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Are you referring to a FO or Non-FO bose amp for these w163s?

Many of the members here, including myself, bypassed the FO bose amp completely (under the DS dashboard and way above the brake pedal assembly). We found no need to even add a replacement amp when replacing the old antiquated oem double din unit with a more robust up-to-date bells and whistles double din unit that has all the present day features.
If you like, do a search on the w163 forum on this much discussed topic.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are you referring to a FO or Non-FO bose amp for these w163s?

Many of the members here, including myself, bypassed the FO bose amp completely (under the DS dashboard and way above the brake pedal assembly). We found no need to even add a replacement amp when replacing the old antiquated oem double din unit with a more robust up-to-date bells and whistles double din unit that has all the present day features.
If you like, do a search on the w163 forum on this much discussed topic.
khomer2, The amp referenced here is the factory amp under the dashboard above the brake pedal assembly. I have installed several radios in the W163's. Driving the 2 ohm Bose speakers with a radio/amplifier that was designed for a 4 ohm load does not reproduce the sound quality or amplification that the Bose setup is engineered for. The reason I found this to be a good solution is that you do not have to replace or lose your subwoofer and rear tweeters. If you install an aftermarket radio, I feel you should you replace all components of the system Radio, amp, speakers, and subwoofer. This is a workable solution with good results for hundreds of dollars less than total replacement. Changing speakers in a W163 is easy, 20 minutes. Repairing 4 door panels ie, gluing the clip holders back on and replacing the clips per door is where the time and cost is. Not to mention the cost of a new subwoofer, amp and wiring to power it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What are you trying to do? This link is broken btw.
WE47B1ME, just offering a good solution to replace the factory Bose fiber optic amp to retain sound quality and the subwoofers, when replacing the Radio. Without the cost and labor of totally replacing the entire system.
 

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As khomer said, use the search function. A million people have done it here, him and myself included, by simply replacing the MCS unit and splicing into the amp wiring, thus bypassing it and retaining all 9 Bose speakers being powered by a modern day head unit, with the option of adding an addition sub via rca outputs.

I installed the VX7020 on my truck for 4 years and never had any issues.

Sent from my BlackBerry Key2 using Tapatalk
 

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I ordered a 2-din unit with Android 9. Found and removed the Bose-Amp and cut the wireclips and routed the cable up to the new unit. I then put connectors in the connector so that it still is plug and play if I ever want to restore to original. Easy! Connected the two trunk speakers inline with rear. Connected the Subwoofer to front speakers. Sounds OK. Could use an amplifier but only if I really want it LOUD, there is still enugh umph to make the windows shake..Ordered the Connect2 Facia-plate but ended up only usind the 2-din frame and the original plastic-cover that came with the stereo. I´m happy!


Too bad on the germany-made Nokia 6310i though, now I cant play Snake 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry for any confusion this thread has caused. I was simply offering a good quality solution that sounds better than OK. I know there are no issues wiring a 4 ohm radio/amp to 2 ohm speakers. I have installed thousands not hundreds of radios since 1982. I have installed at least 40 radio's in the W163 and have replaced the entire system, radio, amp, subwoofers, and CD changers many times. Although this setup may seem complicated, I assure you the sound quality and amount of time it takes to install it is far superior than just a radio swap and a speaker change. I posted it for anyone who wanted better than OK sound without the cost or labor involved in a total replacement project.
 

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Sorry for any confusion this thread has caused. I was simply offering a good quality solution that sounds better than OK. I know there are no issues wiring a 4 ohm radio/amp to 2 ohm speakers. I have installed thousands not hundreds of radios since 1982. I have installed at least 40 radio's in the W163 and have replaced the entire system, radio, amp, subwoofers, and CD changers many times. Although this setup may seem complicated, I assure you the sound quality and amount of time it takes to install it is far superior than just a radio swap and a speaker change. I posted it for anyone who wanted better than OK sound without the cost or labor involved in a total replacement project.
No real confusion. (just clarifying a few minor things)
The end result is still the same - swapping in a 4-ohm present-date fully featured double din, bypassing the FO oem amp under the dashboard, as well as bypassing the "not-a-real subwoofer by definition" (under the DS seat) and still being able to utilize the oem speaker setup in these w163s.

