Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

121 - 140 of 210 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
The LSD if you build it up plan on $1500-2000. If you pay a shop to build it- expect $3000+. It's only 2 hrs labor to R&R. I would buy a used one to build.

You description about the wet-traction is exactly what I don't like. I put one in my 500e and it was huge -dry and wet difference.

On my bucket list..

The egr works the hardest (I think) when it is cold. The newer diesel oils suspend more soot b/c the OM642 max bleed was ??40% or something really high. Sorry if I miss qouted what I read- been a couple years. I switched mine over to Motul 5w40 when we purchased the car and the motor was instantly quieter.

Michael
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
It is a baby! That's great.

I have to ask why you think a different type of Mobile 1 oil would have anything to do with the EGR valve carboning up. The EGR carbons from the exhaust gasses as that is all it is exposed to. The gasses are hitting the EGR at full heat before the gasses go through the cooler. I haven't analyzed it, but my guess is that if you drive slower/city it's going to carbon more/faster than highway.

But carboning up isn't a failure. If it's just carboning up, you can buy some Wynn's Diesel EGR cleaner off E-Bay and spray it through. I'm not sure if it is any different than old school carburetor cleaner. I have used the EGR cleaner and carb cleaner through it spraying it in after the air filter. Both release a lot of carbon from the system.

If your EGR truly failed, it may have been like mine; the feedback sensor in it failed. When I took the plastic cover off, I could see it move to full open, then back to full closed when I started the engine. But after that, the diagnostic computer couldn't "see" any movement from it via it's feedback sensor, so it put the engine in limp mode with zero turbo boost. Upon replacing the EGR, I could see an entire range of positions of the EGR and the engine was operating normally.
The oil is called Mobil 1 ESP and ESP stands for emission systems protection. So the little bit of oil that gets past the rings gets burned and becomes part of your exhaust and will screw up the DPF. I'm not sure how much of this, that i just wrote, I believe in though. Like you said, most of damage to the EGR is probably from the raw exhaust recirculated through the intake. I don't even have a DPF and I'd like to run the same oil (Mobil 1 Truck and Diesel 0 - 40W) that I used on my 2001 VW Jetta TDI which I put 400k miles without ever doing anything but routine maintenance to the engine. The TDI is what inspired me to buy the CDI. So for now I'm using the Mobil 1 European Formula 0 - 40W which meets Mercedes Spec for my CDI.

The symptoms of my failing EGR valve were lots of black smoke when accelerating hard, engine surging on acceleration, and an occasional check engine light. I didn't feel like messing with cleaning the EGR valve so I just purchased a brand new one for $350 and installed it. Car ran great afterwards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,655 Posts
I lost faith in Mobil1 after it become clear it generate higher iron and M1 representative on chat room choose not to answer the question.
Dealers use M1 and when that was never investigated, several Bluetecs seized while under dealers service. Main indication is that dealers did not put recommended, new generation oils for Bluetecs, but used M1 ESP formula design for older diesels.
Whatever it is, it stinks and I am buying German oils at Autohousaz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #124
So I'm considering buying a Star diagnostic C4. Someone posted you can get them from USA suppliers for $600. I've found them from Chinese suppliers for that price, but not US.

So do these require relicensing every year, or are they good with no additional long term costs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Why wouldn't get just get a C3 version- they are much cheaper. I think I paid ~$350 for mine. Had it 2 years now, no issues other than replacing the $15 battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #126
Why wouldn't get just get a C3 version- they are much cheaper. I think I paid ~$350 for mine. Had it 2 years now, no issues other than replacing the $15 battery.
I don't know why. I simply assumed that the most recent version is what I should get so it would be the latest and have the greatest flexibility. But perhaps that is incorrect thinking. Let's also assume this is not my only MB vehicle and I'll buy others in the future. I also own a 2017 GLC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,178 Posts
So I'm considering buying a Star diagnostic C4. Someone posted you can get them from USA suppliers for $600. I've found them from Chinese suppliers for that price, but not US.

