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Hello,

The PO installed what believe to be eBay headlights (Very poor dispersion of light). So I wanted to tackle a Quad HID Retrofit. I have done a retrofit before (I am not a professional, but I followed a DIY) and it turned out great. I am ready to tackle a quad retrofit, but I am unsure what size can fit.

If anyone has some links or suggestions for Bi-Xenon reflectors that would be great!

I am not afraid to cut into the plastic and use bondo, etc. etc.
 

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Well, for a W211's low-beam position, I used Morimoto's EVOX-R 2.0 HID projector. It's a bi-xenon projector which has the Hella E55 bolt pattern. Just make sure to use good bulbs, like Osram, Philips, or Jahn. Forget about the ones "made in China", and stay away from eBay when you buy bulbs (too many fakes).

For the high-beam position, I haven't yet tried it on a Benz, but I have done HID conversions on other cars (H4/9003-based). There exist projectors that slide right into the light bulb hole in the reflector and have a lock-nut that tightens them in place. I did this to a Honda Civic a year and a half or so ago with very good results, so this may also be an option for the high beam position. I've got to take my E320 CDI headlights apart anyway, so this is actually a serious consideration in my case.

You will need a ballast for each HID. That means two ballasts per headlight assembly, and the one for the high beams will need to be of the error-correcting variety. The reason for that is that, in Mercedes-Benzes, the computer is looking not just for maximum current usage, but also minimum current usage. I don't know why M-B did that, but they did.

Therefore....

If you put an HID (35W) where a halogen (55W) is expected, the computer will throw a code and shut down that particular lamp. There is circuitry that will fool the computer so your lamp stays on, and some ballasts have that circuitry integrated. Hylix's 35W ballasts are known to do this, and they're compact. That last point is nice because you'll have to find somewhere to actually put the ballast; I use Hylix ballasts in the Civic for exactly that reason even though it doesn't need the error-correction like a Benz does.

For your low-beam position, though, I'd go with a Hella Gen 3 ballast. They are a.) OEM for a lot of cars, B.) high quality, and C.) weatherproof. Got 'em in several cars, and in addition to the just-mentioned benefits, bulb warm-up time is excellent. Just remember to get your car programmed for XENON: PRESENT. It's easy enough to do if you have access to a STAR Diagnostic System setup.
 

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@cowboyt

Thanks for the info, that is a great deal of help!
Question: Program the car for Xenon: Present? There is such a thing that I have to program? I have never programmed any car and HID retrofits worked great.
 

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Indeed, there is. Turns out that there's a nice big surge of power right when you turn on HID's, then it settles down in a few seconds to 35W. The HID retrofit kits generally include some circuitry to fool the car's computer into thinking it's close enough to the normal HID power usage curve. I originally did this with the '03 S430, and yes, they do work. The Hylux 2A88 AMP aftermarket ballast also includes the "fool the car" circuitry.

However, I didn't use one of those retrofit kits with the E320 CDI. Remember, I went with Hella Gen 3 ballasts, which are actual OEM ballasts for several manufacturers. Hella Gen 3's, being OEM ballasts, don't have that "fool the car" circuitry, as Hella naturally assumes that their ballasts are going into a car designed from the factory for HID's. So, I did need to program the car's computer for XENON: PRESENT. It's actually very easy to do if you have SDS. I posted a thread showing how to do it; here it is.


Note that when the car is in "XENON: Present" mode, halogens still continue to work just fine! That's right, no flashing. Makes me wonder why M-B put two power-curve settings in there in the first doggone place....
 
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