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2006 E320 CDI
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Discussion Starter #21
@CheckEngine
@Rossafuss

Yep! When I started this adventure, I subscribed to Alex's channel. I followed his "Black Death" repair video and bought the tools he recommended. That was instrumental in the details of that repair. I'm more of a "keep it stock" for the most part kind of guy, so I won't be doing most of his mods. I won't be removing swirl valves, putting larger turbo on, lowering, etc. Yes, I might chip it, but only "gently".

One thing I should mention... When I bought the car, I did buy the factory STAR Service manual DVD as well. That is worth it's weight in gold. I did recently buy the emanualonline version that Alex recommended as well to see if it had more in it. It's a horrifically huge download (if you want the version with active links, which are necessary to really use it) and it is not as good as the original STAR service DVD. It includes too many versions of the car making it much more difficult to use. The factory DVD is far superior and worth it's original cost. Both the STAR Service and the emanualonline versions require running an XP emulator. No biggie, just one more thing to install. Granted, the cost of the STAR service manual DVD is $100, but it is just better and easier to work with because it is vehicle specific.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
A little more work today. Removed the air filter, air ducting, oil fill cap assembly and the plate that covers the turbo and cleaned up more black death leftovers and did an inspection. All is well there. I'll get to the drivers side of the engine bay on another day. I also replaced my right fog lamp, as it was broken by road debris over the winter. This definitely pushes the wet sanding/polishing of the headlamps up to a higher priority, as they look pretty awful compared to the new fog lamp. I also learned that my center underbody panel is broken, so that'll have to be replaced.

Baby steps.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The next little "leaky" area I need to deal with appears to be around the charge air pipe and intake manifold junction. Has anyone here dealt with this? If it is just that gasket between the manifold and the pipe, I'm hoping it is easy. Looking at the service manual it doesn't appear there is much else right there that could leak that much.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
LOL yeah sure, when monkeys fly out of your butt.
LOL

Well, I don't know about the flying butt monkeys, but I have driven 250 Bluetec. Its a completely different feel. 6 cylinder give much smoother power then 4. Probably the thing I noticed the most was the difference in the shifting. The E320 has the 5 speed tranny while the 250 has the 7 speed. Narrower torque band I'd guess.

Oddly, the HP & torque ratings on the 250 and 320 engines are similar, so that most likely means that the 320 is a much more conservative design with a wider torque band. What I noted when I first started driving the E320 is that its torque reminded me of the V8's of the late 60's early 70's. Smooth and effortless.

Mileage and feel - Well, I can tell you that when I'm driving in the mountains my E320 seemingly doesn't even know it's going up a steep hill. Like 15% grades near legal maximums. It just lopes up. And then I use the tranny for engine braking, it's very effective. Highway cruising, I get a solid 44+ MPG with my foot into it heavy at 80 MPH. It's a hellava tank range at near 850 miles when I'm travelling. So maybe a 250 could do better mileage wise under perfect conditions... but I don't have to screw with DEF fluid or worry about that pricey exhaust system.

Here is a photo of my mileage during the start of a recent trip averaging 75 MPH. Too many construction zones that day.
 

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^^ That, right there, is a great explanation of why I bought my car. You said it well. Watching this thread, and a few others, for maintenance tips.

Here's the Diesel Power Magazine article I had referenced earlier.

http://www.trucktrend.com/cool-trucks/0609dp-2006-mercedes-benz-e320-cdi/

Hold on to your cognac, indeed! :)

It does have the pull of those older V8's, for sure. I can perceive a slight bit of turbo lag, but just a little, not enough to matter at all in even spirited acceleration situations. It doesn't sound like a V8, as the article's authors say that it does ("baby Cummins" would be my sonic description), but its Diesel torque cannot be denied.

Me: man, this car goes up hills really well.
Car: Hill...? What hill? Where?
Wallet at fill-up time: Thank you, Mercedes-Benz!

Fuel mileage for me hasn't been quite 44 mpg, more like 35 mpg, but that was in holiday freeway traffic, and we all know what that's like. Still not bad. Looking forward to taking it on a real road trip across a few fill-ups.

My car is the version without the heated leather seats. No big deal; it's easily enough solved with some aftermarket heaters and a switch. I can feel the very beginnings of suspension looseness, but this suspension has in excess of 140K on it, and it looks to be the original. Still feels pretty decent, so I've probably got a year or two before it really *needs* that work. I'll remember those B6 Bilstein shocks when that time comes (thanks, guys). As with all of my cars, it will get a complete front suspension overhaul during that time.

Unless you just want a new car...as long as it's basically in good shape, better to fix up certain cars and keep driving 'em than to saddle one's self into car payments for the next 5-or-so years. The '05-'06 E320 CDI certainly fits that bill.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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The 7G in E250 BT is geared for economy.
It will do 80 mph at 1800 rpm, what was 8-cylinder range not even 20 years ago.
Anyway, you are restoring your I6 diesel becouse you love it and it is a great hobby IMHO.
I always get good kicks when trolls start commenting mpg.
I have pictures showing 99 mpg in 2005 E320 cdi and I have pictures showing 99 mpg in E250 Bluetec.
That just for the fun. Keep the pictures coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I had to replace the front three injector wires and connectors, which meant taking off the fuel lines (again) and flipping open the wiring harness tray on top of the engine. The front three wires were very crispy with broken insulation from years of heat and their exposure to the black death. I had jury rigged those wires with silicone tape for the short term. I bought new connectors prewired off Ebay with 10" leads and cut and soldered the wires in back in the tray. I used shrink tube with internal adhesive to seal them up. I found some of the thin wall wiring tubing on ebay as well and used some 1/4" which is close to the same size as the factory tubing. And for the record - No, the injector wires have no polarity. Both wires to each injector are the same color and I paid no attention to polarity when I cut and soldered the wires.

