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2001 ML320 Remove Rear Seats Plastic Trim without breaking

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Searched and did not find any posts on this. Closest was "Seat Stuck Down" in stickies (copied parts image)

I a removing the rear row of seats to replace carpet and want to not damage nor break any of the plastic trim parts figuring out "how" to do it. Those are fragile, and are now aged.

I can see those which are released from top-side, but not the hidden catches. Does it help to release any of the gas-assist cylinders?

Looking specifically for instructions on those (ex 44, 47, 50, ++) which cover the screws and nuts?

A complete WIS would be great. Torques for reattaching would be there as well.

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1998 ML320
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213 Posts
There's not much left after removing the rear seat. Heck while you're in there, change out the fuel filter.;)

You can see the location of the 10 bolts that hold the 60 of the 60/40 seat below (1998). The trim parts come off with the seat. Each side has a simple pop-off cover hiding bolts; those come off with a flat head screw driver gently slid into the slot and prying upwards.

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· Registered
1998 Franken-ML, 2002 ML55
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839 Posts
Searched and did not find any posts on this. Closest was "Seat Stuck Down" in stickies (copied parts image)

I a removing the rear row of seats to replace carpet and want to not damage nor break any of the plastic trim parts figuring out "how" to do it. Those are fragile, and are now aged.

I can see those which are released from top-side, but not the hidden catches. Does it help to release any of the gas-assist cylinders?

Looking specifically for instructions on those (ex 44, 47, 50, ++) which cover the screws and nuts?

A complete WIS would be great. Torques for reattaching would be there as well.
I have yet to figure out how to get that trim out without breaking a tab or two, no matter how careful I am. Best suggestion, either make sure you find all of the tabs and use some really good plastic welding adhesive to reattach them, or get some spare pieces at a junkyard to use as tab sources.
This falls under the category of "Mercedes screwed up when they shifted the seat trim material from polypropylene to ABS in 2000."
 

· Registered
1998 ML320 stock 318,112 miles 2000 ML320 stock 250,994 miles 2000 ML 320 270,224 miles parts car
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955 Posts
You might want to use a heat gun to warm the plastic up so they wont be so brittle.
Be careful as you do not want to melt or warp the plastic parts

C N B
 

· Registered
2001 MB ML320 "Designo" in Bourbon. VIN: 4JGAB54E21A241423 180k a/o Jul2021.
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There's not much left after removing the rear seat. Heck while you're in there, change out the fuel filter.;)

You can see the location of the 10 bolts that hold the 60 of the 60/40 seat below (1998). The trim parts come off with the seat. Each side has a simple pop-off cover hiding bolts; those come off with a flat head screw driver gently slid into the slot and prying upwards.

There's not much left after removing the rear seat. Heck while you're in there, change out the fuel filter.;)

You can see the location of the 10 bolts that hold the 60 of the 60/40 seat below (1998). The trim parts come off with the seat. Each side has a simple pop-off cover hiding bolts; those come off with a flat head screw driver gently slid into the slot and prying upwards.

There's not much left after removing the rear seat. Heck while you're in there, change out the fuel filter.;)

You can see the location of the 10 bolts that hold the 60 of the 60/40 seat below (1998). The trim parts come off with the seat. Each side has a simple pop-off cover hiding bolts; those come off with a flat head screw driver gently slid into the slot and prying upwards.

View attachment 2793270

Fuel Filter? Is access here easier than from fender liner?

That would be a bonus.
 
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