So do these require relicensing every year, or are they good with no additional long term costs?
Chinese suppliers, yep. That's where I got mine. Yeah, I've got a little Chinesium that touches my Benz....

They do not require relicensing every year. You can generate keys to last 50 years if you want.

Why wouldn't get just get a C3 version- they are much cheaper. I think I paid ~$350 for mine. Had it 2 years now, no issues other than replacing the $15 battery.
I also have a C3 system. The price you're quoting is for the MUX, cables, and possibly the hard disk drive with the software; it does not typically include the laptop. Dell Latitude D830's, what I use, are about $50 to $100 for one in good shape (that's the key--good shape). Also, I'd replace the battery with a new one, as the original batteries are pretty much at the end of their useful life. A new high-capacity battery is about $100.

My C3 setup, once I got done--the whole thing, turn-key, including the new hi-cap battery--was about $600. The C4 system--same stuff--was $100 more to build, due to the MUX, so about $700.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
The $600 C4 systems are for US ppl loading the chinese software. A MB licensed copy is $20k+ I'm told. Yes, you would be limited by C3 to approximately 2012.

The diff isn't a OE swap with a Kompressor, it is the same diff casing and there are aftermarket LSD designed to work with the Kompressor. I believe, the ratio is identical between the cars @ 2.65:1.


Michael
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #129
Chinese suppliers, yep. That's where I got mine. Yeah, I've got a little Chinesium that touches my Benz....
They do not require relicensing every year. You can generate keys to last 50 years if you want.

I also have a C3 system. The price you're quoting is for the MUX, cables, and possibly the hard disk drive with the software; it does not typically include the laptop. Dell Latitude D830's, what I use, are about $50 to $100 for one in good shape (that's the key--good shape). Also, I'd replace the battery with a new one, as the original batteries are pretty much at the end of their useful life. A new high-capacity battery is about $100.

My C3 setup, once I got done--the whole thing, turn-key, including the new hi-cap battery--was about $600. The C4 system--same stuff--was $100 more to build, due to the MUX, so about $700.
So I'm hearing you say that these more recent Chinese version work fine. You can turn stuff on/off, etc. and you haven't had any trouble? Does everything a "Legit" copy can do?

Since you have both C3 and C4, what's the difference? Just being able to work on newer cars with C4?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #130
I've sized the o-rings for the injector drain fittings and found that they are 3.5 x 1 mm. They also appear to be standard Buna-N (NBR). This is actually not an easy size to find locally and I ordered some from Fleabay. $2 for 50 orings... $3 for the shipping! LOL

Mine were actually still quite pliable, so I put the originals back into service until new ones arrive. The new drain line is now in place.
NO!!! CORRECTION! These o-rings are not 3.5 x 1mm. So my help in sizing them at a local o-ring house was incorrect. They are a thicker cross section than 1mm, but the 3.5mm seems correct. I'll try again. It's probably a 1.5mm cross section.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #131
Driving light lenses- are they fog lights down in the lower bumper? Those glass ones get to look frosted with all the miles. I did new lenses and put Laminx on all my front lights.
OK. I need to get a driver's side lens. The driver's side replacement fog light I got was TOTAL CRAP! Wrong indexing on the lamp insertion, the lap's tabs had been nipped with side cutters to get them in because the slots were too narrow, the internal support was way to weak and something inside it was rattling! Yikes.

This is it. DO NOT buy it for your car.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2004-2005-2006-Left-driver-fog-light-Mercedes-Benz-E-class-W211-E320-E500/152522756768?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,655 Posts
I already own a iCarsoft CR PRO, which does everything the MB II does, except it does just about every other car made. It's a great unit. Love it. Very very useful.