I also ordered new plastic glow plug "boots" and installed them. The originals were super brittle from years of heat cycling. #4 literally disintegrated when I pulled it.

I also noted on my last trip that my engine temp was running a bit low by the dash gauge. So I connected and watched the temp with my computer when I was travelling and noted it was running at about 170F, but the spec on the thermostat is 92c (198F). I know from experience that this engine does not like to run low in temp. So I ordered a new thermostat. I'll get that installed this weekend most likely.

I've got most of the engine bay cleaned up now as well. I've hand removed most of the heavy build up where I could. The next step for the engine clean up will be to get under the engine with some engine cleaner/degreaser and use the pressure washer (judiciously, very judiciously). I may have to pull the cooling fan to get good access toward the front/bottom of the engine and engine bay. While the belt still looks pretty good with no signs of cracking, it's been at least 5 years since I've replaced it. That'll be a good time to check the idler/tension pulley as well.
 

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The fuel economy numbers provided by the computer are notoriously unreliable. MPG figures are usually skewed high...with my two CDI's about 10-15% high. Can be re-calibrated with Xentry.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The fuel economy numbers provided by the computer are notoriously unreliable. MPG figures are usually skewed high...with my two CDI's about 10-15% high. Can be re-calibrated with Xentry.
I've estimated mine manually several times by filling the tank, running down the road for 4-5 hours on a trip, filling again and recording the fuel put in the tank and calculating manually. My onboard computer has never been off by more than a couple of tenths of a MPG.
 

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I've estimated mine manually several times by filling the tank, running down the road for 4-5 hours on a trip, filling again and recording the fuel put in the tank and calculating manually. My onboard computer has never been off by more than a couple of tenths of a MPG.
Respectfully, I don't think that method will yield accurate results. Really need a couple of thousand miles to get a true read, to smooth out all the variables.

I really don't think there's any chance that a CDI gets 44 mpg....as much as I wish that were the case.
 

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The 7G in E250 BT is geared for economy.
It will do 80 mph at 1800 rpm, what was 8-cylinder range not even 20 years ago.
Anyway, you are restoring your I6 diesel becouse you love it and it is a great hobby IMHO.
I always get good kicks when trolls start commenting mpg.
I have pictures showing 99 mpg in 2005 E320 cdi and I have pictures showing 99 mpg in E250 Bluetec.
That just for the fun. Keep the pictures coming.
People love to hate the bluetec's. The 250 looks like an amazing platform to me, its the first true luxurious economy car since the W201 190D. Id LOVE to own a GLK250 one of these days

The true fun with fudging economy numbers though is trying to get it as low as possible, which isn't hard to do during harsh Michigan winters. i got 7.5 MPG one day from lots of idling and essentially plowing snow with my car earlier this year. XD
 

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For idler pulley, you might try to replace bearing only.
Should not be difficult for you to locate supplier and when pulley, what is bearing + plastic ring cost $30-40, the bearings cost less than $10.
Maybe not big money saving, but sometimes you have to think about principals.
And if you locate Timken bearing, you might actually upgrade MB supply.
 

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For idler pulley, you might try to replace bearing only.
Should not be difficult for you to locate supplier and when pulley, what is bearing + plastic ring cost $30-40, the bearings cost less than $10.
Maybe not big money saving, but sometimes you have to think about principals.
And if you locate Timken bearing, you might actually upgrade MB supply.
I believe idler pulleys on the om648 are plastic molded AROUND a bearing, meaning the bearing can't be removed. I remember trying to press out the bearings on my old idlers, and there was a flange molded on both sides of the pulley that hold in the bearing.
 

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Those pulleys are something like $4.69 at FCPEuro. This is the OE one, by INA. Despite the HTTP link, the actual part # is 0002020919, and that is shown on the actual page.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-drive-belt-idler-pulley-0002020019luk

It does fit the E320 CDI, and I know that because I put this same pulley on my CDI. It's the same pulley that fits the M112 and M113 engines. Here's the Genuine-MB part for comparison. Same part #, 0002020919.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-drive-belt-idler-pulley-mer-0002020919#fitment
 

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INA is the OE for M-B, so yep. I've replaced the original Genuine-MB pulleys on all of my cars (they were due after 140K miles), and they actually say INA on 'em. Same markings, same numbers.

Same, it turns out, for the belt tensioner. INA is also the OE for M-B for those, so buying INA *is* getting the MB part in this case.

Gotta love that 10x markup for the Three Pointed Star, eh? :)
 

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INA most likely just added plastic flange to the bearing.
Bearings manufacturing is highly normalized and small countries have only 1 plant.
In Germany known are SKF bearings, what seems to be Swedish.
In USA top name is Timken and there is not much between those 2 and lot of Chinese plants.
Than pay attention to OE and OEM descriptions. They look close at first look, but OEM can be rejects from OE.
Quite different quality.
Once again, I would not be surprised if both $4 and $40 pulleys had the same SKF bearings.
But than, judging from high failure rates on idler pulleys, MB could use cheaper supplier in last years.
Idler pulley was the only bearing I replaced on MB ever.
 

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Let me add/subtract from previous content.

I replaced my original tensioner- and it wasn't made by INA as previously stated. Honestly, you can use a discount dealership in the usa and get really close to the same prices except perhaps the idler pulleys. Yes they are both made by ina- but to the same specs? I can tell you that the aftermarket Continental belt is not made to the same specs and doesn't last nearly as long. That's what my repair shop says. Look around there is portland, nebraska, Illinios and a florida dealerships offering deep discounts. You can buy an older copy of the WIS via ebay cheap. Look up your own parts.

Love our W211.026, great car.

Michael
 
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