FO bypass - amp interior has since been gutted - just the amp shell reinstalled using its oem connectors for the oem speakers.

2602440
 

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I am curious to see if anyone else has tried this and if their results were positive?

Sorry for any confusion this thread has caused. I was simply offering a good quality solution that sounds better than OK. I know there are no issues wiring a 4 ohm radio/amp to 2 ohm speakers. I have installed thousands not hundreds of radios since 1982. I have installed at least 40 radio's in the W163 and have replaced the entire system, radio, amp, subwoofers, and CD changers many times. Although this setup may seem complicated, I assure you the sound quality and amount of time it takes to install it is far superior than just a radio swap and a speaker change. I posted it for anyone who wanted better than OK sound without the cost or labor involved in a total replacement project.
When doing this which backward amp do you use (probably from a 1999 0r 1998)?

Also do you have a wiring diagram? In my case the cars are a 2003 and 2004 ml.

Lastly on an earlier amp that you use what are the inputs to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wallyo, thank you for your interest.

When doing this which backward amp do you use (probably from a 1999 0r 1998)?

I have used the amps from 1998 to 2001. None of the W163’s I owned pre facelift had a Fiber Optic input amp.


Also do you have a wiring diagram? In my case the cars are a 2003 and 2004 ml.

There are many posts on the wiring of the radio harness. Thanks to the help of others, I have been able to acquire my information. I do not wish to discredit their work, please search other posts for more radio wiring information. If you are unable to find what you need please let me know.

Lastly on an earlier amp that you use what are the inputs to it?

Here is a copy of a 2001 radio and amp wiring diagram. If you look closely to the photos I posted you can see my notes on the on the sheet the harness is sitting on. The inputs are labeled. You will need to connect the amp remote on wire to your radio. You can get your power and ground from the vehicle harness. The subwoofers in the post facelift vehicles are paralleled together, (check your polarity when connecting, reversing the wiring will place the subwoofers 180 degrees out of phase). Some may argue that the end result is the same (they work), but the sound will be greatly enhanced. This opens a channel of the amp to be used for the rear tweeters. The rear tweeters are not stereo, they to are paralleled together.

CCF08302019_00000.jpg
 

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Wallyo, thank you for your interest.

When doing this which backward amp do you use (probably from a 1999 0r 1998)?

I have used the amps from 1998 to 2001. None of the W163’s I owned pre facelift had a Fiber Optic input amp.
Thanks for your quick response. You stated you have never done this with a fiber optic amp if not why and when did you?

What I am scheming in my head is similar to what your describing but going from a d2b fiber optic amp to a non fiber optic amp. I do not like cutting out wiring harness connectors from cars I prefer to leave them intact so in a future owner wants to go back to factory it would not be an issue.

so my thinking is this:

Remove fiber optic amp and head unit shelve them.

Get a working non fiber optic bose amp with part of the wire harness from a pick apart car (98-99).

Get a non working or working d2b fiber optic donor amp for the harness socket only.

Use the socket from the d2b amp and the harness (98,99) to build an adapter.

Install earlier amp and new double din apple play unit in the 04 ML using home made adapter.

I have checked the earlier amps have a different socket then the optic amps.

There was one company that made a d2b analog to fiber optic adapter but it is no longer made.

I know it sounds like a lot of work sourcing and soldering. But I do not wish to change speakers and do not wish to cut the existing harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wallyo, I am unsure of your question.

You stated you have never done this with a fiber optic amp if not why and when did you?

What you are wanting to do is exactly what I did. I replaced the Fiber Optic amp with an older year model amp that accepted common radio power. I have used a Kenwood DDX 26BT and an Alpine iLX-W650 with Apple Car Play.

I wrote this to article to show an alternative to replacing the stock speakers and retain quality sound.

