I had the engine mounts replaced a couple of years ago and it required removal of the engine. It is a big job. Done by my independent mechanic. I think it required 18 hours of labour.

 

Mounts

They are tricky to get in and out, unless you have the right tools and a lift. I paid 500.00 to have both motor mounts replaced. It took about 2 hours. I did the tranny mount myself. Find a good indie in your area. You can do it yourself, but you have to lift the motor about 3-4 inches. the heat shields pose a problem without the right tools, it's an 8 hour job by yourself. plus I didn't like the idea of being under the car on jack stands for that long.

 

They are tricky to get in and out, unless you have the right tools and a lift. I paid 500.00 to have both motor mounts replaced. It took about 2 hours. I did the tranny mount myself. Find a good indie in your area. You can do it yourself, but you have to lift the motor about 3-4 inches. the heat shields pose a problem without the right tools, it's an 8 hour job by yourself. plus I didn't like the idea of being under the car on jack stands for that long.

I have a lift and the proper tools, just trying to get an idea what's involved.

 

encyclopedia

there is a write up somewhere. I read it but I dont remember where. check the encyclopedia portion or just google it and it will inevitably re-direct you to a post on this site. or MB world.org

 

Look at this:

Hope it helps.

 

To continue from Sarb213

Okay all, Just looked up the instructions from the WIS and what it boils down to is if you have the older Version "A" Motor Mount then you have to pull the motor to replace the whole mounting assembly. If you are lucky enough to have the newer version "B" motor mount then you have to remove the exhaust system, detach the lower motor mount bolts, raise the motor with a lift and then change out the mounts.

Follow along in the instructions and it will become clear what a big job this is if you have to pull the motor.

(Hope someone can figure out how to shortcut this job.)

Good Luck and post back your success story,

Bob

 

Bob, thanks that's what I'm looking for. In the exhaust removal procedure it references WIS AR46.10-p-8001 to disconnect steering coupling. I assume this the steering rack. Would you please post that WIS? Thanks in advance

 

Thanks, Sarb213 and mercy-me - straight to the Encyclopedia!

 

X2!

 

As requested, see attachments.

Bob

 

Sorry to revive an old thread, but does the above information also apply to an 2006 S65? My VIN is WDBNG79J56A477014 and I believe I'll need to replace the engine mounts soon. At 55k miles, driver side is leaking. Passenger side is probably on its way out as well.

I'd like to know what type mount my S65 has. Hopefully it's type B as I'll be able to do that myself with an engine hoist. If type A, then I'm screwed.

 

Out of my wheel house with V-12's ... but.. you may be able to see if you have A or B version. the A version has the heat shield on top of the engine support. The B version has the heat shield below the engine support and the engine support has a much wider "footprint" on motor mount end.

If engine bay is entirely too packed to see anything even close to the mounts, then obviously this is its useless info and may be cheerfully ignored.

 

Thanks for the tip Richard. I'll check it out with a flashlight over the weekend. Hoping it's type B. Out of curiosity, would you or anyone else happen to know if the type A mounts were phased out after a particular year and all vehicles thereafter used type B mounts? Or, were they used randomly/interchangeably throughout the whole W220 production cycle?

 

If only Richard. The only way to tell appears to be, get under the car and check. For version B you should be able to see the bolt (2a) on the outside/inside of the mount itself.

 

I'm going to jack up the car and put her stands this weekend to take care of some other stuff anyway, so that should give me a good opportunity to check the mount type.

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I read sometime ago here (or there) that an el cheapo way that works for leaking engine mounts is to
a) lift up the engine lightly - without lifting up the car
b) inject construction silicone into the mount
c) let it cure for quit a while

Might be worth looking into!

 

Apparently the other way to do it is to pull the subframe off. The shop to which I'm taking my car for this service tells me that's how they do it. This is the same shop that did my coil-spring conversion and some other things, and they specialize in European cars, so this should go pretty well.

 

My shop did not have to pull the subframe to get to the mounts. They just had to move the steering rack out of the way. That's why it only took them about 3 hours to replace both sides.

As for the injection of polyurethane into old mounts, that's fine if the mount bodies aren't torn. If they are torn in half like my driver's side mount, this won't work and you'll just have you replace the entire unit.

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