However, it will NOT allow me to turn one thing off at a time for testing, do the SBC brake bleed, turn on/off features, etc. The Star diagnostics is required for those things.
MaxiEcu does SBC brakes.
I never used it as I did not have car with SBC, but check the procedure in menu.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #133
I replaced my front grill with a Pac-Rim/Chinese version off of Amazon. The original grill was still sound mechanically, but it looks like crap after 322K miles. The new one looks good and was a perfect fit. It does seem to be made of a slightly less dense plastic, so I don't know how well it will hold up long term. But for $60, it's worth the risk. I still have the original if this one shatters.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLHCQYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #134
You guys will love this S#$t. This one is a rant. My apology ahead of time. So as I said, I like to do some basic service at the stealership to keep my relationship with them. It's not too horrible in price if you carefully choose what they do... but after this last trip, I am questioning that practice. Here's what happened.

So a basic oil change was needed and I had them top off a few things. I hate disposing of oil, so this is a good one to have someone else do. It was an "A" service. (And I also needed them to turn on the AC system humidity sensor as well. I "negotiated" this charge down to $100.) Also, the cap on the dipstick tube's "nose" had broken off and was stuck in the tube. It's an easy fix of course requiring just 2 bolts to be removed, but I figured if they were doing an oil change, I'd have them do it as it's a 15 minute thing and you need to check the oil level after the change.

They finish and bring me the car. Before I leave, I grab my dipstick out of the trunk and go to pull the cap off the dipstick tube... and the piece is still broken off in the tube. What?!?!?! So how did the tech check the oil level? Elfin magic? I immediately complain to the service coordinator manager (who I've dealt with for 20 years) and ask him how they checked the oil level and I get a blank stare. So I bought a new cap from them, took it home, pulled the tube off, blew the rubber piece out of the dipstick tube and reassembled. So I check the oil and... over 2 liters LOW! Suffice it to say, I was a bit pissed off. (How low does the oil have to be for the low level sensor to kick in?)

This is not the first time I've had trouble with the dealership's service and how they stand behind things... or should I say, DON't stand behind things. I think I need to first write a letter to the general manager outlining some historical problems and then reconsider my practice of taking my car to the stealership at all. Very, very sad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,655 Posts
What makes you think they ever use dipstick for checking oil level?
Typical routine for the shop is to drain oil for for 60 seconds, fill up the rated amount of oil and push it outside the door.
That is why everybody who uses shop reports slight overfill as with good amount of old oil who had no time to drip from the pan, that is what it comes to.
So the highlighted question would be >>> did you check the oil level on previous services?
Newer cars have sensors who will warn about too much oil, but I don't think yours do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #136
Oil fill fiasco

What makes you think they ever use dipstick for checking oil level?
Typical routine for the shop is to drain oil for for 60 seconds, fill up the rated amount of oil and push it outside the door.
That is why everybody who uses shop reports slight overfill as with good amount of old oil who had no time to drip from the pan, that is what it comes to.
So the highlighted question would be >>> did you check the oil level on previous services?
Newer cars have sensors who will warn about too much oil, but I don't think yours do.
Your not helping my cynicism toward the stealership! LOL But frankly, they do it to themselves. Yes, I've checked it in the past and it's not been perfect, but usually within a couple of mm of the 134mm +/- 1mm full fill spec, but always on the overfill side.

Now here's an interesting thing that happened after I took it back to them. They filled it up, but they filled it to 145mm, which they said is the maximum allowable fill. Not according to my documentation. My documentations shows 138mm being the highest and that is 1/2 liter overfill.

What say ye?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #137
Circling back to the AC system

This is probably covered somewhere else in this forum, so I apologize for asking what is probably a tired question.

So my humidity sensor I bought from Fleabay I installed and it is supposedly turned on by the dealer. So now my attention again turns toward the freon level. The AC system on this car has never been cracked for the record. So pretty leak-free for a system assembled in Feb 2006.

