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Discussion Starter #101
I stopped by the dealership again today to pick up a few odd small rubber parts and to discuss service I have scheduled Thursday, as well as SBC and power steering flush. While I obviously can do service myself, I do still take it in for A & B service, but I "subtract" out a number of things that I do myself to bring cost down. I like to keep the relationship with the guys at the dealership who work in service.

So I'm having my SBC brakes flushed/bled, as it's been about 2 years. I take no chances with the SBC brakes and make sure full liability is on the dealer, and the fact you can't do it right without the Star service tool. But man has that service went up in price! It was $200 the last time and now it's up to $285. Grrr. I called another independent local shop that I have never used that has the star diagnostics and they quoted me $175, but I am hesitant to let anyone but the dealer touch the SBC system. I'm not sure the money savings is worth the risk on the SBC system. Thoughts? (Yes, I'm aware of the 25 year warranty.)

Power steering flush. I've never attempted it, except in old muscle cars years ago. At 322K miles, the fluid is bound to be pretty oxidized and contaminated with wear particles. Yeah, I know the dealers say "they don't recommend flushing the power steering". My guess is that recommendation is based on a 7 year ownership. The guys in service don't really buy it if you talk to them "off the record", but they have to tow the line with MB. So my problem - I don't know how to flush a power steering system. I see a bleed procedure in the WIS, but I don't see a draining procedure. I know how to do a partial flush without introducing air at all, which is probably good enough and exchanges 80%+ of the fluid.
 

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Good point about comparing trusted indy mechanic v/s dealer mechanic.
IMHO you see indy mechanic who will work on his car, when at dealer most of "technicians" are former Game Boy guys, who are good with keyboards, but what are their experience in wrenching?
If the indy has MB USA certification, for warranty purpose he is as good as stealer.
 

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smyes,

That's great news on 300,000 miles. I would always recommend all fluid changes- assume you've done the DIFF. Have you poked around at the rear suspension? The front usually tends to need attention regularly with thrust links and lower ball joints. I would guess, that the rack and pinnion has some isolator bushings- might be good to replace them.
What do you mean by choppy shifting? Are you doing 39000 mile Trans services? Did you replace the solenoids and the conductor plate or just clean the screens on the solenoids?

I would replace the power steering fluid. I would get a OE reservoir as part of the service and then you get new orings/gaskets for installation.
If you are planning on chipping- then you can disable the EGR. You can also use a 47 k ohm resistor to defeat it for future reference. If you do all that- you might want to stream line the mixing pipe... effectively removing restriction.

I'm interested in a headunit which will replace my H-K system.

PM me on the LSD differential. That's on my bucket list. I think the Kompressor one will work-but it hasn't been done yet. I talked to a few shops and got a wow-that's a great idea...
 

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FYI,

I think you can buy new covers for the headlights which will be hardcoated out of Taiwan from ebay. Much better long term solution than polishing. Dealer sells the driving light lens for ~$20/each discounted.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
smyes,

That's great news on 300,000 miles. I would always recommend all fluid changes- assume you've done the DIFF. Have you poked around at the rear suspension? The front usually tends to need attention regularly with thrust links and lower ball joints. I would guess, that the rack and pinnion has some isolator bushings- might be good to replace them.
What do you mean by choppy shifting? Are you doing 39000 mile Trans services? Did you replace the solenoids and the conductor plate or just clean the screens on the solenoids?

I would replace the power steering fluid. I would get a OE reservoir as part of the service and then you get new orings/gaskets for installation.
If you are planning on chipping- then you can disable the EGR. You can also use a 47 k ohm resistor to defeat it for future reference. If you do all that- you might want to stream line the mixing pipe... effectively removing restriction.

I'm interested in a headunit which will replace my H-K system.

PM me on the LSD differential. That's on my bucket list. I think the Kompressor one will work-but it hasn't been done yet. I talked to a few shops and got a wow-that's a great idea...
Sadly, no, I have not changed out the differential oil. Not good. But, I have kept it topped off, as it has a very, very slow leak. I've kept the suspension serviced, short of the shocks, which is one of my next jobs. I'll check those bushings on the rack and pinion.

Yes, I know all about the clutch coil going bad, connector plate and other internal leak points on the valve body. It's doing the same thing it did about 130K ago. This time, I'm going to use the Sonnax sleeves and parts.

I'll look into the power steering reservoir.

