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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hello all. I have a 2006 C230 bought it not running.. my mistake..
The guy I bought it from has a paper with diagnosis from Mercedes dealer..
It states no crank no start as customer complaint. Their diagnosis is everything is connected properly so they recommend replacing valve body. My question is. Someone told me the reason it won't crank at all but has all electrical working is due to conductor plate. The dealers don't sell just the conductor plate by itself so need to buy valve body with conductor plate!
I know you can buy just plate online but is my car being auto trans a 722.9 or?
And does the no start really be from plate problem?
Any help would be appreciated..
 

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CURRENT: 2011 SL550 FORMER: C300, ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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The conductor plate is the electronic control for the transmission. The TCU is embedded in that part. The TCU is considered a "theft-relevant component" and thus has to be codded with an encrypted firmware that included thee car's VIN. MBZ will only sell it along with the valve body, so it become an expensive repair. Because of the encryption of the VIN, this is also typically a dealer-only job. There are ways to DIY< but you will need some help and a deep understanding of MBZ electronics.

Before spending thousands at the dealer, spend a few hundred dollars and get a tool to read codes from your car's proprietary systems. A generic $25 OBDII scanner won't do this. There are some fairly affordable ($100 or so) tools that will do this such as the Autel DiagLink, iCarsoft (i980, MB-II v 2.0 or v3.0) and the Foxwell n510 Elite. There may be others, too. Just look for ones advertised as reading "all systems" and for Mercedes-Benz. This way, you can read and reset codes for yourself without paying the shop. There are many people in the forums that, given the proper codes, can give you some direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's for reply. Yes I have a Autel for Mercedes. I just can't get car to crank over and wasn't sure if that's related to conductor plate. I found a conductor plate but trying to figure if it's 722.6 or 9
 

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That's for reply. Yes I have a Autel for Mercedes. I just can't get car to crank over and wasn't sure if that's related to conductor plate. I found a conductor plate but trying to figure if it's 722.6 or 9
Your 2006 C230 should have the 722.9 7-speed transmission.

Did you scan for codes with your Autel?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
This is the paper from dealer. The guy I bought it from said they told him it was valve body conductor plate that was keeping car from cranking over. Said dealer doesn't sell conductor plate separate.
Handwriting Font Material property Automotive tire Tree

Is the neutral safety switch on conductor plate?.I figured it would be on side of trans ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The codes I have according to my Autel: U0101 lost com to TCM
P2176: throttle actuator controll.
System idle position not learned.
P0560: system Voltage.
When I put key in and turn ignition to on position. All electrical works. But turning key to start I get nothing and accessories go dim.Battery Vs are at 12.7
 

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As I understand it, the engine does not "crank", meaning that the starter does not rotate the flywheel? If so, that has nothing to do with the TCU (contained in the conductor plate). In fact, I don't think that TCU issues would prevent the engine from firing and running. The TCU in my former CLK550 went out and would not communicate and the engine still started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Thanks for that!
So why when the battery is at 12.7 would car not turn over? I have power to everything acc... Could it be the NSS or the starter? Here's the paper that dealership gave me. I'll post it here.. so then this doesn't have anything to do with car starting?
Handwriting Font Material property Automotive tire Tree
 

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Thanks for that!
So why when the battery is at 12.7 would car not turn over? I have power to everything acc... Could it be the NSS or the starter? Here's the paper that dealership gave me. I'll post it here.. so then this doesn't have anything to do with car starting?
Forgive me if I'm totally wrong and wasting your time. Reading the dealer's notes, I seem to see that the no crank is caused by the car thinking the transmission is not in the "Park" position. The sensor is not detecting the correct shifter position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Right! But does that have anything to do with conductor or plate? Or valve body? Or lost programing?
Dealer says replace valve body?
There is no electric on valve just conductor plate. What sensor would it be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Forgive me if I'm totally wrong and wasting your time. Reading the dealer's notes, I seem to see that the no crank is caused by the car thinking the transmission is not in the "Park" position. The sensor is not detecting the correct shifter position.
Thanks for reply. And no not waisting my time. All answers appreciated!
I replied
 

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Right! But does that have anything to do with conductor or plate? Or valve body? Or lost programing?
Dealer says replace valve body?
There is no electric on valve just conductor plate. What sensor would it be?
The dealer may just be guessing it's the valve body. Normally if it's a cheap and easy fix, it wouldn't be a bad guess to try to work on first.
You also mentioned a fault code related to voltage. Even though you said you saw the voltage as 12.7, there's also the possibility that when a battery is old, it might show the correct voltage briefly. When there's a large current draw on the battery, e.g. when trying to crank and start the car, the voltage will drop drastically. If it's easy to attach a jumper or use a known good battery, it might be worth a try.
 

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Is the battery new? 12.7 volts is a little unusual high for a used battery unless the voltage was taken after the battery was recharged. Maybe start with the basic and have battery load tested after recharging again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The dealer may just be guessing it's the valve body. Normally if it's a cheap and easy fix, it wouldn't be a bad guess to try to work on first.
You also mentioned a fault code related to voltage. Even though you said you saw the voltage as 12.7, there's also the possibility that when a battery is old, it might show the correct voltage briefly. When there's a large current draw on the battery, e.g. when trying to crank and start the car, the voltage will drop drastically. If it's easy to attach a jumper or use a known good battery, it might be worth a try.
Yes I had my battery charger on battery set at 40 amp rapid charge when I tried to start car.. Battery was very low when I bought car and I had to charge it.
While I had Ign on I moved shifter and what it said on dash matched what it said on shifter...like I said previous.I tried starting car in park and neutral..no crank..
 
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