First I looked at the pressure in the system using my iCarsoft computer and the car's AC pressure sensor. At idle, it's running at 9.5 bar (138 PSI); at 2300 RPM, it's running at 10.1 bar (146 PSI). It was 69F in the garage running the test. Using the pressure charts I found online, that would seemingly be slightly on the low side of nominal, so perhaps just needs a bit of freon to bring it to within spec across the normal engine RPM range? This all assumes that the on-board sensor is still accurate. Pressure transducers are not prone to drift; they normally just go kaput when they die. I could try to confirm the transducer with a gauge, assuming I could get a decent set for cheap. My experience is that transducers are generally much more accurate than analog gauges, so if the gauge didn't agree with the transducer, I really wouldn't be sure which one was accurate. I would tend to believe the transducer.

So it's supposed to have 950 grams of freon in it. The only way to know the actual weight of the freon 100% is to pump it down and then refill weighing canisters as I go. I don't own an AC vacuum pump. I see these cheap vacuum pumps with gauge kits and manifold on Fleabay. Don't know how good they are, but for $100, it might be a good investment for all my cars... assuming the gauges are accurate. I'd have to compare the readings of the gauges to a known set of good gauges. But pumping it down is probably a bit of overkill since it is working pretty well and just has the occasional humidity induced icing problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
A/C comments,

You might well be a little low on freon. There can be slight leakage over the years for sure. I would go over the line running and look for oily spots which is usually a sign. Be aware that these newer cars tend to be pickier than older stuff on the proper freon level. I don't think checking charge level @ 69 F is accurate. You can pull down the system, add an ounce of proper oil, and then refill by weight. If not, you should re-check the system on a 95-100F day.
I threw away my HF gauge set- they worked but the plastic handles broke fairly quick after purchase. I'd buy a decent set of gauges, then borrow or by a cheapo vacuum pump. If you havent opened the system, it doesn't need to pull down very well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #139
A/C comments,

You might well be a little low on freon. There can be slight leakage over the years for sure. I would go over the line running and look for oily spots which is usually a sign. Be aware that these newer cars tend to be pickier than older stuff on the proper freon level. I don't think checking charge level @ 69 F is accurate. You can pull down the system, add an ounce of proper oil, and then refill by weight. If not, you should re-check the system on a 95-100F day.
I threw away my HF gauge set- they worked but the plastic handles broke fairly quick after purchase. I'd buy a decent set of gauges, then borrow or by a cheapo vacuum pump. If you havent opened the system, it doesn't need to pull down very well.
I guess I'm not understanding why you think it wouldn't be accurate on a 69F degree day. The charts for the pressures of the freon take ambient temperature into account. Granted, I'll check it at a higher ambient temps before trying to fill. Once ambient gets up another 15F, if the pressure continues to be on the low end of nominal at speed and low at idle, I'll add some freon.

Looking at the attached chart, I believe I should have been at a minimum of 145 PSI at idle, not 138 PSI. The normal 2300 RPM I'm at down the highway was at 146 PSI, but probably should be around 155 PSI. So I estimate I'm running 8-10 PSI low.

No signs of any leaky hoses. All seems dry and solid.

I've never screwed with an AC system before, so I'm moving slowly.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
402 Posts
First I looked at the pressure in the system using my iCarsoft computer and the car's AC pressure sensor. At idle, it's running at 9.5 bar (138 PSI); at 2300 RPM, it's running at 10.1 bar (146 PSI). It was 69F in the garage running the test.
Are you saying you can check the AC pressures by JUST using the iCarsoft MB II scanner?
Mike T.
 
121 - 140 of 210 Posts
About this Discussion
209 Replies
19 Participants
smyers
Mercedes-Benz Forum
BenzWorld.org forum is one of the largest Mercedes-Benz owner websites offering the most comprehensive collection of Mercedes-Benz information anywhere in the world. The site includes MB Forums, News, Galleries, Publications, Classifieds, Events and much more!
Full Forum Listing
Top