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1995 E 300 DIESEL
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Discussion Starter #22
Noted. Thanks. I purchased a 5 pack of 4.7k, .5 watt resistors. Will be fixing the flaps permanently open-manifold replacement is too much work for this tired, old back to do . I think that it will work. MUCH appreciation.
 

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1995 E 300 DIESEL
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Discussion Starter #23
OK, UPDATE: We (my diesel mechanics and I) disconnected the swirl flap motor connector, made a fuse-like insert using the 4.7k Ohm resistor soldered to two metal contacts, securely fastened the resistor to the contacts to make a unit, plugged it in and then wired the swirl flaps open. We cleared the code and got the "Check Engine" to go away. The car runs well and fast and seems to get better mileage. The ONLY thing I notice is that it will hold off downshifting till the throttle is tipped in more than before, AND when the car slows, downshifts are held off till very low RPMs when slowing. The car has MORE than enough power for the turbo to speed the car up on the highway without downshifting (reminds me of my chipped1995.5 Audi S6) but will downshift if I push the throttle more fully. If this is just a normal consequence of the change I made, no problem. If it is in some way a burden on the tranny, then I will reverse it and go for the manifold. It has NOT gone in to Limp Mode since we did this alteration, whereas it used to do it as many as 5 or 6 times per hour.
Net, net: I'm thrilled-but a little curious. Opinions please. AND THANKS for the Guidance !
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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Very minor. It won't hurt or otherwise damage the transmission. It can take it.

If you're that concerned, do the transmission reset for the ECU to relearn the shifting point.

Otherwise I'd ignore and keep driving, the TCM will eventually relearn anyway.
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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^This. Reset the ECU and check & adjust transmission adaptatio values.

I must say though that you really should consider getting the Euro manifold. IIRC, the swirl flaps are made of plastic and if they are anything like BMW they will become brittle and break up causing instant fatal engine damage.

Also, you will have better idling and low rpm characteristics with the Euro manifold. The disconnected swirl flaps on the US manifold sort of create a air blockage.
 

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1995 E 300 DIESEL
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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks. A key purpose of this exercise was to avoid having to remove the intake manifold, and it seems that has been accomplished. There was/is no rough idle and the car runs fine at all RPM levels. I do believe the ECU reset (to what values?) and the transmission adaptation values are excellent suggestions and I'm going to do them. Thanks for your input, it is appreciated. Also, what does "IIRC" mean?
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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IIRC = If I Recall Correctly.

Just be aware that leaving the swirl flaps (even if disconnected) means the bomb is still not defused hence the suggestion for the Euro manifold swap.

I'd do the intake swap just for peace of mind if nothing else. It's a one time deal that any reasonable competent indy MB mechanic can accomplish.
 

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1995 E 300 DIESEL
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Discussion Starter #28
Noted. When you say "Reset the ECU" do you mean to a new set of values or to original default values-or something else? I guess transmission upshift/downshift/gear-hold values are variable, if I understand you correctly.
PS I see you have a 95 E300. FYI: That's the car I had before this one. It rode more smoothly, had far more comfortable seats and a much more powerful air conditioner than this '95 E320 CDI, although the CDI is a rocket sled next to the E300D.
 

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Reset ECU = clear codes and reset to stock values.

Your transmission is electronic and thus "learns" and adjusts to your driving behavior based on conditions, engine feedback, etc.

Yep. Still have the '95 E300D. Mine is the very last W124 (by vin#) imported into the USA and never going to sell it. It has just turned 100K. I'm probably going to be buried in it. When running properly, the '95 is not slow. I've had it keep up with a S430 V8 gasser even off the line.
 

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1995 E 300 DIESEL
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Discussion Starter #31
Reset ECU = clear codes and reset to stock values.

Your transmission is electronic and thus "learns" and adjusts to your driving behavior based on conditions, engine feedback, etc.

Yep. Still have the '95 E300D. Mine is the very last W124 (by vin#) imported into the USA and never going to sell it. It has just turned 100K. I'm probably going to be buried in it. When running properly, the '95 is not slow. I've had it keep up with a S430 V8 gasser even off the line.
I never had a problem keeping up with 80 mph traffic on California Freeways with my E300D.

Strangest thing on my E320CDI: CEL comes on, stays on for a few hours, then goes off! I was under the impression that once on, it stayed that way until it was reset. Yes, the bulb is good; comes on at start.

Any opinions?
 

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Run a scanner / analyzer, how would you diagnose if you do not know the code / codes that gererate the CEL?

Regards

Joseph~

"Equipment should never be a excuse for poor performance. If you are going to be a professional your get the correct equipment. Then the only excuse is your ability to perform." Joseph~
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Yes, when I get to my mechanic I will. But was under the impression that CEL, once illuminated, does not go off. Guess we'll see what's up when scanned.
 

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Yes, it is true that once a CEL trips it almost always stays lit. BUT, there is a big exception if the CEL is being tripped for a oxygen sensor(s) or other sensor that is old & worn and in need of replacement.

Due to the way the O2 sensors work, they may fall in/out of spec causing the light to come on and off, and repeat randomly.

In the case of the W124, the O2 has a useful life of about 60K miles and are as done as a Thanksgiving turkey by the time they hit 100K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
This sounds like it fits; the CEL has been coming on and going off for a couple of weeks. We'll see when I get it scanned.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #36
UPDATE: CEL on and off so I took it to an official California inspection station (with the CEL code off) and he "Pre Tested" it: turns out it is the Glow Plug Module code P0670. The inspector said that if I were to bring it in to him with no cel light-even with this code- it would pass inspection. I was overjoyed, until on the ride home (a week after we used the resistor bypass protocol and tied up the swirl flaps in the open position) , it went in to Limp Mode. Let's see how often this takes place. Strange, till he put the code reader on it there were no episodes of Limp Mode.
 

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Glad to hear that the car is working fine and you are able to have it working. It's important to invest in your own car. I like to do that
 

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This is yet another example of why not to take your 15 year old German car to the dealership for repairs. lol
 
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