The first install I did cut the factory harness.

The second time I did it I cut the connector out of the amp (plug donor).
 

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Wallyo, I am unsure of your question.

You stated you have never done this with a fiber optic amp if not why and when did you?

What you are wanting to do is exactly what I did. I replaced the Fiber Optic amp with an older year model amp that accepted common radio power. I have used a Kenwood DDX 26BT and an Alpine iLX-W650 with Apple Car Play.

I wrote this to article to show an alternative to replacing the stock speakers and retain quality sound.

The first install I did cut the factory harness.

The second time I did it I cut the connector out of the amp (plug donor).
Sorry got a little confused hear and maybe you can shed some light I took where you posted

"None of the W163’s I owned pre facelift had a Fiber Optic input amp."

to mean you never went from a fiber optic to as you say common radio power. But it sounds like you may of done it for someone else but not a car you owned.
?

So we acquired a donor fiber optic 2003 amp and a 2001 common amp this weekend been pouring over both wiring diagrams some items are a bit confusing. the 2001 has 4 channels and woofer the 2003 has 6 Chanel and woofer. How do those very rear speakers get wired? Also 2001 has 4 wires to woofer the 2003 2 wires to the woofer

Also on an 2003 one wire (pink) runs to the telephone interface guessing that gets dropped.

Then there is a white, brown and something called an NCA wires that go to a sound amp. Mircophone amp?

Lastly a red to power always on. I see no key off no power, and remote on wire as on the 2001 amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wallyo, I should have stated:

"None of the W163’s I owned pre facelift had a Fiber Optic input amp."

All the ML's I owned (worked on) from 1998 to 2001 (pre-facelift) were all common radio input amplifiers.



So we acquired a donor fiber optic 2003 amp and a 2001 common amp this weekend been pouring over both wiring diagrams some items are a bit confusing. the 2001 has 4 channels and woofer the 2003 has 6 Chanel and woofer. How do those very rear speakers get wired? Also 2001 has 4 wires to woofer the 2003 2 wires to the woofer


The subwoofers in the post facelift vehicles (2002 thru 2005) are paralleled together, (check your polarity when connecting, reversing the wiring will place the subwoofers 180 degrees out of phase). Some may argue that the end result is the same (they work), but the sound will be greatly enhanced. This opens a channel of the amp to be used for the rear tweeters. The rear tweeters are not stereo, they to are paralleled together.

Both amps have 6 Channels.

The subwoofers (2 of them in the box under the drivers seat) are wired together (paralleled) on channel 5

The rear tweeters are then wired to channel 6

Also on an 2003 one wire (pink) runs to the telephone interface guessing that gets dropped.

Correct

Then there is a white, brown and something called an NCA wires that go to a sound amp. Mircophone amp?

Drop these also. They connect to the Tele-Aid system. The system no longer works in the USA.

Lastly a red to power always on. I see no key off no power, and remote on wire as on the 2001 amp.

The Fiber Optic amp is remotely switched on by the optical signal.


The first time I did this I did it on a 2002 ML500.

The second time was on a 2005 ML500.

2603103
 

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Thanks so much the 350 is the car my daughter uses, so she is researching units. I get it now just did not click with me that her 2004 has 2 wires going to the sub not four like a 2001. So just run 2 of the 4 to the sub and the other 2 to the rear tweeters, guess there is not a cross over built into the amp to worry about, and woofer and tweeters will get the correct signal.

Some folks have said that 02-04 has one sub speaker but the diagram says there are 2. You have really helped a lot thanks. But don't be surprise if I come up with some other questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
wallyo, feel free to contact me if you need any more assistance.

I am sure you will like the results of your project.

I believe it is a single sub with a dual voice coil. ( I have been saying 2 subs - that is probably incorrect. )

Once you have it connected and tested.

Try swapping the sub-woofer wiring at the amp to verify the correct phase of the sub. It will make a huge sound quality difference that you will notice immediately.


Please post your results.
 
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