I'm more of a keep it mostly factory stock, unless I'm seriously going to hop it up kind of guy. I'm not going to disable the EGR. I'm not sure why everyone gets so bent around the axle on it since a replacement EGR is only $225. My original EGR lasted over $300K miles with no problems! Yeah, an EGR is a goofy thing, but I'm just going to keep it in there and working. I've seen the 47K resistor mod from Alex's video. Not a fan for a lot of reasons. I'd get the EGR emulator if I did it. I'm guessing that the 47K resistor doesn't turn off the check engine light, as it has to get the feedback signal from the EGR so the computer thinks it is working. Mine never got gunked up like people talk about. What happened to mine is that the position feedback sensor in it went bad. When I took the original off, it had a light carbon coating internally and that was it. Even when I did the mixer tube gasket repair, the mixer wasn't bad internally. Maybe it's my 80 MPH 4 hour trips that keep it cleaned out. As far as chipping, I'm really on the fence. This car has ran so well. The MB factory engineers really got this tune on the engine well balanced. I haven't looked into it yet though, I I'd guess I'm a year out from that as that is absolutely last on the priority list.

I'll certainly let you know what I learn as I get to the H-K head unit replacement issue. I don't have high hopes, but I'm hoping one is truly compatible.

I'll let you know on the LSD when I get there. Again, that is near the end of the list, so it will be a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
where's the coolant drain plug on the OM648?
I should take a photo. So it's a large plug under the intake manifold and you really can only see it from under the car. I think it was 17mm, but don't quote me on that. It takes a socket and long wobble extension to get on it right. It's got a nipple in the center that you can put a tube on to keep the mess to a minimum. A lot still leaks out around the threads however.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
FYI,

I think you can buy new covers for the headlights which will be hardcoated out of Taiwan from ebay. Much better long term solution than polishing. Dealer sells the driving light lens for ~$20/each discounted.
I actually bought those a few weeks ago and am going to give it a try.

What are "driving light lenses"?
 

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I'm more of a keep it mostly factory stock, unless I'm seriously going to hop it up kind of guy. I'm not going to disable the EGR. I'm not sure why everyone gets so bent around the axle on it since a replacement EGR is only $225. My original EGR lasted over $300K miles with no problems!
From what I have read on these forums, 95-percent of EGR issues were with the 2005 model year cdi's. MB must have updated the EGR for 2006.
Mike T.
 

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EGR valve size was increased in 2006 and I believe there was a TSB to fix the 2005s.

That's great to hear the EGR was reliable for so long. I think for me, I would also just replace it if they are still reasonably priced when/if mine fails.

The wavtech is a fine unit- these are all Torsion-gleason (sp?) derivatives. I think the UK version has been the most popular with the hot-rodders I know. They do make one which fits the E55AMG and our diesel should have the same case and I think even the same gear ratio. Ideally, you can get a used W211.026 diff and dissemble the carrier. Bet you can find a E55 carrier from someone whom's done the mod... and you can compare before spending over a grand on a unit which might or might not work.

I've seen common discussion on rear springs breaking- is that just the lower coil? Do tell as I'm at 130,000 miles. I'll probably re-do the rear brakes this next year just to change over to a less dusty pad set. I was hoping that was just some sort of freaky manufacturing defect and the next batch would be fine.

I've seen the sonnax parts and I've also considered the AMG blue solenoids for shifting speed. There seems to be a slight delay and I cannot tell you off the top of my head if it's 2nd to 3rd or a different gear change. When I was buying my car, the MB guy in Atlanta suggested that these gear boxes last 250-350,000 miles and are easy to rebuild. Have you checked with the SDS to see how far into the correction range the tranmission is? I haven't on mine.
 

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Driving light lenses- are they fog lights down in the lower bumper? Those glass ones get to look frosted with all the miles. I did new lenses and put Laminx on all my front lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Driving light lenses- are they fog lights down in the lower bumper? Those glass ones get to look frosted with all the miles. I did new lenses and put Laminx on all my front lights.
You can also buy 2 new complete fog light on Fleabay for about $40. I went that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
EGR valve size was increased in 2006 and I believe there was a TSB to fix the 2005s.

That's great to hear the EGR was reliable for so long. I think for me, I would also just replace it if they are still reasonably priced when/if mine fails.

The wavtech is a fine unit- these are all Torsion-gleason (sp?) derivatives. I think the UK version has been the most popular with the hot-rodders I know. They do make one which fits the E55AMG and our diesel should have the same case and I think even the same gear ratio. Ideally, you can get a used W211.026 diff and dissemble the carrier. Bet you can find a E55 carrier from someone whom's done the mod... and you can compare before spending over a grand on a unit which might or might not work.

