sachs shocks and ordered a complete set with parts from FCP Euro. I'm attracted to the slightly stiffer Bilstein B6's or even the B12 kit with mild lowering, but it was hard to argue with the total cost of $430 with shipping on the Sach's set-up on the Memorial day sale this weekend. I was pretty happy with the originals for the first 100K, even though it didn't give me a more sporty handling feel. Since most of my driving is long haul hours at a time, a softer ride is welcome.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-shock-absorber-service-kit-sachs-2113239400-kit-2113239400kt3
I put the same struts on my 05 CDI. The Sach's replacements are adjustable for multiple applications. Make sure you measure the original spring compression to get the correct ride height. I used a shop to move the springs to the new struts. They did not change the setting as shipped and the car was about 2" too high. I ended up talking my car to a local independent import shop to got the ride height corrected. I think they used the second grove from the bottom.
 
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