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2001 ML430 Durability

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6.7K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  MisterT  
#1 ·
At just over 120,000 (a mileage I've always considered low for a MB), I'm wondering what kind of durability I can expect. Am I likely to face any major repairs over the next 40-60K miles?

Of course anything is possible but what is common? We are not hard on the car, no lead-foot driving or serious off-roading. Though we do go on some rather rough roads that a phony SUV like the GLC or Tesla X/Y can't handle.

We've had several minor issues that have all been resolved (power window control panel, hood struts, and so forth). The dealer performs the more difficult maintenance such as spark plugs, ATF fluid and brakes (I'm too old to lift the 31" tires back on) and we've been living without the fuel gauge for almost 15 years by just using the trip odometer.

Regards,
Bill
 
#2 ·
At just over 120,000 (a mileage I've always considered low for a MB), I'm wondering what kind of durability I can expect. Am I likely to face any major repairs over the next 40-60K miles?

Of course anything is possible but what is common? We are not hard on the car, no lead-foot driving or serious off-roading. Though we do go on some rather rough roads that a phony SUV like the GLC or Tesla X/Y can't handle.

We've had several minor issues that have all been resolved (power window control panel, hood struts, and so forth). The dealer performs the more difficult maintenance such as spark plugs, ATF fluid and brakes (I'm too old to lift the 31" tires back on) and we've been living without the fuel gauge for almost 15 years by just using the trip odometer.

Regards,
Bill
I'd be a bit less gentle with it - the old ML's seem to thrive with harder use! It is the cars that have had the least use that seem to have computer problems, which are the real killer! Otherwise it might be worth having the transmission oil changed etc soon. That seems to have issues if left until it goes wrong at 150k+ miles. What's wrong with fixing the fuel gauge? Mind you, I've had lots of glitches I have adapted to that no one else would!
 
#3 ·
#4 ·
I believe the main issue that assures a long life of your W163 is to address issues as they appear. They are incredibly well built but once a problem arises, it needs to be addressed and not ignored. Fluids should be changed on a regular basis and lubrication of wear items is required.
Basically, if you are happy with your ML, they will definitely go the distance if they are properly maintained. You may want to set aside some funds to address wear items as they occur. As Khomer2 stated above, they ARE twenty years old, but parts are readily available and, if you can do some basic servicing and replacement of wear items, they can go the distance.

The engines are extremely well built....of course suspension, braking, cooling, electronics will pop up from time to time.... but the frame, construction, design are all top notch and , of course , depending on your environment, RUST can lead to the demise of any vehicle.

Basically it comes down to a personal decision. Personally, I LIKED the W163's from the get-go , but I have grown to LOVE the design over the years for all of the attributes. Todays designs are far more complicated and expensive to maintain...read they break easily !

I am a firm supporter of the KISS principle.....KEEP IT SIMPLE, STUPID ...........
 
#5 ·
-Change filters and fluids often (motor oil, power steering, transmission, brake fluid, coolant from time to time) Parts wear less with less friction
-Watch for leaks (power steering, valve covers, 13 pin transmission connector, coolant, differentials, etc.)
-Use a quality fuel, and only recommended fluids
-engage 4-wheel low range every few months (so you know it works when you need it)
-watch for hoses cracking - best just to replace all of these at some point to avoid failures
-keep undercarriage clean and motor compartment clean so you can see new issues that may develop
-Make sure you have a spare key and use it from time to time (someday the fobs may die)
-Check for wiring chaffing on wire loom under abs module, by front wheel well.

-Plan on motor mounts, transmission mounts, and auxiliary water heater electric motor.
-Plan on drive belt kit with tensioner and idler pulleys.

Enjoy the drive- there will always be something that will need attention, but with PM's you can stay ahead of being left on the side of the road stranded.

At 178,000 miles, I'm on same water pump, alternator, AC compressor, and power steering pump. (keeping the fluids changed and fingers crossed)
 
#6 ·
I agree with all the comments. I have an 01 ML430 that I bought in 2004. She has 189k miles on it and I refuse to part with her. I did a deep dive major service on her last winter after an accident where I bought it back from the insurance company and rebuilt it. The accident caused no mechanical damage (or frame) other than the radiator and front end body work. While I had the front clip off of it I did a major service. I rebuilt the alternator, replaced the original water pump, thermostat, hoses, and valve cover gaskets (just because). Did plugs, wires, vacuum hoses and everything else I could find that might be wearing.

Interior is still fantastic, everything works, looks great and drives awesome. I would not hesitate to keep your rig, service the crap out of it and drive it like it was designed to be driven. Do NOT neglect servicing the transmission. I service mine every 3-4 years no matter the mileage. If you are a heretic like I am, you can run Valvoline MaxLife ATF and it cuts the price down significantly and is a very qualified fluid that meets the specs.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for all the useful advice. Most of these items are checked by the dealer at the regular service interval, first MB dealer I've used in almost 50 years that wasn't either an idiot or a crook. So most maintenance items, like ATF, get taken care of on a regular basis. One concern is that the upcoming service will cost more than the car is worth financially and my wife has a big problem with that.

BTW, my just sold 2014 GLK250 had a major failure at least every 2,000 miles that that's another story.
 
#8 ·
I saw your other post where you want to keep the 163 for the high altitude steep grades. My suggestion: try to test drive a newer car, even without the low range, to see how it handles the grade. If nothing passes muster, stick with the 163.
I would mention these points as probable repair items with age: conductor plate, transmission connector leak, and driveshaft u-joints. Some people have had to replace the transfer case as well. Either way, I think you’re financially better off fixing these very infrequent items than going new. Of course, it may be your wife’s way of saying the 163 is long in the tooth and she’s tired of it.
 
#10 ·
Newer car, just too expensive. The ML430 is our last Benz and we would like to keep it another 10 years. Have had no problems keeping previous models for well over 200K models except for the dysfunctional climate control on the 81 and 84 300D which no dealer could fix.
As for your w123s, post your issues over on the w123 chassis forum.
You can get some assistance over there, from the good members, if you need it. :)

w163 - there's good support from the members here.

Keep us all posted on your suv.
 
#13 ·
I have the same year and model, for over a year now. I came to this group for support because of wetness in the cabin, a common trait with either sunroof drain clogging or misalignment of one of the draining tubes elsewhere. (I acquired it from a dealer and thought it was their detailing that did that.) I looked past that and kept my ML, and it has never failed me. It is easily the most comfortable and reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned. It’s well suited to my driving characteristics and my lifestyle. There are things I haven’t gotten to and will on my own time and budget but this truck just keeps on going! I focus on quality parts, premium fuel, replacing/topping fluids and I stick with Mobil-1 motor oil. I just turned over 199k and this beast roars stronger day by day!