I've seen common discussion on rear springs breaking- is that just the lower coil? Do tell as I'm at 130,000 miles. I'll probably re-do the rear brakes this next year just to change over to a less dusty pad set. I was hoping that was just some sort of freaky manufacturing defect and the next batch would be fine.

I've seen the sonnax parts and I've also considered the AMG blue solenoids for shifting speed. There seems to be a slight delay and I cannot tell you off the top of my head if it's 2nd to 3rd or a different gear change. When I was buying my car, the MB guy in Atlanta suggested that these gear boxes last 250-350,000 miles and are easy to rebuild. Have you checked with the SDS to see how far into the correction range the tranmission is? I haven't on mine.
On the LS Diff. Yeah, don't know if I'll do it or not. Depends on what it will cost. I've gotten great service from the original diff. But when I'm in the mountains and using engine brake, it can slip. And of course in wet weather, it will break traction, especially when cornering under power. That annoys the hell out of me and always has. I hate when traction control kicks in due to one tire slipping. The dealer said my diff ratio is 2.65:1. I haven't confirmed that with my wheels in the air yet.

There is only 1 coil per side on the rear of a non-airmatic W211 suspension. The coil tends to break in the first turn at the bottom.

I was talked into doing a full rebuild of my tranny and torque converter replacement at 265K due to shifting issues. I probably didn't need a full rebuild at that time. So now here at 322K, the shifting is getting wonky again especially when cold, just like it did before. Typical of the 722.6. It's that valve body of course. I've heard talk of the blue AMG coils before. I'm not sure what that would do for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #115
As mentioned, I bought replacement lenses for my head lamps. It is my understanding that a flow-able windshield adhesive should be used to glue them on. Easy enough. But there are a few types of this stuff. I believe the current standard is urethane, which is some good stuff. But I don't want it reacting with the plastic.

Anyone here ever done this replacement? If so, what kind of sealant did you use?
 

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"I'm not going to disable the EGR. I'm not sure why everyone gets so bent around the axle on it since a replacement EGR is only $225. My original EGR lasted over $300K miles with no problems! Yeah, an EGR is a goofy thing, but I'm just going to keep it in there and working."


What type of engine oil have you been using over the 300k miles? I'm running the Mobil 1 European formula but I'm thinking about switching to Mobil 1 ESP so that my EGR valve might last longer in my 2005 CDI. I had to replace the EGR valve at 70k miles and I bought the car with 50k miles on it so I don't know the type of oil the previous owner was using. The old EGR valve was gunked up pretty. I'd love to have my EGR valve last 300k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
What type of engine oil have you been using over the 300k miles?
I didn't know until you just now asked. The oil changes have all been done by the dealership. I hate screwing around with oil and disposing of it. The stealership have always told me that they use standard 0-40W Mobile 1 in it.

Keep in mind that most of my driving is highway for hours at a time. So my engine is sitting at 2300+ RPM. I'm sure start/stop city driving would yield different EGR results. So how many miles are on it now?
 

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I didn't know until you just now asked. The oil changes have all been done by the dealership. I hate screwing around with oil and disposing of it. The stealership have always told me that they use standard 0-40W Mobile 1 in it.

Keep in mind that most of my driving is highway for hours at a time. So my engine is sitting at 2300+ RPM. I'm sure start/stop city driving would yield different EGR results. So how many miles are on it now?
I got 84K miles on it now. It's just a baby.
 

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Discussion Starter #120
I got 84K miles on it now. It's just a baby.
It is a baby! That's great.

I have to ask why you think a different type of Mobile 1 oil would have anything to do with the EGR valve carboning up. The EGR carbons from the exhaust gasses as that is all it is exposed to. The gasses are hitting the EGR at full heat before the gasses go through the cooler. I haven't analyzed it, but my guess is that if you drive slower/city it's going to carbon more/faster than highway.

But carboning up isn't a failure. If it's just carboning up, you can buy some Wynn's Diesel EGR cleaner off E-Bay and spray it through. I'm not sure if it is any different than old school carburetor cleaner. I have used the EGR cleaner and carb cleaner through it spraying it in after the air filter. Both release a lot of carbon from the system.

If your EGR truly failed, it may have been like mine; the feedback sensor in it failed. When I took the plastic cover off, I could see it move to full open, then back to full closed when I started the engine. But after that, the diagnostic computer couldn't "see" any movement from it via it's feedback sensor, so it put the engine in limp mode with zero turbo boost. Upon replacing the EGR, I could see an entire range of positions of the EGR and the engine was operating normally.
 
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